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I have this problem on my 2015 70D and would love any more details you could give about this. Were you able to move the "long harness" out of the way so that it doesn't get pinched? Is your problem still fixed now that a year has passed? Thanks!

Maybe you’re right. I seem to remember it being $1500 instead of $2000 but maybe the price went up for both the more expensive one (AP2) and the discounted one (AP1).

A service advisor just told me that there is no discount available for the MCU1-to-MCU2 upgrade if done in place of the eMMC recall on my 2015 70D. I could have sworn there was a discount offered. Has it expired? Has anyone gotten it recently? I am being told it is $1750, which is the regular...

My 2015 P85D sprung a leak in one of the air suspension hoses. I found the leak and sealed it with some plastic tubing and super glue. Tesla confirmed that the leak is fixed, so I just need them to make my air suspension level again, which I have read is a simple/quick thing but requires Tesla...

If it was functioning well before disassembly, don’t you think you should spend the $ to have the shop reassemble it before you sell it? Seems like it would be much more attractive to buyers that way and you would make more than your money back.

Many people have had success having Tesla program a fob they bought from a 3rd party, which is one of the reasons I posted about this. It is hard to tell if it is a policy, if it depends on who you get for service, or if it depends on if the fob is used and still linked to a previous vehicle.

I am in the same position, and have wondered the same thing. I am close to ordering the Megamat Duo 10 M, but wonder if the Auto would be an even better fit.

My local service center gave me an estimate for $175 for the fob (1455940-00-B) and $19.50 for the programming. Sounds reasonable, so I guess I won't risk buying an "unprogrammable" fob online.

Yes, I realize the newer vehicles allow for programming at home. For the 400,000ish Model S vehicles sold before that, though, like my 2013, a lot of fobs will still need replacing and programming.

Yes, but that is helpful because it sounds like it corresponds to the newer US part 1455940-00-A, as opposed to the original part 1007492-00-F. I assume that fob was for your 2014 P85+ ?

$135 including the hour to program, or $135 plus the hour of labor (another $175ish) to program?

There seems to be a lot of variation in experiences getting replacement fobs, even when getting them from Tesla. How much did you pay for the fob and how much for the programming? If you bought the fob from a third party, how did you know if it was programmable, or if it was already tied to a...

I've read that the used fob can be used again if it was deactivated with the original car. If not, it is unable to be paired to a new car.

OK. I think fobs changed in 2017, so hopefully you ended up with one that is compatible. Good luck.

Do you happen to know what the part number was of the fobs you bought? I have a January 2013 S 85 and am going to buy a replacement fob and want to make sure I get the right one that can be programmed to my car.

Were the keys 1455940-00-A or 1455940-00-B? Did Tesla charge you around $85US to do each fob?

I know this post is very very old, but any chance you have one left? My January 2013 S85 could use a second FOB and I can see that the first one has this same part # (1007492-00-F), so I think it should work for me once programmed.

I zoomed in on a pic and can see it is a 70D. Looks like very good condition. Good luck with the sale.

battery size? performance? dual motor? Pics of functioning info screens? Since you’re a dealer, are you sure FUSC will transfer without issue? Sounds like a fair price depending on those things.

Sorry for my ignorance, but this is an item made by Tesla to install into 2012-2020 Model S vehicles to give the center console? What is the advantage of replacing the whole thing like this versus using an aftermarket drop-in console, like evannex? Thanks.

I drove by them last night, didn’t see any work being done on them, only saw one charger light out, and saw somebody charging. Very shortly after, the info on my screen listed 7 stalls available instead of the wrench icon, so I should be good to go. If not, I’ll fall back on the Chargepoint or...

Hi I’m coming into town for a couple days on a road trip with my family and I was planning on relying on the supercharger. I see now that it’s being serviced and says that maybe three stalls are available? Does anybody have any information on if those three stalls are really running and how long...

I think I'm going to get those as well. So far so good for you with them, I assume? Stock split-spoke or slipstream wheels?

