-
Want to remove ads? Register an account and login to see fewer ads, and become a Supporting Member to remove almost all ads.
08 roadster alignment specs?
- Thread starter chris22104
- Start date
-
- Tags
- Roadster
-This post- has some of the info you're looking for, I believe.
I'd recommend reading through that whole thread -- it has lots of good info on suspension and alignment setup, road vs. track, feedback post-adjustment, etc. etc.
I'd recommend reading through that whole thread -- it has lots of good info on suspension and alignment setup, road vs. track, feedback post-adjustment, etc. etc.
http://www.hcsharp.com/tesla/roadsterAlignSpecs/AlignSpecs.htm
Before you start be sure to get some of the shims.
Fabrizio
Member
These specs are in the owners manual. You can download the manual from the Tesla site if you don't have the hard copy.
djp
Model 3 Performance
My alignment was off after I upgraded to the adjustable suspension, with the most noticable problem being an off-centre steering wheel. The Toronto Service Centre is completely swamped so I took the car to Can Alignment (Scott Murfin) in Millgrove. Scott is known as THE alignment specialist in southern Ontario with a great reputation in the track and auto-cross community. After a couple of minutes on a laser alignment jig Scott found the rear alignment was out of spec, which was throwing the steering wheel left of centre. It was a quick and easy fix and the car is tracking perfectly now.
The only problem is I didn't take hcsharp's advice to bring some shims along. The rear camber is also slightly off which will need a few shims to correct, I'll need to line up a second trip to finish the job.
The only problem is I didn't take hcsharp's advice to bring some shims along. The rear camber is also slightly off which will need a few shims to correct, I'll need to line up a second trip to finish the job.
smorgasbord
Active Member
Had an alignment done on my Roadster today. Here's where we ended up:
I'm a bit worried about the cross-castor, which at -0.4 is beyond the -0.35 spec limit. Apparently, to fix it is a lot of work, removing washers from the A-arms. Is this something I should really do, however?
Any other comments on where the car is?
I'm a bit worried about the cross-castor, which at -0.4 is beyond the -0.35 spec limit. Apparently, to fix it is a lot of work, removing washers from the A-arms. Is this something I should really do, however?
Any other comments on where the car is?
wiztecy
Active Member
I'm showing on my last alignment sheet that the cross-caster specified range is: -0.4 - 0.4 degrees. Curious why yours was flagged. My cross-caster came out to be -0.5 which is -0.1 out of spec. Nothing too crazy out of spec so I'm not worried.
Here's a thread on a different forum talking about the cross-caster, the second post has all the good info:
Uneven Caster - MY350Z.COM Forums
Here's a thread on a different forum talking about the cross-caster, the second post has all the good info:
Uneven Caster - MY350Z.COM Forums
Last edited:
smorgasbord
Active Member
As I said, Tesla's spec is under (over) -0.35 degrees, so I'm 5/100 of a degree out. Certainly not out by a lot, but it will make the car veer to the right a bit....
What's your reason for having the camber so far negative on the front? A lot of roadsters were shipped with -0.5 deg in front which is already out of spec, but -.8 and .9? Trying to reduce understeer?
Rear camber of -2.4 and -2.2 will wear your tires a lot quicker than -1.8. I didn't notice any better handling at -2.4 than I did at -1.8 but I didn't exactly time it on a track.
I think you should fix the cross-castor. Nothing beats a little quality time with your Roadster.:biggrin:
smorgasbord
Active Member
The rear camber was the first thing I tried. It really helped handling. I drive twisty mountain roads everyday, so if anything it might help tire wear (I think I have a picture of my worn rear tires, I'll have to check). But, I may try less rear camber after your recommendation.
On the front, I was only able to get to -0.4 and thought more would help.
The cross-caster thing might cost me to address.
How are you-all doing alignments? Paying a shop gets costly really quickly.
wiztecy
Active Member
I know going -0.5 camber up front was very noticeable. Every since I had my adjustable suspension installed, the front became very light and plowed when accelerating into a turn. Going -0.5 so I'm at -1.0 is the sweet spot for my Roadster. I have to say that every bit of negative camber does help. I'm at -2.0 and -2.2 on the rears for camber. That -0.2 is noticeable in tire wear on the inside edge. However both the right and left tires are flat slicks across the center, so it really doesn't matter much with having the -0.2 in terms of killing the right tire faster than the left. They both need to be replaced. I'd like to bring all my camber settings to be exact, meaning the rears left and right at either -2.2 or -2.0 and the front both at -1.0 degrees. It may be just me but I like keeping everything symmetrical so it feels the same going into a left or right turn.
If you like the feel of your rear camber at -2.4 and -2.2, keep it there. I'm thinking you'll be fine with tire wear. My Roadster stock must have been -2.7 or more back there, it ate the sides up pretty well at 12,500 miles.
As for feeling the difference on the rear camber, you may be able to feel it slightly. But where you really feel it is when and where in the turn the back end breaks loose. It should hold the turn longer before reaching the breaking point, but keep in mind you have more forces building up in the rear, so when it does break free it will be very quick and very intense.
If you like the feel of your rear camber at -2.4 and -2.2, keep it there. I'm thinking you'll be fine with tire wear. My Roadster stock must have been -2.7 or more back there, it ate the sides up pretty well at 12,500 miles.
As for feeling the difference on the rear camber, you may be able to feel it slightly. But where you really feel it is when and where in the turn the back end breaks loose. It should hold the turn longer before reaching the breaking point, but keep in mind you have more forces building up in the rear, so when it does break free it will be very quick and very intense.
Similar threads
