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1. Garbage, of course, on the first item.By the way. One guy at a shop told me my "Lotus" was required to have run flat tires and would not install anything but those.
I have air settings at 30F 40R as Tesla recommends.
Does it make sense to have version 2.0 covered by this thread, or by the 2.5 thread, or is there any reason for it to be separated by itself?
My guess was that 2.0 and 2.5 should be included together. Are there any known tire related differences 2.0->2.5?
I just don't know about 2.0 and 2.5 cars. I would imagine the issues related to tires are:I agree... I don't think there is any difference between 2.0 and 2.5 in terms of tires.
Once the 1.5 gets "unhappy" with T/C during deceleration (regen) on non-standard (i.e. non-recommended) tires, it seems to never really get completely back to normal ... unless .... IOW, the loss of regen (T/C blinking) happens for at least a few miles each time after startup ... unless you intervene. That's where I think the air adjustment helps. You could go another +/-1 psi in each F/R to reduce the delta another 2 psi. Eventually you'll find your tires' and Roadster's personal "happy" spot :smile:I'm curious if it was the air adjustment or if it would have learned the Falkens in time. Thanks again to (C.I.)
How many miles did you drive in each case ? Did you check tire pressures at each start-up ? Have you tried the 33F/35R setting yet, or even 35 all around ? (Naturally these are cold pressures ... up to 75F at the tires; but all four should move reasonably in sync. (Exception: LR might get a degree or three warmer due to removal of heat from PEM/Motor.))Continuing saga. So the next morning at 7:00AM everything was "broken" again. [outside temp was 60] The same no regen and TC light on all the time on deceleration. The next drive at 11:00 [temp at 80] it did not get better. Another drive at 3:00 [temp 90] it never 'fixed' itself.
bummed.
How many miles did you drive in each case ? Did you check tire pressures at each start-up ? Have you tried the 33F/35R setting yet, or even 35 all around ? (Naturally these are cold pressures ... up to 75F at the tires; but all four should move reasonably in sync. (Exception: LR might get a degree or three warmer due to removal of heat from PEM/Motor.))
My theory: Yoko Advan Neova AD07 is a much softer compound. Lowering pressure on R (Falkens) makes up for it a little. Increasing pressure in F tires helps even-out the T/C's confusion of mismatched F/R speed sensors. None of this takes rpm (revs-per-mile) into account. I don't know how your Falkens compare to Yokos in that regard. You might want to post that data here.
Don't know the answer to that one. But the 1.5 never really learns (memorizes) the "fix" unless you help it along.
Do people believe that the 2.0/2.5s do a good job learning new types of tires? I've only used the AD07s so far.
Grrrr.Yes, it works very well. I've switched my 2.0 to Toyo Proxes T1R and am very happy with them.