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Hi, I just had the MCU of my 2014 TMS replaced this week, following the appearance of bubbles in the screen. (internal liquid leak in screen). On the way back, the same, my garage door no longer opens. I try to restart, delete my homelink settings. After several attempts, I cannot...

Hi everyone, Just to let you know that everything is working. I traveled 5000 km without any problem. I could not monitor the leak at the drain outlet but coolant level has hardly changed. best regard

On my LDU made in 2019: there is no event hole between the reluctor chamber and the rotor chamber. (Fortunately because to plug it, we still had to find a solution with the LDU on the car. Silicone?) Strange, a few drops of coolant came out of my drain during the first 5 kilometers. Now...

yes if I had one. I would like to look with this (5,5mm) ...

Hi all, I finally decided to drill the purge. Here is my modus operandi: - Start by closing the hole created at the back of the rotor (which had been used for drying) to avoid sending debris inside the rotor. - Send water (no alcohol because the forest may be hot) in the chamber of...

if I understand correctly, it is possible to replace the seats of the first generation with those of the second generation. For the electrical part it is thanks to the adapter. For the mechanical part, are they the same bindings?

Are there compatible versions between them? I have the first generation from 2014 and I want to upgrade my seats (mainly the driver's seat)

I see answers here : https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/threads/can-i-put-gen-4-seats-in-a-2016-model-s.283114/

Hello everyone, The leather on my driver's side seat is very degraded. My Tesla Model S P85 was registered in France in March 2014. The seat is original. Having had the opportunity to drive a more recent TMS, I noticed that the seats had been improved: thicker, more comfortable...

Big news of the day: I reconnected everything (with all the electrical precautions) and the car is running. There are no more errors. My novice DIYer drying (without removing the LDU from the car) worked. But, I drilled into the bottom of the rotor. I hope there are no metal...

the LDU was completely disconnected electrically. The megohmmeter gives the same value at all five measurement points. The value is close to 4 Mohm today when the black wire (COM) of the megohmmeter is connected to the châssis ground. strange, when I reverse the wires (Red + on the...

By the way, thank you for all this information.

Tesla isolation fault diagnostic procedure say : (page 19/23, point 15, third indent) « If either measurement is below 3.5 MOhm, replace the drive unit » I will dry the rotor until I get a value above 3.5Mohm. Little question to those who have been able to test, what was the value of your...

Here is the result of the day with the megohmmeter: 2.2 Mohm. (Picture attached) the value is increased It is the same result between all the points (B+, B-, BUSBAR 1, 2 and 3) and the mass. In view of this value, do I continue drying or do I try to reconnect it?

Attached, the drilling test (gently) from below an aluminum alloy plate. There is just a piece that hangs above. the drilling must be carried out without oil because the steel shavings can circulate along the drill. oil is no good: blocks metal shavings on the drill bit and they are...

if the LDU is on the car: impossible to drill at the very bottom (at 6 o'clock) of the reluctor chamber. therefore => impossible to evacuate the metal shavings: - blocked in the reluctor chamber - dropped at the stator/collector junction. In solution A: the metal...

Hi, Here is some news. The values measured daily with the megohmmeter are still very low. The Needle is close to 0. The values are identical, regardless of the measurement point (B+, B-, 1, 2 or 3 of the BUSBAR). Here are the values measured with a simple multimeter, selector set to...

I removed 4 syringes. 10x4= 40ml of coolant on the back of the rotor. The car is currently raised on the driver's side: I just passed the cotton swab to the lowest of the BUSBAR (3 holes in the center of the LDU): No humidity and no blue color. I put the cotton swab at the lowest in...

Hi, I am trying a (provisional) solution that is accessible to me. I am a beginner handyman. I attach the photos. The goal is to dry out the rotor and stator, without removing the LDU. I leave the radiant heater and the vacuum (smoke pen shows airflow) cleaner on for 4 or 5 days. If the...

