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id agree with @bo3bdar . Id like to see a picture of how its wired up or at least a diagram of how you wired it exactly. I can rest my hand on the resistor all day long when its running or not and its lukewarm at best.

if your cigarette lighter is 15v, it sounds like you have a post refresh Model 3 with 16v low voltage. Is yours 2021+ with the newer center console and usb c? AFAIK for post refresh model the procedure is essentially all the same but you have to ensure all of your equipment accepts 16v input...

To add to what RWAudio said, if you dont want to try to deal with signal sense you can improvise your own switched 12v that works with the seat sensor. i have info and a diagram on reddit, and there is a similar thread also here on TMC. Definitely more involved but this would allow more amp...

ill take your word for it, i read several places it causes issues that i found a hard wired solution, but if it truly works itd be far simpler of an install.

Problem with audio sense is sentry will cause false positives. It puts enough signal on the speakers to turn it on. Using the brown wire seat sensor is my preferred method.

1 and 3 address separate things. For 1, use the post in #3 with instructions for the remote wire and using the brown wire from the seat sensor + a relay. Its been rock solid. If i am out of the seat and the door closes, it goes to 0v every single time and remains off. For 3: FWIW ive been...

Brown wire i can confirm will give you the desired behavior. If you open the door and then close it again and there is nobody in the seat it cuts power because nobody is in the car and it should shut off. If you are still in the seat you can open and close the door and it all remains on...

Agree with what @Jerry Ham says. There is quite a big difference in resistance. Think about an 4ohm amp and bridging it to 2ohms, you get more power right? Same idea here, except in reverse. The higher the resistance, the lower the power. Those errors you got sound like the in-rush current...

Thanks. Yes I do have an Intel MCU, and I saw that but i still have full warranty until March of next year so before i start taking the tuner apart im going to wait until it expires. All my modifications so far are fairly easily reversed if i need to go in for service, but this feels a lot...

Installed SiriusXM due to some areas in AZ having poor cell and fm coverage, so the app doesnt always work and its a bit of a PITA over bluetooth anyway. Ran the antenna on the trunk using 3m mounting tape to hold the wire to the underside and ran along and into the grommet for the tail light...

I just bought 3 Wall Connectors. For each one It asked me for name and address. I dont think they really care where they go.

Anyone have an idea of what wire i can use as an illumination wire? im installing one of those add on siriusxm units that is hard wired and it has the ability to dim when the headlights are on but i cannot seem to find any reference to anything i can use for this

Thats a different wire. The one behind the HVAC vents is for the light inside of the center console armrest. It works in conjunction with the seat sensor. Installed an amp and subs over the weekend It was my understanding its not powerful enough to power accessories by itself, so i used it...

Yes, thank you! Thats exactly where i suspected it goes. Youll notice on the other side is a metal contact that moves with the lid. It looks like its held in place by pressure so i may have to take it apart to get it back in. I couldnt just shove it in. Anyhow, that black wire on the far...

That was me :-) lmao. Here is my matching TMC post if you need it: https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/threads/installed-an-amp-and-subs-over-the-weekend.302160/ Hope the changes fix your issues!

I dont believe those are the same wires. The ones i tapped were specifically behind the hvac vents and much thinner. The brown is switched and based on the seat occupancy sensor. I tested with a multimeter, it was 12v with the door open or if i was in the seat and the door was closed. 0v if...

Yes, the rear vent with the two usb ports in the back. Give it a tug and it will unclip. You'll see two sets of wires, one going into the rear vent for the USBs and the other I believe goes somewhere for the top lid of the center console. Studying this, I believe it detects when the lid is...

its brown/blue on one side, converting to black yellow on the other. I connected to the black side as it was easier to tap into but electrically its the same circuit. BTW, when you take yours apart take a picture for me of the black/yellow end when it runs to. it looks like it had a rubber...

Recently had some ask for the diagram including the lc2i pro in the mix so ill share it here as well. Changed color coding for remote/12v switched wires to avoid confusion

If i remember right, in my research leading up to this i read a thread where a member had mentioned 80 amp didnt work for them and it threw an error. FWIW i have not had a single issue in the 3.5 months since installing this. I know the 200 amp one is expensive, but IMO buy once cry once...

I did the install, and did a write up here https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/threads/installed-an-amp-and-subs-over-the-weekend.302160/#post-7619846

Absolutely love it. Its still a joy to drive every day. I dont think i can go back to an ICE vehicle now. Even with it being a SR, its absolutely better than anything ive owned before it. Low end is missing from the audio since it lacks a sub but ive already remedied that with an aftermarket...

