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Shutting off both relays in the battery does indeed shut off HV. And there is an pyro fyse for the 12V that blows in an crash. But the HV Pyro fuse only blows if there is an short.

Or, just replace the screen yourself for 163 dollar. https://www.ebay.com/itm/125748137232

Yes, thats the one.

I checked the fuse today. 1077177-00-B, Pyro Fuse with built in batteries. Changed it for the new model that's self-powered. I double checked with Tesla, and its compatible with my car. It can handle 2000A and will never blow unless there is an actual short.

The Pyro fuse in the HV battery has no communication with the rest of the car. Meaning it will not blow unless there is an actual short in the HV system. The 12V pyro fuse on the other hand is triggered by the same system as the airbags.

Yes, have tried WOT but only for short periods. I believe the original fuse for the P85 was 650A. 650A and 350V is only 227KW so kind of low when you think about it. I will open and check the fuse and replace with the new self powered 2000A Pyro fuse if its not done already. It could be one...

I only have RWD P85 so dont think that will be an issue. I do have an pyro fuse that I removed from my old 85 kwh battery. I dont know what fuse is in the 90KWH battery currently, but checking and changing is now easy since its located under the battery.

Just swapped battery in my P85 from 2013. Installed 1102982-01-A (400V) taken from an S85 that had upgraded to 90 kwh under warranty. All that was needed was reinstall FW! No coding needed. Car runs and charges just fine.. Also sold most of the modules from the 85 kwh battery and will end...

I have asked around to find the best solution. And what I have found is that rooting the MCU/Tegra board is the best approach. There will probably not be much updates available for the MCU1 in the years to come and my car is 10 years ago. Might as well gain full control of the car for...

The "Redeploy-Firmware" function is actually available in the Servicemeny, unless they removed this recently. I did this when changing the onboard-charger, and when upgrading the chargeport from GEN 1.0 to GEN 1.5 (European with motor open/close). The reason why I am asking this is because I...

Will this work if changing out an 85 kwh for an 90 kwh? No toolbox needed, just redeploy FW?

I am happy to report my car also came back to life with no error messages after putting back the battery yesterday. There was no room to fit the humidity sensor behind the fuse lid. I will leave that for next time, if I ever have to drop the battery again. I guess opening the "penthouse" and...

Tomorrow I am putting my battery back together, and up in to the car. And will attempt to glue the humidity sensor to the inside of the fuse lid. Basically new fuse, new lid, new umbrella valves and two weeks of drying the battery by blowing hot air 24/7 thru the battery.

I have one of the Ruuvitags on my desk now. My company actually sell these. It will not fit thru the vent holes for the umbrella valves, but should fit between the HV fuse and the lid. And obviously have to be glued on to the lid (preferably) or the fuse, so it does not move around. Actually I...

That's an good idea. These are really small, and you can remove the casing. Maybe glue it on top of the pyro fuse? Or simply to the inside of the fuse lud. Not sure if BT signal will go thru the lid but I think it will, if your phone is close. https://ruuvi.com/ruuvitag-pro/ Battery lasts 2...

In my case the HV fuse blew, while driving. On the S85 the fuse lid is on top of the battery and was rusted to the point where it tore apart when opening. So that's when I discovered I also had moisture inside, and honestly probably more than you had. I still have not had any error messages...

This is me trying to dry an Model S85 pack using two shoe dryers. First step is remove HV-FUSE lid and all umbrella valves. In an S85 pack there are 16 modules to dry, two modules in the "penthouse". Each dryer has 4 hoses, and this model actually had hoses that fit to the holes perfect. In...

Just want to confirm here, it was the HV fuse. I am doing the full "reseal" while I have the battery out.. New and improved umbrella valves etc.

The umbrella valves are listed as "over the counter" so should be no problem getting new ones. Same goes for HV fuse and fuse cover. I live just 2 km from an Service Centre. I will just inspect and clean them with some wipes and brush/water. Or replace if needed. Have been playing with the...

I am dropping the battery in a week and I want to check and clean the umbrela valves while I am at it. Does anyone have experience on how to best do this? What to look for, and what NOT to do. Can I just remove them all and clean in water? Or is it best to try to clean them where they are. Or...

I found this tread that seems to support my conclusion its the HV fuse. https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/threads/tesla-model-s-2014-hv-battery-issue.284018/ So I have ordered fuse 1111313-00-F (PyroTech) off eBay, and new stainless steel fusecover from Electrified Garage. Should arrive here in...

Thanks for your input but if it was the fuse to the DC/DC, then the DriveUnit would still have power.

