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One more thing I want to post of note. Base audio cars can use the remote wire to turn on aftermarket amps. However Base audio can not use any of the line outs, and can only use the speaker outs, Front Left, Front RIght, Rear Left, Rear Right. Center if you want. Per original post, the front...

A original MCU1 lte and sim should still be plug and play. As long as your car has the premium connectivity included.

Confirmed! Time to start building!! Will be summing all the front. For now I will likely loose balance to rear from MCU. I'll test the front 3 output to see if they are full signal and if sub is needed. But if I need to use sub out then I will need at least a 10 channel in DSP.... My...

Actually, you and siamnet were both so close... Option 4 should still be good. Originally, I tried your posted method of using the wire and shield. But the part that didn't work was using the shield, and connecting to the ground of the amp. When I tried this I could not see any signal on my...

I'm not sure why it was recommended due to moisture, that part really threw me off. I changed mine after my 5 years of ownership and see why it should be changed. There was a lot of debris in mine. This is a picture of the one from our X. They start out white and have have some flow...

You mean like this.

Calibrate is only used on gen 3 handle, gen 2 and 1 don't have a software calibration.

Actually the one to stop the handle presenting is under the microswitch on the left side, the little silver moon is actually a T8 screw head. The red arrow one will adjust where the handle rest when retracted.

After the sleep cycle will the module work if you disconnect and reconnect the module? If so it sounds like some relays can be added to "reboot" the unit after every sleep cycle and have a working homelink without config update?

My AC system generally works well, but I do recall loosing some interior cooling while in AZ with lots of driving and Supercharging. The car had decided the battery needed to stay cooler than me and my wife. At some point I got out of the sun for a while and AC worked well for a bit, till...

There could be 2 size ducts with horns in the back. All I know is I retrofitted the ap front duct on my 13 car, the fit was not good. I didn't realize why at the time, but I suspect I have the $50 radiator in my car, and had the matching front and back ducts. To properly complete my retrofit...

Strange... I've used both recently. And currently I have a car that uses the $50 one. The first time I did this one one of my cars the entire radiator assembly along with the ducts got smashed. I ordered all new replacements, the new ducts had moved the horns into the duct so I had to move...

Also to add, the physical size of them are different and not easily interchangeable. Please dont ask why I know that... It might be a good idea to get one of the older ones to have around just in case... I've seen Tesla stop making some of the old parts, when that happens a owner will need to...

There are 2 different radiators, one for the older style cars which had the horns up near the lights, which is the $50 radiator. The newer cars that have the horn at the radiator use the $300 radiator. Some older cars may have the newer radiator system retrofitted so they would be using the...

Correct. I mean the factory reset in the mcu menu where you have to enter your account and password. It will be like a new car and you will have to re-save setting for mirrors and seat, garage etc. Basically setup car again. You can reset while in your driving profile and save it right away to...

Should not need heat, but dont think we will be fixing another one...

Ha, I just saw this thread and I was going to say don't do it and just replace it... They come apart, but its a pain. Maybe if the right tools were made they would be easier, however there is still a chance to screw up the calibration and mess it up. Oh I should have read the whole thread...

The MCU2 IC and MCU screens don't have much change... So only time will tell, There are some IC screens without the second layer, so no glue to melt. I think they Plaid has gen3 door handles, which are supposed to not fail... We see a report of a plaid owner who had 3 replacements already...

If your seeing werid issues after eMMC upgrade, try a few factory resets over a few days. Once a day for 4 days seems to resolve many of the issues of corrupted data migrated during the replacement. @mikemillar

Thanks jskenny for the smooth transaction. For everyone wondering the fsd, transferable fusc, internet, along with everything transferred without issue.

Hot Wing place now.

A few of the arms have been revised with newer versions. The older ones have sheared for some people, there are posts here from people who have had original control arm and camber arms fail.

200k miles eats the suspension up. I've pretty much done the same for my X.

The new rotor should have a hole for the bolt, if there is one sheared off on the hub, future install of new rotor aligning to the hole should prevent damage. The screw helps hold the rotor in place when calipers are removed. Be careful of the rotor falling off in that condition.

