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100% drive unit failure rate??
- Thread starter yobigd20
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- Driving Dynamics Model S
SethDiamond
Member
Your comment is fascinating. Thank you for sharing!
Good luck with the "Saving" part of the equation... don't be hesitant to look at a Certified Pre-owned.
Good luck with the "Saving" part of the equation... don't be hesitant to look at a Certified Pre-owned.
Might be V3 by Christmas! But I hope all the swapping of refurbs was to buy time to really figure out a permanent fix. I wonder if they adequately tested dynamic loads on the original motor before production. They may have had to do the necessary redesign, and then test it better.
If the motor problem was just production variance they would probably would have sorted it out faster.
This is how mine was prior to replacement. Easily audible in the car with the windows closed, radio on, etc. I drove through Santa Barbara one day and I got a lot of weird looks. There were many Teslas but mine was the only one hissing/grinding.
Definitely call and push them on it. It's bad publicity every time you drive past a potential Tesla buyer.
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That's a new part number for a P drive unit. My August replacement was 1025598-00-P.
FWIW, someone back in July had their DU replaced with the same part number. I'm skeptical that this is a V2 as it shares the same part number and we know now that the revision goes up to -Q. The -P you have is certainly not the most recent component available.
See: Drive unit, new or refurbishishid? - Page 3
Had my drive unit replaced yesterday. Vin 45XXX, MS85 delivered 7/2014. 19517 miles at the time of the replacement. Part No. 1002633-00-Q. My car had developed the "milling" sound beginning at around 16000 miles, and it got progressively worse. It was very loud yesterday morning when I went in for my appointment. FWIW, there are 10 Model S cars where I work, and 6 of them have now had DUs replaced. 3 of the 6 have had more than one replacement. IMO this continues to be a major problem for Tesla.
LoL Rick
Like Buttah
For those that had their drive units replaced, how long did it take before the repair was approved by Tesla? Mine was recorded by the service center last Wednesday and the recording sent to engineering. 8 days later I haven't heard anything. Before you ask - I haven't called either. I'm waiting to see if that stellar Tesla service comes through. So far I'm less than impressed.
On my 1st DU replacement they told me the day of the appointment or the following day that it would be replaced, however it took 3 months to for the DU replacement to arrive. Another couple of weeks beyond that to get booked in for an appointment.
I'm about to have my 2nd DU replaced. I just emailed asking for an update and was told "a few more weeks". If true, this one will arrive in about 1/2 the time as the last.
Mine didn't require any particular approvals that I'm aware of. I went by the SC on my way to work and went for a drive with the shop foreman. After about 100 yards on the street he nodded his head and said "yeah, that's the DU, not a sound we like to hear...", or something fairly close to that. There was no recording of the sound. He told me it would take 2 or 3 weeks to get the parts in, and that I would get a call to schedule an appointment. The service advisor called that afternoon and set an appointment for just over 3 weeks away, which was yesterday, when they replaced it.
Gizmotoy
Active Member
Have you talked to them lately? Sounds like they forgot about you. Time to check back in, I think.
I got approved for a replacement around this time a year ago, and eventually had the DU replaced once the backlog cleared in early February.
a day or two at most. usually i call, make the appt, go to the appt, drive the tech in it, tech confirms milling noise, car is immediately scheduled for drive unit replacement, usually scheduled within a few days. so pretty fast.
The part number is the same as the older Drive units only the last letter is different that specify revision. And Q is the latest revision last time i looked in the part catalog.
But have been changes to rotor/stator in the latest revisions according to the part catalog.
Gizmotoy
Active Member
That parts catalog screenshot listed several part numbers (not just revisions). Seems that many people were getting a 102xxx unit where M and newer were post-AP, but I got a 100xxx unit for my replacement back in February.
Edit: To be clear, I have a 1002633-01-M in my car now. Others are getting something like 1025276-00-K, and on that 1025276 part we know that M and later is AP. There's also 1056680 and 1025598, and 1056681.
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Gizmotoy
Active Member
Entirely plausible, though I wonder why there are so many different refurb part numbers whereas just the one (well, two) new part.
Just in case people haven't seen this about SKF, Tesla, and ceramic motor bearings:
Tesla Model S Makes Use Of SKF Ceramic Motor Bearings - Video
Tesla Model S Makes Use Of SKF Ceramic Motor Bearings - Video
That video is 1+ years old. Comments below it are interesting to follow too... "13% motor failure rate"
Anyway, just knowing SKF sticks their name on it and makes a video like this is comforting.. Glad Tesla did not go with Joe's Bearings, or try to do their own.
Their CEO is featured in the video! SKF will get it right if their part is going to be in the car.
Anyway, just knowing SKF sticks their name on it and makes a video like this is comforting.. Glad Tesla did not go with Joe's Bearings, or try to do their own.
Their CEO is featured in the video! SKF will get it right if their part is going to be in the car.
If current transfers through a sphere, all the current will pass through one very small point where the sphere makes contact with something else. At that point, it is effectively passing through a very small diameter wire. Large currents passing through a small wire will cause a lot of heating in the wire and can cause the wire to melt. That's why you want bigger gauge wire for high current applications. For low current applications like wiring in a cell phone, or some other low current device, you will find very fine wires. But in the walls of your house you're going to find much larger wires. In a car's electrical system, even an ICE, the wires that carry a lot of current are huge. Even a 12V car battery can produce a lot of current starting an ICE.
Because of the heating at the tiny point where the high current is passing through, the metal can actually burn leaving a tiny hole. These points are so small you probably can't see them with the naked eye, but you probably could with a decent magnifier glass.
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