benji4
Roadster 2.5 #0476
1) Need to have the Sport version of the Roadster
2) Performance tires
3) Hard top on the car
4) No passenger obviously, and driver should be as light as possible (130 lbs. would be good!)
5) Dry, warm weather
6) Charge the car fully in performance charge mode, wait an hour or so after done charging
7) Set drive mode to peformance
8) Warm the car up with a few practice laps
9) Turn T/C off
10) From a stop, depress the accelerator to the floor as quickly as possible without causing the tires to spin, and hold it there until your speed hits 100km/h.
This should get you close to 3.7 sec. I wish the VDS had a timer for this on it.
Last edited:
benji4
Roadster 2.5 #0476
Sorry, forgot! T/C off. Fixed above.... It's a long checklist. I think this is why a lot of car reviews don't hit it.
I've never tried it, but I've read that when the TC is off and you go full throttle the rear wheels spin uncontrollably.
benji4
Roadster 2.5 #0476
You probably have to test this for yourself... That's the one bit of skill I think it takes in the whole process (other than trying to remember all of those things on the checklist!). If you have T/C on, the computer takes care of the spin problem for you, but it can't do so 100% efficiently and will thus slow down your sprint just a tad -- safely of course. If you have T/C off, then your brain becomes the computer and if it does a perfect job of controlling the acceleration without spinning should be able to beat the car's computer. Less safely of course because people do make mistakes!
Not quite the same as this quote from you before:
"10) From a stop, depress the accelerator to the floor and hold it there until your speed hits 100km/h"
"10) From a stop, depress the accelerator to the floor and hold it there until your speed hits 100km/h"
benji4
Roadster 2.5 #0476
benji4
Roadster 2.5 #0476
No, I have a base Roadster unfortunately! Also -- I have normal tires, I don't charge in performance mode, I don't have the hardtop, I'm too heavy (195 lbs.), and the weather has generally been too cold since my car arrived about a month ago. Oh, and I leave T/C on most of the time too. So unfortunately, I'm not a 3.7 sec. candidate.
mpt
Electrics are back
I think that you need to pre-load the transmission as well:
Place left foot on brake to hold car back and depress accelerator to take the tension out of the transmission, release foot brake.
This allows you to launch with your foot already partially down as well.
In my classic 2.0 (i.e. non-sport) on regular tires I'm unable to spin the wheels on dry flat tarmac with TC off. It just squats down at the back and voom!
Place left foot on brake to hold car back and depress accelerator to take the tension out of the transmission, release foot brake.
This allows you to launch with your foot already partially down as well.
In my classic 2.0 (i.e. non-sport) on regular tires I'm unable to spin the wheels on dry flat tarmac with TC off. It just squats down at the back and voom!
TEG
Teslafanatic
- Aug 20, 2006
- 21,719
- 8,690
As I recall from being at the dragstrip once comparing a bunch of Roadsters:
The 130lb driver with TC off, using the best pedal technique is likely to do about .3s quicker than the 200lb+ driver with TC on, just switching from brake to accelerator.
In any case, it is all fun. You are just trying to eek out that last tenth.
- Having TC off makes a slight difference (perhaps .1s)
- The battery SOC and temp also make a bit of difference, but a bit complicated. (Some things seem to do best when almost overheated.)
- Holding the brake and accelerator pedal at once and doing a "loaded up launch" is also good for perhaps .1s
- The weight of the driver definitely makes a difference.
The 130lb driver with TC off, using the best pedal technique is likely to do about .3s quicker than the 200lb+ driver with TC on, just switching from brake to accelerator.
In any case, it is all fun. You are just trying to eek out that last tenth.
Turning traction control off makes a huge difference, I feel strongly that it is a lot more than 0.1 second. I will test the next time I have dry roads.
I never did the two footed start.
The times were better with a warmer battery.
From my several times at Portland International Raceway doing drag racing the track conditions make a huge difference - varying the 1/4 mile times of my 2.0 non-sport between 12.9 and 13.3 seconds.
The runs in the 12.9s correspond to 0-60s a hair under 4.0 seconds according to the log files I pulled. ( Its hard to be sure because the log files only have a resolution of 1 second )
Of course you want a nice hot and dry track. But a surprising good factor was the diesel club running before us. The big dirty trucks put a lot of rubber onto the track, helping the grip.
I never did the two footed start.
The times were better with a warmer battery.
From my several times at Portland International Raceway doing drag racing the track conditions make a huge difference - varying the 1/4 mile times of my 2.0 non-sport between 12.9 and 13.3 seconds.
The runs in the 12.9s correspond to 0-60s a hair under 4.0 seconds according to the log files I pulled. ( Its hard to be sure because the log files only have a resolution of 1 second )
Of course you want a nice hot and dry track. But a surprising good factor was the diesel club running before us. The big dirty trucks put a lot of rubber onto the track, helping the grip.
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