Search results

Had my car off for a month now getting fault with those errors & comm problem & powertrain problem. I thought it wss the battery but apoarently it comes comes & goes. It comes on immediately when I open the trunk. Anyone?

Installed new 12v battery at 12.9v...was UB12120 not YB12120. Fault with error codes & non driveable. Reinstalled the YB12120 that Gruber installed at 7.2v and it all went away. Crazy!

Its us darn near 2"

Before you criticize me just know that I will never sell this car so I'm unconcerned about resale value.

It's not dirt...it's carbon from the brushes INSIDE the sealed motor. Car has 49k pem & motor clean.

It had the dual blower.

I've been wrestling with the annoying beep for a few years. After talking to Peter I decided to get new connectors back by the motor. That didn't work. I decided to pull the fan and clean the motor. Once I separated the cover I blew compressed air and it was thicker than a 6.7l diesel...

I guess I'll cancel the rest of my rally cross events. For anyone that's interested I used a 2" bump stop on back which was perfect.

I forgot this forum is only full of naysayers & know it all critics that love to hear themselves talk. I remember now that is why I quit a few years ago....too many people warning me not to rebuild my battery, my plexi cover would kill me and on and on and on. Good grief!

I had to firm up the springs to keep them from rubbing. lock tighted and blocked the inner lug nuts so they can't loosen.

Yes, need to keep contacts closed. I accessed the HV wires going in to motor. Turned off 12v and emergency disconnect...pulled plug over plastic cover, checked for 0 volts, removed bolts on HV wires. I then drilled holes in plastic cover and used metric studs with nut inside to tighten HV...

I have been planning to set my new home up off-grid in Socal. I knew I could use S modules but it seemed counter productive to pull apart the car and have to re-engineer the amazing hvac and charging Tesla has designed. So I bought a salvage but driving MS and hacked into the HV wires...

Peter at Gruber mentioned his docs state 3.36v is equal to a 1% SOC which would mean it is probably 3.3v to 0% and 3.2v shutoff...same as Model S. I am going to run mine down to below 3 4v and reset my soc parameter and I suspect my range will increase. We'll see.

Good find. That correlates with what I found in recovering the pack....the system woke up at 3.0 volts. However, the curve doesn't look like many capacity tests I've seen where there is still significant capacity from 3.7v down to 3.2v.

For posterity sake...my model S reads 323v (3.36v per) with 9 miles to go. That would lead me to speculate that 0 miles is 3.30v and they are known to go another 20ish miles before shutdown which would maybe be 3.20v.

No offense but don't bother shipping to SF when Gruber is on the way. You have 0% chance of getting the battery to trickle without a variable dc charger and accessing the battery out of the vehicle or through the bmb port. After 8 months the 220v charger will not help. I know, I've done it...

You need to look down in each bmb for a light to blink to make sure they are all alive. The sheet alarm only showed when I had a bad bmb or disconnected brick voltage wire. Also, just to help your description, the battery has 11 sheets, 9 bricks per sheet, and 69 cells per brick. On the...

My car's range dropped a lot over the last year. I was curious so I drove my car down to below 25 mile range and noticed my brick voltages are still 3.7v? What is the lowest anyone has seen? If I recall from my battery rebuild a few years back that the car didn't wake up until around 3v...

So even if I were to load newer firmware I coukdn't connect to the app or stream music because the certs?

Car was off for 2 years and won't update. Tesla wanted a lot of $$ (3 hr min diagnosis and infotainment upgrade). I have done a hard reset with no change. My version is 9.0 (2018.50.6) I can't connect to the app or streaming music.

Deleted

Sold long ago. Don't know why they advertise it.

So happy to be cruising again!

My car was a cert of destruction from FL. I need a salvage title & new vin to license it or any ideas you may have.

No, decided to wait until my ESS dies completely before I go that route since I'd be pilling a lot more amps. I did decide it's do-able though!

Been a while for me due to family stuff but I'm back to attending to my lady. She's a 2011 #1446 My heat & ac quit a while back. I thought it was maybe 400v controller but ac light would go on, controller light was red and diagnostic menu showed the fan switch was working. Once I got access...

If anyone has any let me know.

Hi Chad, Saddly she has a new owner. Somehow I rebuilt the battery on the chrome salvage project I got just for fun....then suddenly there were two and I was only driving the chromester. I'm sure the new owner will see this and laugh. He's on here often.

I took it to a local marine upholstery shop and had them sew in the Isinglas...its thicker than plastic and doesnt crease or scratch as easily.

Nice to put the top on when its sunny but cold but hate how dark it is.....problem solved!

Why did you put Roadster in title? I have been considering that P85 motor setup but keeping the stock battery. From your title I thought some beat me to it!

The seat pads are thin....if I were going to drive more than an hour or two I'd get a 2nd foam pad. Have fun!

In this situation, the vampire draw keeps switchpack on so when you park and are not charging you will still hear the little pem fan and coolant pump run continuously.

Of course, I may have unpluged my rear speakers

It would be worth unplugging the power to the XM if its out anyway. Just my $.02

My car has the updated two module and the XM went out and I noticed the car would not go in to sleep mode. Unplugged the XM module and it now goes to sleep.

No, the plug on the 400v controler (hvac) under the hood......I think Wiztecy took his apart. There is a fuse in there to check. Strange thing is that the powertrain problem message is usually associated with the pem fan.

I have also been getting intermittent "powertrain problem" messages. They come and go, I watch the temps and keep driving. I did notice my 400v controller's led is not lit when key is on. I also noticed that when you pull the 8 wire plug you immediately get that same problem. So, I thought...

There was a bulletin about Sirius receivers drawing too much wich doesn't let the switchpack turn off. It was mostly referencing earlier VINs up to about 685. The solution was a 2 part receiver. My project #1446 wasn't shutting down and my Sirius was gone. Alpine support says if the unit...

Who needs Tesla?

Let them declare it a total loss, negotiate the value up, then buy it back for cheap.

Who bought her?

Drove 10 miles tonight and she drove perfect....it will take a while to get my confidence up but I'll enjoy this victory for tonight. A pix with my painted wheels and Ti rotors

Its been a crazy couple of days with the Silver Surfer. I have been driving it quite a bit lately and other than Powertrain Failure but temps have been cool so I ignored it until it went away. Two days ago, I was working on my PEM and I got a very small spark near the 12v inputs with my...

Wildwood hat/rotor....stock caliper. I drove with and they feel fine but I havent had a chance to do any real emergency stop tests.

Has anyone tried the EBC yellow or red pads? Supposed to be the best from the reviews I've read.

Finally got them back from machine shop. Looking good but it'll be a few more days until I can test them.

You can get limited access to the battery through the BMB's on top back of ESS. I made a custom BMB you can plug in to each sheet to get the voltage. Then if they are still alive, you can charge each sheet carefully through the same board. 3 years is a really long time though....