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Could you share how much PE foam you needed? @JonB65 hoping you might be able to chime in on this as well. Only mention of this I saw was @gundarx originally saying he used almost all of ~60sq ft but my rough measurements of the wheel wells I came to ~168 sq. ft. for the front two wheel wells.

Not sure what you mean by two pieces, or how opening a door could affect sound deadening in a wheel well...

Could you or others who have done this share the thickness of the foam you went with on the front fenders? The noico doesn't exist on Amazon anymore and I'm hoping this 4mm Siless foam will do: https://a.co/d/9J52iHn

Definitely worthless. I got the maxspider mats (for everywhere, including sub trunk which is a huge source of this noise) which are almost certainly the best out there, they have a layer of foam in them and supposedly have the best sound deadening properties of any mat out there. I then got a...

I think any will do, and certainly you could fill the space with almost anything and get a real improvement, but nothing is likely to beat a sound blanket. That said it's kind of a lot of money for a heavy object that reduces the utility of your car, but if you're nuts like me I bought this one...

That's good to hear, I'm onto the butyl next! Lately I've taken to driving around with a 12lb. sound blanket in the under trunk compartment and using the parcel shelf. That combination is by far the most dramatic reduction I've gotten, like at least 80%. So if the butyl or front wheel well...

Are you saying that the rear wheel well butyl did *not* help with the deep resonate sounds, or that it did but some amount more of the noise you believe to becoming from the front wheels?

As a followup on this I just took a major roadtrip with a full trunk, and the deep resonant sound was completely eliminated. So to summarize: The pressure issue and the boominess are separate problems. The pressure issue can be fixed with tubing, hatch stop adjustments, and rotation of the...

I'll also add that as far as pressure goes, this was a meaningful to silver bullet solution for me. Vinyl tubing + hatch stop calibration didn't do the trick, but turning the left plastic cap clockwise and the right plastic cup counter clockwise did. I'm inclined to believe that the combination...

Did you rotate yours clockwise or counterclockwise?

Is there a recommendation for exactly how tight the hatch stops should grip the paper? Just tested mine set so tight that an envelope couldn't be removed on any, and I'm quite convinced that it has made things worse to the point of offsetting the positive effect of the parcel shelf. What model...

I wanted to thank you for taking the time to write up such thorough instructions and the link to the video, which was a great explainer on the problem. I got the bottom hatch stops to grip an envelope to the point I can't put it out, and the upper/light hatchstops to grip to the point where...

For the rigid hatch stops I'm not crafty. If someone was selling, I'd be buying. Not sure I understand how much those help beyond the vinyl tubing fix. As for the butyl I should probably re-purchase and rip things apart again, didn't realize the foam in there was a known entity I should have...

That's the only thing I didn't attempt as I do not have access to a 3D printer. That said it looks like I missed that the foam on top of the rear wheel wells is a known entity, and that is to be removed to then put down the butyl. So I might give that a try as of yet (having already returned my...

2023 MY here, the wheel well is already insulated with sound deadening material. Per image below, the black plastic sheath over the wheel well is lined with some sort of acoustic foam, then there's a large block of white foam to the right of it, and a layer of black insulation to the left...