Beautiful car, and sounds like a good deal to me. I've got a 2013 S as well, VIN 4408, but not a P like yours and not nearly in as nice a condition as yours. They are great driving cars, and somebody could probably get this repaired at Electrified Garage in MA or get a cheaper battery swap at...

PM sent!

Yeah, Tesla's gen2 lugs use the covers, but the gen1 don't. All of these gen1s on my car look the same, so it's strange that so many of the fronts still fit the 21mm and the rears don't.

I just bought a 2015 P85D and I am about to remove the wheels for the first time. It has generation 1 lug nuts, and my 21mm deep socket fits nicely over 9 of the front lugs and zero of the rear (11 of them it goes on maybe half an inch and then gets very tight). Assuming I am able to get these...

Back entrance is now open for use!

Nice car! Do you know if still is on the original high voltage battery and drive unit?

Thanks for your honesty. I just got these wheels, otherwise I would have considered it. Good luck with the sale.

6k miles isn’t long. May I ask what your setup was and why you are selling them? I have a January 2013 S with stock 19” slipstreams. How do I know if the slipstreams will fit over the old lugs and if the tires will rub at some angles? Thanks.

Have your “battery care” guidelines been shared publicly? It sounds like you have as much insight as anyone as far as that goes, so I would be very interested in reading them. Thanks!

Mind sharing the final selling price? I have a very similar car (but not as good condition as yours) and I’m considering putting it on the market.

These appear to be Verde Axis wheels, yes? Matte black? It is not clear from the picture. Can you include pics of the numbers on them, confirming the size and offset? Do you know their history and condition? Are two of the center caps missing? Closeup pics of each wheel would help. Thanks.

Full expected V3 charging speeds, I assume?

Can confirm that charging still doesn’t work as of today (Sunday 1/23) at 2:40pm. Connects to the car and then says DC charging failed.

Is that matte black chrome delete? Did you do it yourself or is it professionally done?

I understand. I'm not knocking your process, just trying to understand the difference between the items and which one would be the better choice for me. The label "Gen3" on some of the PTCs made me think that significant improvements have happened, so I was tempted to go with the most recent...

Thank you, this helps. I have not had my charging impacted, even when it was 7 degrees F (-14C), so I guess my battery heater is fine! Any chance you have the part number that they replaced you heater core with? Tesla is telling me 1041265-00-F but 057 Technology is telling me 6007385-00-G.

To save people a click: $50,500.

Yes to dividing by model. Also time to require asking price in the title and to get better about marking as sold once it’s sold.

I'm about to troubleshoot my lack of cabin heat, and am trying to figure out my chances of needing a new PTC. Has your fuse blown since you replaced it the first time?

What part number did you end up going with? Tesla wants to replace mine (January 2013 S85) with 1041265-00-F, but I'm planning to do it myself and I can't find that part available. Do you know if the PTC part numbers are compatible, other than the shorter wires? I see a lot of 6007385-00-J (and...

Did you ever find the part number for the 20 amp fuses? I am about to replace the 40 amp fuses and would like to have the 20s on hand just in case.

Thank you. Yes, January 2013 Model S 85. I guess what I’m not sure about is at the dangerous temps, is the battery heater running to keep the battery from getting too cold? If my battery heater is broken, does it put my battery in more danger due until I fix it?

So Friday, after getting some snow, I went for a drive and noticed that my cabin heater was not working. Another longer drive yesterday confirmed this. I know it is probably the fuse in the DC/DC, the heater core, or both. But my question is, how do I tell if my battery heater is currently...

So Friday, after getting some snow, I went for a drive and noticed that my cabin heater was not working. Another longer drive yesterday confirmed this. I know it is probably the fuse in the DC/DC, the heater core, or both. But my question is, how do I tell if my battery heater is currently...

Thanks for the pics. It looks like it matches my leather color (gray), but not my wood grain. I’m hoping to find one that matches both, thanks.

Sold? If not, pics please.

Did you ever find out more about this? Just bought S #4408 and from what I can see, it does not have "Car Status" either. It must have TPMS, since I am getting a "Tire Pressure Monitoring System Fault" error off and on.