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"Comfort Suspension" is just a term that seems to have started on forums. It came from Tesla changing the spring and/or damper rates softer after a certain date and can be identified by the parts posted previously. You can not improve the "comfort" of the suspension unless you reduce the spring...

Have a MYP and test drove a RWD. When driving, the new car seems much better put together. Going over sharp bumps the whole car feels more solid and of a higher quality. Suspension is definitely softer than my MYP but it still seems to handle well and long as you’re not being too aggressive with...

You can be in sport mode and use the same amount of torque that you would use in chill. Just press the accelerator less.

This is absolutely not true. You can easily be less efficient in chill mode than in sport/normal by accelerating faster. The only time chill is more efficient is if it’s saving energy keeping the battery cooler or if you can not modulate the throttle properly.

I test drove the new model 3 and it's suspension is much less responsive than my MYP. I suppose that is what many people were looking for fromTesla - more comfortable suspension, but that always comes at the detriment of performance/sharpness unless on a high-end setup. Driving down a back road...

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Pretty sure the noise coming from my car is from play in the differential / drive unit.

Sounds like a normal enough sound for some shocks. It’s the sound of oil going through the shock valves. It can also happen if the is cavitation / air in the shocks.

This thread is for the general discussion of the marketplace listing KW V3 Levelling Coilover kit for Tesla Model Y. Please add to the discussion here.

Have you got these replaced and did it fix the problem?

Sounds like droplinks

I did. I can't hear a section about setting rear suspension to ride height.

Shock mounts are meant to be torqued up when at ride height.

I’ve replaced lower arms and drive shafts and noise is still there. Don’t think it’s the top mounts either. I have that play in my diff too. Maybe someone here without the sound can check for us if their diff is the same?

Try listening to the middle/upright part of the seat. There is a plastic part in there that connects to the headrest rails that cam come loose.

Whats your ride height set to? (measurement from the centre of the wheel to the edge of the wheel arch trim)

Hi. It's the battery cover flexing. Many people have posted about this before. Some have had their battery removed and had insulating foam installed over the flexing metal.

The Original one is 23nm. Thats for the 3x bolts that go into the upper control arm mount.

Not much. The OEM Tesla part is 23nm. Too much and they will snap off. Let us know how you get on with the parts!

Always buy the latest versions with Tesla. They make a huge amount of under the skin changed regularly that never get reported. e.g improved sound proofing/NVH, stamped to casting chassis, updated heat pump versions....

Did you ever replace your drive shafts and did it solve the knocking sound when driving?

From Tesla themselves, their focus is on making as many cars as possible, not profit, but just because they say making profit is not their focus does not mean they will not try their best. The way I see it is they are making as many cars as possible and sending them out as inventory. If they...

Ahaha. I think we may have chatted before? I too have destroyed my brain trying to figure out what this noise is. I have absolutely tried everything I can think of but have given up. It’s good to know you are on a RWD as I’m on a MYP. I thought it might have been related to play in the front...

I think this addresses the worst thing about the Y/3 at the moment, the flexi chassis and excessive NVH. I’d say this thing will drive much better (more comfortable) than the previous gen. To have front suspension geo, bushing and mounting updates, combined with the focus on reducing noise...

I don’t think it is this on mine as I have tried replacing these parts with no effect.

I've got the latest 2023 suspension. Definitely adjusting the correct way and at full soft are noticeably harder than standard. I pushed down on the shocks when they were out of the car to measure speed.

The noise is exactly the same with endlinks disconnected. The only thing I can think of is excessive play in the differential and drive shafts. You can test this by jacking one front wheel up and rotating it back and forth. Mine makes a knocking sound which sounds like excessive play inside the...

100% not related to the roll bar. Disconnected the links and it’s still there. Took a drive in a few other MYP and they all do it. Think it’s related to slack in the gears in the drive unit. Pretty much given up on a resolution.

Hey. Can anyone with a model Y performance help me identify a sound? I have a front end clunk and have literally checked everything I can and can not figure it out. The only thing I can think of is excessive play in the front diff/ drive unit. … so if it is relatively easy for anyone could...

I think you’re best changing the car if you want better suspension. If you don’t want to do this I’d try to find somewhere that sells softer springs than standard. Suspension will always be a compromise on this car unless you’re spending mega $. The harder the springs the harsher the ride, the...

The noise is definitely coming from the front of the car. I wish I could say the same as you. I have a few interior rattles that I’m willing to live with but the front end knocking sound is something else. I have tested two other MYP’s at the same SC and they make the same noise too. All cars...

I’ve had a front end knocking noise from my Tesla Model Y Performance since new. It’s a late 2022 72 UK reg from China. Shortly after getting the car I had Tesla check it out. They said they could hear a noise too. They checked all suspension bolts and said they were torqued to spec and left...

Hey, I got a set of these recently too, but find the ride quality worse than my standard MYP even at full soft setting. I don’t understand how you can feel yours are smoother than the stock MYLR when mine are harder than my standard MYP. Would you mind sharing the part number so I can compare...

Out of interest, what factory did your car come from and when was it delivered? My MYP has a totally different upper control arm design and mounting position.

Did you ever resolve this issue?

Anyone find a solution to this? I’ve tried different front shocks now and the noise is still there. If it is the front half shafts has anyone found a solution? There seems to be a lot of play in the front differential too.

Add 15-20% on top of the energy added to the battery due to inefficiencies in the conversion. I usually think of 1kw per 1%, which is not accurate, but more accurate than 1kw input per 1kw energy added to battery.

I use it every time I drive, but always ready to quickly take over. Does not work on UK B roads as it can not turn sharp enough or see the side of poorly marked roads. I had a loaner model S with FSD and it is useless in UK.

I have to really agree with this. There needs to be a change in the rating for all EV's which is more accurate. Seems easy enough to estiamte. My charger has 'real world' ranges for most EV's that seems to be pretty much spot on.

Good to hear. Glad you’re happy with it!

You specifically paid extra money to have a car with 'performance' suspension but you want as much comfort as possible? 🧐 (you did ask about snarky comments) 😛 Suspension is almost always a compromise unless you have some super fancy active setup. When people speak of performance suspension it...

Your alignment is off. It's mechanical.

So much BS on this thread. Your info seems the best so far. Just add in the adjustment in tue service menu too and you’re sorted.

What special piece of equipment is that? I thought it was just a case of doing a normal alignment then going into the service menu and running through a calibration?

I have pretty good knowledge of shocks and their issues through racing bikes for many years. A possible casue is a fault in manufacturing of the shocks where not enough oil is put into them or not enough gas pressure. When this happens the piston of the shock can move freely for that tiny amount...

That’s not true at all. The spring rates and damper rates will translate exactly into how the suspension will feel.

I don't think he's trying to make it into a MYP, just make it his own and make it look good to his personal taste. No MYP has gold callipers. You could say the same for people who pay extra for Tesla to paint the callipers red and put on a carbon spoiler. (I know they are paying for other things...

Would you be able to let us know the part number of the rear spring? I've checked the parts catalogue and while it say 'performance' for the rear damper, it does not specify a model name to be able to select the correct the rear springs.

Would you mind letting us know what part number your front struts are or what the last letter is. Should be around E or F at the end.

It's normal. It's to stop your headlights dazzling other drivers coming towards you. You probably notice it more because the the rest of the beam can extend further than normal because the headlight design allows for sections of reduced light.