Also make sure it comes with the new wiring. Or you will need to modify your old wiring harness.

You need stalks, and the correct wheel buttons, then update the config.

Is X-care allowing non tesla certified repairs now?

I've had ice cars with a failed brake booster and it also takes a lot of force. Cars without power brakes to begin with are setup very differently. The parking/emergency brake should also be available to help in the situation.

It takes a lot of force. I didn't measure it, but when I was doing a conversion I had to move the car before the conversion was completed. a LOT of pressure was needed, I was basically standing on the pedal for a low speed stop, basically move from 1 spot to the one next to it and not much...

I've never seen the red trailer, I've seen blue whenever I tow. I do recall some early X's had a hitch but didnt purchase towing package. Some of those owners purchased the receiver to use with bike racks. Seems like you need tow mode enabled. There's a config for that.

The light will turn on when a trailer wiring adapter is plugged in. Maybe you have issues with wiring if you don't have one plugged in.

Did Tesla replace it or 3rd party? I don't think there is a active thread, however the eMMC thread has some people talking about reimbursement. AFAIK not a single one has been reimbursed. I'm aware of one that escalated at a SC and received a credit for future service from their co-pay on...

That's factory and looks ok, sounds like all your others are missing.

I realized, actually all if it is there. I had delays transferring my car due to PO credit union, DMV, and Tesla delays.

Oh WOW! well, I dont see all my data, just since April 2019, I had my car before then...

Interesting, I need to get out the measure for sure now. Was looking at a friends car today and the stance just seemed a bit off, thought I was imagining that one side of the car at the rear looked perfect and flush, the other side (passenger) looked a bit off....

You can ground pretty much anywhere on the chassis, use an existing ground stud in the area. You will likely not have the 12V connection, A constant power is needed to be able to preheat the wheel from app before you get in the car, I got power from the main distribution at battery.

Was your settings copied over, meaning if you still had your driver profile, homelink, etc? If so try doing some factory resets. One each day for a few days.

current tempmon: tegra=66 board=54 Highest I noticed, tegra=76 board=63 lowest tegra=37 board=34 The mcu actually logs the temp, part of the reason the chip was written so much. Now this is the processor and board temp. The eMMC is below the processor, and the heat sink does not touch it...

thanks, but why not direct link the post? Preventive eMMC replacement on MCU1

A 85ºC chip should be fine, and what was used for 8 years. A 105ºC should be better. 85ºC = 185ºF I've recorded dash temps over 140ºC in other cars, didn't try the S. I'll have to dig back but think I have some running temps from the mcu. I'm stating we saw the specific hynix chip used...

Correct, however the controller issue was mostly on one specific hynix chip part number, I dont have handy currently. We are expecting the Micron chip to have a better controller and more write cycles to mitigate the issues.

Does this mean my mind is in the gutter too much?

Possibly OE. Also should be possible use modified OE parts without integration.

You can ask them for a MCU2, new MCU1 likely does not exist anymore.

The chip they are using the replace is new. The rest of the Tegra board is used. It's a pretty old board and likely not manufactured anymore.

You will need to run power or upgrade to a harness that has all the connections, and may need to upgrade the fuse box. Cooling should not be an issue, ap3 is air cooled. I think the occupants would have issue with temp before the ap3 computer does.

Oh, thats a different kind of frozen, it sounds like your eMMC is on the way out. You may be experiencing many of the symptoms listed in the emmc thread, and can go to tesla for the recall. That's probably ok even if not in your name. Consolidated eMMC Thread (MCU repair) (Black Center Screen)

If your eMMC is dead, you may loose all your save settings after replacement. If reboot works you would not likely loose your settings if your memory chip is still ok. Try the fuse pull first, should be a little easier than removing the 12v and HV loop, and sufficient to reboot if mcu is ok.

Sorry, no video, but this post shows the location of the MCU fuse, try pulling that. Also it sounds like your MCU is dead or dying due to eMMC chip, you should be able to start your car if you wait after 30 seconds to a minute after the first brake press and press again while remaining in your...