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“Boing” noise from left front coil over. Recommendations?

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Tesla Model 3 Performance with aftermarket coil overs and sway bars.

My left front coil over has started to make a boing sound when turning the wheel after backing out of my driveway. Pretty much only does it when going from straight to full lock, at low speeds. Everything is installed per instructions; everything properly torqued.

I’ve lubed up the thust washers that the spring rests upon, both the Delrin plastic and stainless steel washers. Still made noise, so lubed up the top of the coil over where it makes contact with the top hats and rubber isolation bushings at the top of the coil overs.

Compared the preload and compression on the left versus right, no difference. But right one does not make a boing noise.

Any recommendations suggestions?
 
You should have mentioned the brand.

With MPP, you did the exact opposite of what they recommend to stop spring noise on turning. Everything has to be super clean so the spring doesn't slide on the perches. I even used 80 grit sandpaper to rough up the spring seat surfaces and perches to increase the friction level. Never any noise on mine.
 
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I had a noise from my front left suspension a while back that I also thought was coming from the coilovers (MPP). The noise happened at low speed turns and going over speed bumps. Someone suggested it was the UP sway bar bushings. Turns out they have an updated version and once I installed those the "clunk" went away and has not returned.
 
Interesting...I have KW V3, Eibach sway and Hardrace link. When I go forward slowly (usually pull out from my parking space) and make a 90deg right turn, it goes "Donk" noise, just once. Tesla won't look at it obviously last time I visit.

I was wondering whether it is the steering rack or suspension arm. Let's discuss.
 
Hi Danny,

I didn't install the suspension by myself, mind to tell me exactly which screw and I will get the installer fixed this weekend.
It's the screw in the middle of the purple composite collar.
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Danny
 
The equivalent to that Allen head on Unplugged Performance coil overs is very prone to breaking the shaft that is used to adjust the compression/rebound settings. Not sure how prone yours might be, but I’d be careful tightening that Allen head too much.

My sway bar bushings are within spec and properly lubricated. I’ll reach out to them directly because i’m sure they have had this problem and rectified it for customers that have had their equipment installed by Unplugged Performance. They have great customer service (and very well engineered components).
 
Tesla Model 3 Performance with aftermarket coil overs and sway bars.

My left front coil over has started to make a boing sound when turning the wheel after backing out of my driveway. Pretty much only does it when going from straight to full lock, at low speeds. Everything is installed per instructions; everything properly torqued.

I’ve lubed up the thust washers that the spring rests upon, both the Delrin plastic and stainless steel washers. Still made noise, so lubed up the top of the coil over where it makes contact with the top hats and rubber isolation bushings at the top of the coil overs.

Compared the preload and compression on the left versus right, no difference. But right one does not make a boing noise.

Any recommendations suggestions?

Are you backing out of your driveway straight or at an angle so one wheel is compressed while the other is drooped? I understand you're going straight but then are you going full lock to descend out of your driveway per se? My first suggestion would be to disconnect the sway bar endlinks on the left and right. Then see if the noise goes away. That way you can eliminate the bars as a contributing factor. It's not a perfect science but these are the easy things to start with in addition to what you've already done.

On a side note, it doesn't seem like UP documents recommended preload position and the ideal place to adjust ride height in their install guide so I'd definitely look into that. Critical values are the shock free lengths for both front and rear. IMO, technically the height adjustment should be done at the spring and not at the lower bracket up front. This way you can ensure that you engage the bumpstops at the right time and don't prematurely bottom out the battery pack among other things. All these shock free lengths and spring preload measurements should be documented to ensure that the installer can verify everything is correct.

Redwood does provide these measurements for their system but I don't see the same type of info on UP website for their install guide. Something like this will definitely assist with isolating things with regards to setup and install. Since most of these kits use OEM top hats it's very possible that the installer will move the collars around to make that process easier. I know you've compared left to right but would be good to have numbers to verify that they are in the correct position.

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The equivalent to that Allen head on Unplugged Performance coil overs is very prone to breaking the shaft that is used to adjust the compression/rebound settings. Not sure how prone yours might be, but I’d be careful tightening that Allen head too much.

My sway bar bushings are within spec and properly lubricated. I’ll reach out to them directly because i’m sure they have had this problem and rectified it for customers that have had their equipment installed by Unplugged Performance. They have great customer service (and very well engineered components).

Danny's recommendation will not apply to your UP coilovers. You guys are referring to two different items. I just want to clarify this for other people that might be reading and get confused.

KW uses a single spring perch with a "set screw" to lock the collar into place. UP however you uses a spring perch and a locking collar without any set screw.
 
My MPP Sports "ping" every once in a while under hard driving. I really don't care. We install these parts to give the car character - character we get. If it was doing it every turn of the wheel then yeah, I'd be a little annoyed. But it's really infrequent. And when passengers ask "what's that?" I just get to brag about my sikh m0dz.
 
Fairly common issue not specific to Model 3’s or brand. The boing sound is the spring binding on the perch and isn’t able to rotate smoothly. Some people had success cleaning up everything real good with brake cleaner. Sometimes the lube causes the binding. There’s a longer thread on this somewhere.