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For an inflatable SUP pump (not so different), I made an adapter with a 12v aux cable and a buck-boost converter to take the 15.5V of the battery and step it down to the 12v that the pump needed. Works fine. In my case, the pump was rated at 100W, so the converter was relatively inexpensive...

While teardrop trailers and brake controllers are an element, they're far from the only thing that won't run with 15.5V as a source. This was just sloppy work on Tesla's part. My problem was solved with a $30 buck-boost voltage converter and a hacked 12v accessory cable, but it shouldn't have...

Most CCS chargers have very short, inflexible cables, often barely long enough to reach a car that's in the assigned spot, much less stretch to a different spot. So while I can see someone pulling the cable from the adapter out of spite, they often won't be able to use it for their car.

Likely. When I leave sentry mode active, the battery drains about that quickly. If you were experiencing temperature extremes (say parked in direct sunlight in Phoenix), the car could be conditioning the interior, and that can cause battery drain.

The pins for brake, signals, etc, are all live, but at 15.5V. I don't think this is likely to disturb the led/incandescent lights on a trailer. It's more delicate things like pumps, compressors and the like that run off the accessory pin and don't have overvoltage protection that might have...

In my case, I would have ordered it anyway, as my primary need for the hitch is for a bike rack. The other items are secondary. Doesn't prevent it from being annoying, though. Only the accessory pin on the connector is disabled. The rest of the "12V" sockets are live, albeit showing 15.5V...

I think it's pretty annoying as well. My MY was ordered long before they started putting LIION batteries in the Y, so the limitation wasn't known when I ordered it. My personal issue isn't the accessory pin, but the higher voltage preventing certain 12V accessories from running properly/at...

You'd need to consider carefully the total wattage needed to power your devices and things like startup surges. If your trailer has a refrigerator with a compressor, a motor start can have a demand surge of 2-3x the steady state consumption. The first one above is only rated for 36W, and the...

Plug in a harness tester, and you'll go into trailer mode. This will set you back around $11. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001GN1L8U?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

Certainly. There are tons of these out there, some cheaper, some more expensive. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001GN1L8U?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

A work around I found is to plug in a trailer plug tester, which puts a small load on the circuit. That (for me) eliminates the messages.

I've just run into this with a 2022 MYLR. We have a SUP inflation pump that show an input voltage protection error when we try to run it off the 12 lighter adapter. It appears we're going to have to get a portable battery to run the pump, rather annoying.

You can remedy that by plugging in a hitch connection tester, putting a minimal load on the circuit. I verified this morning with a 2022 and a $10 tester from Curt.