Would there be any feedback on: approximately how much time can elapse between the moment the seal leaks (coolant appears on the speed sensor) and the electrical insulation fault (alerts on the dashboard) ?

Salut à tous, Voilà, je possède une Tesla Model S P85 de 2014. Mon LDU (le moteur) est en défaut d’isolement. C’est déjà le 3 ème LDU qui lâche . Mais, cette fois, il n’est plus garantie. Je recherche donc une alternative. Tesla propose uniquement un remplacement standard du LDU complet...

Salut, Pour ma part, je recherche actuellement un réparateur des composants interne du moteur (LDU). Lors de mes recherches j’ai pu voir quelque réparateur pour la batterie : electrifyeurope (près de Anvers, en Belgique) Carelife (au Luxembourg)

I charged the 12v battery. (it was at 4.30vdc) the handles now work with the 12v charger. but not the on-board computer. flashing door lights. how to turn on the on-board computer again? (the goal is to unlock the rear wheels and lift the suspensions)

I took the speed sensor apart. There is coolant. I think there is the internal LDU seal is leaking. The Tesla garage does not know this test.

Thanks. I salute your experience and your desire to pass it on. I continue to immerse myself in it and I am actively looking for a mechanic, near me, who can help me carry out your operations. I have some additional information: - The car was registered in March 2014. (First registration) -...

if someone here is used to repairing LDU with an insulation fault, if it is a breakdown (and not from coolant or humidity): what needs to be replaced inside, most often? electronics? motor windings?

I enclose the invoice for the replacement of the HV cables. The technician opened the inspection hatch in the middle: it's dry. The technician says that the water may not have reached the middle. I'm bringing the vehicle home tomorrow.

I'm also surprised that water is able to fit inside. Just by the joints of the HV cables? No, there was no flooding or submersion. There is just the current winter rain here. There is a slight corrosion on each side of my O-rings. Not big. Not as big as the Gtech example (in post #9)

I'm getting out of the garage right now. The technician confirms that it was water that came out. Not coolant. I passed a cotton swab through the B+B penetration. There is no color (blue). I asked the tech to open the inspection hatch in the center of the LDU and contact me to let me...

thank you, you found me a repairman for the LDU in Europe. But, YouTube says it's in Ukraine. Unfortunately, this is not the right time to go there.

Yes, I look at quotes in the Tesla app on my iPhone. I just looked in the Files app on my iPhone but there is nothing. I think you have to import them. Fortunately, I had made a screen print of the first initial total amount. I will pass the original total amount to Tesla and it is up to...

Thank you for the feedback. I'm going back to the Tesla garage on Monday morning. I will then send you the requested information. I will check too if it was rainwater or coolant (blue). I am looking for who could repair my LDU but in Europe it seems difficult to find.

discussion is her : https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/threads/tms-p85-motor-humidity-high-voltage-câbles-seal-leak-error-gtw_w176.290861/

Hi, I am impressed by your achievements and your ideas, well done. I allow myself to write to you here to have your opinion. I created a discussion thread because my engine block ( ASY,P-TRAIN,SPORT, LARGE DU (1002633-01-T)is wet, so there is an insulation fault. Tesla tells me that it...

The vehicle was still fully guaranteed (initial warranty of 8 years for new vehicles) when Tesla changed the engine 2 years ago. this engine replacement was therefore free of charge. But, when this happens, the parts changed free of charge are not guaranteed longer than the initial 8-year...

Thank you for your interest. If I dry it and the megohmmeter (Megger) reads infinity after drying: that indicates that the problem was due to humidity. Why would there be a fire hazard please ? do you think corrosion ? but I think that : if there is corrosion, the default will remain visible...

Hello everyone, Here is my problem: 26/12: my Tesla model S gave me error messages: GTW_w018 and w157: reduced electrical power; GTW_w174 and w177: provide battery replacement based on voltage (12v); regenerative braking off; GTW_w017 reduced power. But she continued to drive. Then on...