Hello. I have the following error messages on my 2013 P85. This happened while driving.. Car cut off HV and soon after the 12V was dead as well. First message was: BMS_f139_SW_DC_Link_V_Irrational Then:: BMS_w080_SW_Int_HV_Disconnect There seems to be NO messages regarding isolation errors...

So today we went ahead and blew off the 2013 airbags from my old seats. The only thing we can conclude was that they both worked, and that power polarity does not matter, as I tested them both with switching polarity.

First of all, the passenger seats have no memory module in GEN1 seats. That means that all the current running to the seat motors go directly thru these switches. While in an Gen4 seat, there is an memory module in each seat, so they build the swithces smaller and with thinner wires.. You can...

Hi Gard. I recently installed 2019/2020 GEN4 seats in my 2013, and i live in Oslo. Let me know if you need any help.

Good day folks! I finally fixed the airbag issue. First of all, It seems to be no need for Tesla to delete any error logs. Once everything is connected correctly, the lamp will go off. Second of all, my airbags are connected like shown in post #52 in this tread. I can not tell for 100%...

This is the switches in the seats, and they are all connected directly to the Safety Controller. Could be something to double-check.

Today i had the Model S in to fix some other stuff and i also asked them to have an look at the airbag lamp issue. I told them straight away that the seats have been switched and this is the reason for the airbag lamp to be on. They seemed kind of cool with it and told me the seats look great...

Nobody has any progress in the airbag light? Even things you have tried that did not work would be helpful.

In regards to the airbags i have found this in the technical drawings to the car. The 3 wires are basicly Ground/shield, confirmed to be the Black wire. Then there is + and - to activate the airbag. Thats it... the only thing i have not tried yet is to swap + and -.

Today i made some progress, and got the seat heaters to work, both sides. I used the controller from the old seats, and basicly it works like this. On the input you have 3 wires, Ground, Line-BUS then 14V. You might just want to check that you do have 14V there just to be sure, if not then some...

So today I did an attemt to install the old switch boards in to the new side covers. I cut away all of the old mounting holes using an Dremel tool.2 The hole for the lumbar controll is of the same size, so no need to change that. The issue is the two boards need to be very close to eachother...

Atleast it looks good. I also installed an 2019 center console, and the carbon trims in dashboard. I will take apart the old seats to really figure out how the airbag and the seat heating is connected. Suspect the brown wire is the "sense" cable to see if the airbag is connected somehow. I...

Thanks. Are you also getting airbag warning? I belive you mentioned in post #24 that there was none. I compared the new and old seats using ohm meter, and i am quite comfident the wires are correctly setup. The two wires with stripes (old hardness) is close to short, like 1-2 ohm. There seems...

I am actually mostly done with the installation now. The seats are in the car, and all motors work, with memory. I have not connected the heater, and also the airbag lamp is on so i guess i did not connect it corretly. Any help with correct colour mathcing would be apriciated.

Hi folks. I am doing the same install. 2019 seats in to an 2013 model. And I got most things figured out with all the sensors and motors. The airbag seems to have 3 wires in the old seats and 4 wires in the new seat. and totally different colors on the wires. Any tips on how to connect this...

Anyways. I am thinking 15 000 dollar for the battery, then I guess about 1000 dollar for the shipping to New Jersey or other east cost town. Shipping big stuff to and from USA with boat is not a problem at all. I regularly import stuff from USA, like motorbikes, pallets of solar panels etc.

Hello. I have an Tesla S85 battery for sale. (Car had only 10 000 km on it) Please let me know if anyone is interested i doing an similar project as described in this tread. Use PM. Tried to send wk057 an PM, but its blocked.

That`s going to be a LOT of cables. But yes, I guess it can be done that way.

Ah, I see. But in that way it would be very difficult to make an BMS solution. The way I suggest, would make that very easy.

No, not quite what I had in mind. Is it possible to rearrange all cells in one module so they are all in parallel? It will of-course involve cutting some connections, and welding on some new ones. Now its 4,2+4,2+4,2+4,2+4,2+4,2=25,2 V Right? Put them all in parallel and it would be much easier...

I expanded my "nissan Leaf battery module". Now it contains 70 cells, about 35KWH. Why not simply break the Tesla battery pack down to the bare cells, then add 3.party BMS systems.. there are plenty of options out there. Building with Nissan Leaf modules are really easy, almost like Lego ;)

I did something similar to a Nissan LEaf battery. It is now running as an storage solution to my on-grid system. The BMS i use is this one. REC d.o.o. IT has CAN support to the SMA Sunny Island 6.0H.