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0 toe is what is recommended. err on the side of toe in. Adjust the toe eccentric out to about 3/4 of the way as a first try. Camber arms and the first gen suspension do require toe adjustment after installation. refresh palladium kits do not require alignment if toe is within spec before...

The Macsboost kit saves time, aggravation, money and gets you back on the road quickly with a properly engineered solution and with product support should you need any.

The palladium refresh kit includes shims and instructions to correct toe such that no alignment service is required. Install and drive. If you have in spec toe before, you will have the same in spec toe after. The refresh design lends itself to correct the problem at a lower cost and with...

Placing the car in very high, before install will make this easier when doing one side at a time. The sway bar is what fights you in this situation. The instructions have been updated. Thanks!

ideal would be straight or 0 all the time. The reality is the tires are rubber, the bushings are rubber, metal bends (though may not seem much) when forces are applied. Thus initial toe is sometimes compensating statically for what you see dynamically. Generally you want straight to just a...

the top of the rear tires will be about 1/2" out further than stock. It is a big change.

For summer tires, I can highly recommend falken 510. Theyve been great. I would also recommend installing the rears inside out. It will help with wear.

My x plaid came with 220 tread wear Michelin 20” summer tires. It will go 165mph no problem. Being significantly lighter than 22s they will undoubtably be faster in a straight line. It does have too much camber in low , so you should install a palladium camber kit for better traction/tire...

Assuming your car has good toe when you take delivery you shouldn’t need an extra alignment visit. Install and enjoy more usable grip and better tire wear. An alignment visit won’t hurt, just more hassle and expense.

At 4k it is hard to tell It is an illusion. You will be their shortly

less camber from the stock setup in low will certainly help braking. The limit is the rubber on the road, not the brakes. Abs kicking in is by definition exactly that. Overheated brakes have less stopping power and then the tires are no longer the limit.

A little extra rear toe in from your previous setup wouldn’t hurt. Glad you got them! You should notice better rear grip accelerating.

Thank you mactilla! Let us know how it goes!

Stock is certainly “good enough”. But there is better. Normally there is a trade off in some way wrong car

20” tires are more tolerant to the high camber. Unfortunately you won’t know until it’s too late. The inner sidewall edge will be completely worn down. When it’s time for tires remember this post!

Your alignment looks like a typical factory setup. Try more air in your tires

Palladium is late 21+ s and x.

Shudder is from Cv joint issues. A separate issue from camber. You never hear of shudder is from Cv joint issues. A separate issue from camber. Rears do not have a problem. It’s the fronts that do. What’s different? The front tires steer. Going easy on the throttle until the wheel is...

Our forged arms are for the the first gen s and x. Toe arms are not needed unless you are trying to go extremely low. Our palladium kit takes a different approach to camber correction an offers an affordable, easy to install, high performance solution for the refresh cars.

The palladium suspension is all new but they carried over the old camber gain behavior. Fortunately it is possible to make a robust and affordable camber kit that is much easier to install. Arms are overkill for what you need. The stock arms are great just in the wrong place. Our kit puts...

probably the air compressor turning on.

Instructions are included. Can be installed easily by a DIYer. No youtube videos yet. If you need help we offer support with purchase.

Excellent question... Corporate Inertia.

Thanks for sharing this. We developed our bolt specs based on the bolt type and coating. Curiously that torque spec is inline with grade 8.8 galvanized bolt. The EPC indicates it is a 10.9... As verified on the cars we have encountered as well. Thus the spec we call for is inline with a...

Camber sensitivities are not linear and every setup is a compromise in one way or another. We push things back to where they should have come from the factory to a region where everything is better where the car actually operates.

We provide our shims and the instructions necessary to keep your same toe without an alignment visit. Factory bolts are overkill long. They are actually mid grade bolts designed to fail before other components. The bolt is designed fail before the subframe and arm.

Yes. The factory bolts are longer than necessary.

Your left/right difference is most likely a height calibration issue. This goes into why it is uneven. Tesla S & X Alignment Woes or WOAHS I have a camber kit that will help get things under control. You can DIY it in 30 minutes if you are a DIYer.

will work but you need the new sensors.

We reduce camber. it becomes less negative. I know the math and lingo is confusing. We include everything you need in the kit, including simple instructions. No re-alignment is necessary if your toe is already within spec. You get more useable grip and better tire wear. We adjust camber it to...

Yes.. But our kit is different. It is engineered so that camber is adjusted to the new spec and toe is where it was before without requiring an alignment visit. With no special alignment equipment. You save time, money and aggravation.

Uneven camber is most often a result of uneven ride height. Check out our blog here. Check your heights on an even surface. Tesla S & X Alignment Woes or WOAHS

As stated. the 19s are faster. If you want bigger wheels, then Id go for lighter 20s.. There are more sizes available at better prices. You can get alot for $4500 and go even faster. Either way you are going to want less camber. The stock setup eats tires and leaves a good bit of everyday...

Looks typical. The difference between left and right is most likely the car is tilted slightly. The left right camber difference is more a symptom of height tolerance. Check out Why does the Tesla S and X have too much camber? There is a low cost easy fix that helps greatly.

The heat comes from the rubber flexing. This is why running tires that sit flat (even with zero camber) on too low of a pressure will eventually blow out. The flexing of the rubber generates considerable heat. This is what is going on with the ps4s with all the camber. To solve, the Tesla...

FWIW the falken fk510 was noticably quieter than the latitude 3s I had before. I can highly recommend.

The heat in the sidewalls did not magically appear. It is from deflection of the rubber. It takes work to do that and energy from the batteries that could be put to more useful things. Try some less camber.

You are not crazy. Camber is too high for most any usage other than one lap on a road course track. Give this a read. Why does the Tesla S and X have too much camber?

The tesla s/x have has more camber than any other vehicle on the road. Not only is is hard on the inner sidewall it reduces straight line grip significantly. Every one ever manufactured is like this. Here is an easy fix that honestly everyone needs. Why does the Tesla S and X have too much camber?

If you have 5 minutes you may want to give this a read, there are more economical solutions to plaid camber issues that are super easy to install and do not require a realignment as long as rear toe is already within spec. Why does the Tesla S and X have too much camber?

Low is the new normal. Why does the Tesla S and X have too much camber?

hmmI want to ask someone about this... my plaid has loud tires.. this would be cool. It is noticably louder than the 2019 loaner x they gave me.

imo the wear is from steering angle and high torque, not so much the height. When pulling out in traffic, be sure to be gentle on the throttle while turning. get the wheel straight, then gun it. You never hear of rear half shafts needing replacing.

My advice.. When pulling out in traffic, do not give it alot of throttle with big steering wheel angles. Pull out more gently, turn straighten the wheel and then punch it. The high torque at high steering angles does the most wear. When is the last time you heard of anyone replacing the rear...

So, Drag does offer hub rings for the DR64 wheels for teslas PN 1128. Their software only shows it for the S but it will fit the X as it is all the same. If I stay with the latitude tires an option is to get 255/45/20 and 285/40/20. The 285s in that profile are much cheaper. The front/rear...

im curious to the dry grip differences between the high treadwear all seasons vs the lattitudes and something stickier.

Ive been looking for suggestions too. Is there anything better for the money? The ps4 all season looks interesting too. There are some more options if you jump to 265/45 and 285/45 20 too. Ive also been looking at alternative wheels. Something different. the DRAG DR64 wheels look cool to me...