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Interesting. The taller 5.5mm require aftermarket hardware but the 4.8mm do not. I'm interested in final readings on your reds once you get the car aligned. Curious how they compare to the 4.8mm, which looked very good.

Do you know the thickness of the reds? I wonder how close they are to 4.8mm

I had to reformat on my PC, then reformat from the car. Hopefully that works for you

If I’m forced to add a lot of weight I’ll typically stack it. When I see a large strip it’s usually a case of somebody reading 6oz and pulling out the entire length

If there’s no vibration it’s not a cause for concern. Looks like a lazy tech. It’s not going to hurt anything.

This happened to us as well, I was able to resolve it by pulling the USB and reformatting

If you're in the Bay I have some shims you can pick up.

they hold the fender liner in

yeah max heating. I should check the aftermarket wheel after a long drive since apparently it takes a while

I was able to salvage two images off the camera, the warmer image is the OEM wheel.

After > 5 mins, the wheel is warm to touch but it doesn't get hot like the factory wheel. I haven't had a chance to drive in the morning when it's in the 50s yet, but I suspect the wheel will be warm enough where isn't not cold to touch.

it was the active spoiler on my X. There’s a thread somewhere here about it

Endurance denied my first claim and I escalated to XC and it was resolved

that was going to be my next car, but Elon opened up free SC transfer and I traded the X for a Y. Are you happy with it?

Ioniq!

Got around to installing this today. I've never enjoyed working around airbags, so I've put it off for as long as I could 😂 Took some before and after thermal measurements and saw a pretty sig drop in temp and distribution in the aftermarket version. That being said, I haven't driven it with...

I have no idea what I purchased, nor was it indicated on the site lol

If it has not been completed, that's the first thing I would do.

That's so bad. But, given what I've seen from techs and service centers this is not abnormal.

What are you even saying?

Or factory wheels off a LR

+1, I did the same.

I would consider out of warranty old. You are conflating the knuckle SB with spherical bearings, those two are not related. Was SB-21-31-004 completed on your vehicle? If not, you may be able to put pressure on Tesla. If it has been, you have no recourse.

Arms are a known failure point on older cars, not knuckles. Bushing play is wear and tear. Why would Tesla cover that?

you can, but not a great idea if you live in a wet area

It’s not racing camber

Correct, MYP is staggered from the factory

That is a GREAT price, my MIL paid close to $70 for a LR!

Do we know the final alignment? There's a smidge less camber, but the rear toe is substantially worse.

I paid attention to the screen today and did see the auto speed limit on Highway 17 and Highway 1. My previous thoughts on the software are unchanged, if the "auto" speed limit can be used to determine which code is active.

The current non-FSD viz is actively making the car look dated. But, I guess Tesla needs to justify 12k to buyers somehow

Putting it in perspective...with all the discounts, we can buy a new MY for about 30k. Is FSD worth almost a third of the car?

Thanks, I will pay attention today.

I'm going to reenable FSD and give this a try. I don't recall the two viz looking different, is there a defining characteristic of the new version?

Very well said

I think what they've accomplished is impressive, but it's also terrifying. The fact that you weren't nervous in LA concerns me 😂 Allowing people to officially transfer EAP/FSD to future vehicles would probably increase the take rate. But paying 20% of the value of your car for something you...

oh, if highway is V11 then my highway observations were a placebo. I would never use V12 on surface streets

Did they update the autowipers? I dunno if it's a placebo, but the wipers turned on with a slight drizzle and ramped up as the rain got worse. They also shut off after the rain stopped. The car seems to handle speed differentials much better, i.e. coming up on stopped cars on the highway. That...

The SC transfer and my ability to lower my AGI to qualify for the tax credit was what convinced me. But now that I've had it for a while, I really love everything about the Y: no half shaft issues, no rear alignment issues, no crazy doors to fail, better battery chemistry, faster charging...

Based on their last earnings report, they don't appear to care about either. They did sucker me into a new Y though 😂

Saw the notification when I got in my car today. It drives well on the highway, but I've yet to test it in stop and go traffic. I'll admit that having lane change on signal is nice. It's terrifying on surface streets. Autopark misjudged the distance between a parked car and a concrete column and...

Most shops aren't going to spend the time to dial in anything less than 1/8. When I do my own alignments I target 1/16, but that takes time.

These look really good. Slightly more toe than I'd like in the rear but for the price, the results are excellent. I actually want to walk back on my original statement that aftermarket toe arms are needed.

I hate working on heavy equipment. I am actively fighting my inner tool hoarder to not purchase anything about 1/2". There's a few 3/4 here and there because of various axle nuts...butttt no thanks!

Good to know, I'll leave it as it!

Nice! After seeing people use these I am thinking about revising the design to include a slot on one end so you don't need to completely remove the bolt

Were those mine, or did you make them yourself? I might put together another set of thicker shims with hardware

I have mobile service downstairs replacing a failed ASB sensor on my Y with 5k miles. If anybody is wondering, they don't use a torque stick or a torque wrench. I think they're using 7 ugga duggas and calling it good. This is why I work on my own vehicles.

This is how I've re-calibrated torque wrenches in the past that have been sitting in storage. It's an option, but not one that I prefer. For anybody planning on R&Ring their wheels, it's a no brainer to grab a cheapie.

I don't tow with my Y because I have a diesel truck. I recall seeing the Tekonsha P3 works well, but cannot confirm on the Y. Great controller though.