For context, i paid $35k for a 2020 SR with 20k miles with only basic AP in March. $42k for a Performance with FSD with only 10k more miles? Thats a pretty great deal.

Good point about the fuse. Its what the kit from KnuKonceptz included, but im not using anywhere close to that much power so it'd likely be safer to downsize the fuse. The amp does has dual 20A fuses, so throwing a 40-50 amp fuse in the place of the 125 is fine. To answer your questions...

Yea, I have a 125 amp fuse on the penthouse within < 12 inches. No way id allow that much power unfused. Thats just asking for a fire if something shorts. Its also using 4ga OFC from KnuKonceptz and its 450w amp which only has 40 amps worth of fuses on it. The cables are overkill for my...

According to the LC2i, yes. I paid for a consultation with Matt Schaefer of Sound Fx/Musiac Design prior to this install, because as you point out there is a ton of information floating out there. Hes done quite a few Tesla installs and has been featured on many major audio brands websites...

Eq was flat when i set the gain if thats what you meant, then used the multimeter then to get desired wattage output from the amp to not blow the subs.

Correct, id probably error on the side of caution to 3 if you wanted to crank it. With the subs in, 70% is already really loud so i never go up to the max. But the signal is mostly clean, kudos to Tesla for that. Now, mind you i didnt hook this up to my oscilloscope and am just going by the...

2-3 notches below max is clipping according to the LC2i. Its undistorted all the way up to about 90%. I was astonished watching how far i could turn the volume without the maximized light coming on

Have a 2020 SR (not plus). Since i bought it my only real complaint was the total lack of low end. Figured it would be simple to install a small electrical component in an electric car. ICE vehicles have always been straight forward, and aside from fighting to get the power wire through the...

https://catalog.pac-audio.com/catalog/can-integration/cp1-s-tsl1 Looks like PAC now offers this interface, that among other things, can decode the canbus and provide a 12v switched output. I think im sticking with relay/brown wire/vc left solution for now because the PAC box is $150, which is...

i couldnt find anything, but found an image on ebay that had just the black cutout shape. I took that and coverted to vector in illustrator and now have a decent template. its not perfect by any means, anyone thats good with illustrator could probably clean up my work to bring it to something...

I guess my question is better phrased, with my model year SR can/should i be charging to 100% nightly or should i limit it to 80% unless im going on a trip where i need the range?

Is that true of all SRs regardless of year? Ive been charging to 80%. Mine is a 2020 and is not a LFP battery. I thought the 100% for SR was for LFP batteries?

Im on the west coast and superchargers are decently plentiful. Aside from the pita of having to charge more often i havent found anywhere im biting my nails...yet.

Thanks for the confirmation, i was going crazy

I do have front heated seats with the option to pay a 1x cost for rears, onboard streaming music does work, navigation with live traffic works with premium connectivity. Range is limited, 195 miles at 100%. Only things I can upgrade in the app are: Rear Heated Seats, Enhanced Auto Pilot ($6k)...

Thanks for the confirmation guys. Im totally fine with it being a SR. Thats what i thought it was to begin with. The maroney got my wheels turning. Such a weird thing to remove SR+ but add basic autopilot all for a savings of what, $2k?

Monroney sticker applies to new cars. This is the Monroney sticker from the original owners purchase when it was new that was in the glovebox. Im not talking about the window sticker from the dealership i bought it from.

So my car and app both say Standard and Standard Range, not Standard Range Plus and my max range at 100% is 195 miles currently. I also do not have Immersive Mode in Audio settings. Im 99% this is SR software. I bought my Model 3 from a 3rd party dealership, all my paper work just says Model...

im looking for a charge port file, ai/svg. The retail options available are very few. It'd be fairly simple to mock up all sorts of designs if we had the template.

You can order just the empty enclosure? How much does that run? Ive considered the NVX box, but factory would allow it to be completely hidden.

This was one of the amps I was considering anyway due to its size and its built in bass rolloff correction. I currently have a 500w Alpine AB amp in my ICE car i was considering moving over, but the kicker amp feels like it may be safer with modern electronics.

https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/threads/aftermarket-sub-woofer-amplifier-installation-using-dc-dc-12v-power-source.149582/

limits inrush current on amp start up which causes errors

I have a 2020 Model 3 SR, no rear sub. Im craving low end. Ive read thread after thread and understand that i should be tapping 12v constant at the penthouse, and using a relay + resistor but this is where information is a bit all over the place. resistor ive seen suggested 100w and anywhere...

If this were an ICE vehicle, id be definitely wanting something much more powerful, but given all the stories of random issues when adding an aftermarket amplifier has given me serious concern. So, i thought outside the box. Alpine PWE-S8 What about something like this? Its 120w rms/240w peak...