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Really wish I knew that when I was on my road trip!

Keep in mind that some superchargers will limit you to only 80%. This happened to me on the way back from LA to Phoenix and it definitely affected my driving style for the rest of the trip (much slower).

I use mine all the time, almost exclusively. I back-in to my parking space to charge up so it's easy to access, and with the frunk spring modification it's super easy to close. Best of all it's the perfect size for my groceries, and the bag hooks come in very handy (sorry new buyers).

If there were dollies on the front wheels and it was lifted from the rear, then it's fine. No wheels were spun.

Stop opening up your app and hope for the best when you get back. Worst case scenario you get it towed to a charging station.

You'll have no issues. I am using wheel spacers on my car which would be equivalent to +20 offset, and they're flush.

If they don't know the size then how could they know you absolutely need adapter rings? The hub bore should be clearly stated on the manufacturer's website, and if not can be easily measured with some calipers. The Model 3 center bore is 64.1mm. It is most likely that the wheels you are trying...

10% power increase in less than a year.

Why are you considering two different tire sizes? You want all four tires to match on an AWD vehicle. That said, go with the first pair in 235/35/20 for OEM fitment.

For me it was Elon's tweet in February that the 35k version would finally be available. I had floated the idea once the first announcement for the car was made, but figured it was a pipe dream. Only 35k for a Tesla, that's crazy! Fortunately for me at the time of the tweet I was in the market...

I don't drive much, and only just went on my first real road trip (8hr each way). Steering was a breeze and the cruise control was enough for me. Basically drove the whole way just speeding up and slowing down with the scroll wheel. If I was commuting daily or regularly took long trips, then...

I'm pretty bad at parking my Model 3, mostly because the backup camera goes black whenever I need it...

100% positive something is just stuck in the fan, likely some leaves.

Here is my lowered SR+. I ended up using UP Moderate springs for the MR model, and I'm happy with it. The front end is ever so slightly higher than the rear, but I don't mind. Bought them secondhand, didn't want to wait forever for UP to "develop" the SR springs.

It almost certainly would, as the coating is very soft when compared to the factory paint.

I haven't experienced a full-premium interior, so I can't speak with any certainty. I can say, however, that just doing the rear deck speakers made a huge improvement in sound quality. The rear sub makes a good bit of difference, too, but not as noticeable of a change. Also my car was one of...

Just got the update, its great and everything works without WiFi. Was able to use TuneIn while driving, finally! SR+ with no AP or FSD. 2019.32.11.1

Thanks, just spent 45mins on the online chat but got through. Told me an update would come again within 5 days.

Just checked my March production SR+ and my fender is touching the chassis at that point, causing deep scratching. No rust because I'm in the desert, but I will try to fix it.

My SR+ is set to advanced, connected to WiFi, and it says my 2019.20.4.2 is up to date...

Yes but the wiring harness is completely different and they wouldn't work. In theory someone could figure out the wiring and use a stock amp, but it would still require just as much work, if not more

I meant under the passenger seat. To fit under a seat cushion I don't know any 5-channel amps small enough to work.

I'm really hoping for this update, I'm still stuck on 2019.20.4.2...

I would have done a video but it was just too hot and dark to make anything decent where I was working. Now fortunately this does work with the SR! The immersive sound feature (I believe) just plays with the existing speaker outputs, but I can't confirm. If you just upgrade to the rear speakers...

My 5-channel amp that I listed just BARELY fits under the seats, however I chose not to do that because I wanted a system that involved zero modifications to the interior trim and carpets.

Some electrical tape or a tied-up balloon would work well to keep water out.

Correct, but I wired my B-pillar wires to both inputs, so I can eventually get audio signal to the tweeters. Sure, I won't be able to use the fader but it's pretty well centered right now. And yes, connect the rear output to the rear shelf speakers. Also I'm waiting on a replacement plug to do...

Oh sorry I thought 'red wire driver side' meant 12v switched. Anyhow that is the correct spot for the speaker inputs, and will be tied up with a black wire. I accessed the wires both sides from the front side of the pillar.

The B-Pillar speakers are the easiest places to get left and right speaker signals for the rear deck. This is primarily because they are tied to the rear, and will operate with the fader controls. They will be taped and twisted around each other, and are quite thin. They were tough to tap into...

I was re-installing my trim today and when I jostled one of the input wires at the B-pillar I noticed some static noise. I'm assuming this is due to a bad connection at the input, may be worth looking at your connection there to make sure everything is solid. This happened with the music on mute.

Correct, all you need to do is tap for switched 12v power. You will still need to remove the plastic panels on both sides to add speaker wire for the front tweeters (which I still have been unable to do, sorry).

I would use this Alpine model: https://www.amazon.com/Alpine-KTP-445U-4-channel-Power-Amplifier/dp/B003VVYL46

I would omit the subwoofer because the fronts do a decent job. Plus this would allow me to use a much smaller amplifier that could be tucked away under the seats.

Just checked and I have no sound issues with my amp. Seems like yours may be a defective item unfortunately.

The biggest issue is not so much how many speakers there are, but where. Almost every single car on the market has rear shelf speakers, which helps give a nice surround sound experience. For some reason the SR/SR+ disabled these, and went for rear door speakers instead. These are much harder to...

I'll check mine tomorrow and see if there is any hiss from the back seats. My speaker come close to the power plugs without any noticeable interference.

Try disconnecting the 3 GND wires on the input harness. I left those disconnected for my setup. And yes, I used the penthouse connections for both power and ground.

Eventually, yes. I'm waiting on a few parts to make it happen, very busy this week. Also another small addition, but here is a photo of the rear shelf speaker connector, and why it has to be spliced:

Here is a photo of said plug at the rear. It is missing the inputs for the left and right rear deck speakers.

Actually the speakers by the mirrors and at the rear deck are NOT wired into the system, and cannot be activated through software. There are no wires leading to the rear deck speakers (missing from the connector) and only the left-side mirror speaker is wired in. The passenger side is unplugged...

For anyone curious about the process to convert your audio to full-premium, I wrote a bit of a how-to here: Upgraded SR Partial Audio to Full Premium It can be done with basic tools and was less than $500 all said and done.

The aftermarket speaker upgrade/activation requires splicing and tapping into existing wiring. For this to be an OEM-quality job, it would require a complete replacement of multiple interior wiring harnesses. If Tesla had any intention of allowing an OEM upgrade, they would have standardized the...

Yes you will still need an amp. There is not enough power to wire those up otherwise. Alpine makes a great compact amp that can actually be hidden away. This can power the A-Pillar and rear deck speakers, but not a subwoofer...

I think I just got lucky with that one!

First thing to do is remove the plastic panels on both sides. I have circled in red where there are push-clips that need to be removed. Remove this piece after removing the rear seat, both sides. Here you can see my wires being routed from the rear of the car to the front. They fit nicely...

First off a big thanks to PLUR and fstr on the TOO forum for getting a lot of this info out there, I couldn't do it without their hard work. One of the worst parts about the SR and SR+ models is their lack of true immersive sound. As stock, the sound system is incredibly front-forward...

PM sent.

What did they offer for your S2000?

I'll make a post here soon with photos of how I did it. I pulled signal from the rear door speakers (fairly easy to access).

Not true. All four of the A-pillar speakers/tweeters are disabled, as well as the two rear shelf speakers. I know because I just installed an amp and wiring to enable them.