110v connector

[vandacca]

If I remember my electricity lessons correctly, there are a few ways of measuring electricity. You can use peak voltage or you can use RMS (root-mean-square) voltage. While peak voltage is interesting, it's pretty meaningless and RMS voltage is more useful for determining "useful" power comparisons.

Seems like we have the two systems being used interchangeably without any explicit indicator - of course, one should be able to infer which one is being referenced.

 

[Haskell99]

110 and 220 volt references drive me crazy . If your only seeing 110 or 220 volts you need an electrician to come find out why you are getting such a large volt drop.

220... 221. Whatever it takes.

 

[Jrogville]

220... 221. Whatever it takes.

Their are actually many utilities that use 208 volts. Nothing rare about it, it just depends on your region. Higher voltage just means lower line loses. For the wiring from your transformer to your house, those loses are insignificant. Of course, the higher the voltage, the higher rate of miles per hour charge given the same amperage, so I'm glad I have 240 volts, myself....

 

[TexasEV]

Their are actually many utilities that use 208 volts. Nothing rare about it, it just depends on your region. Higher voltage just means lower line loses. For the wiring from your transformer to your house, those loses are insignificant. Of course, the higher the voltage, the higher rate of miles per hour charge given the same amperage, so I'm glad I have 240 volts, myself....

Generally 208V is commercial power and 240V is residential power.

 

[boaterva]

Generally 208V is commercial power and 240V is residential power.

Exactly. 208 is one leg of 3-phase power, and 240 is residential, where you get 120 from one leg to neutral, or 240 using the two 'hot' wires together. (If I recall my old EE power diagrams correctly.... )

(If you look at the HPWC manual, there is a DIP switch to allow it to use 208 power.)

 

[jpl]

110 and 220 volt references drive me crazy . If your only seeing 110 or 220 volts you need an electrician to come find out why you are getting such a large volt drop.

My latest attempt at charging from a "ordinary" home outlet was much more successful, again, with thanks to this forum. But I'm puzzled by the voltages reported on the app. Neither 110 nor 120, but consistently closer to 110 than 120. I doubt that this requires a visit from an electrician. Is the app wrong? Is something producing a large drop? Has the app driven you crazy :-? Curious minds want to know.

 

[Saghost]

My latest attempt at charging from a "ordinary" home outlet was much more successful, again, with thanks to this forum. But I'm puzzled by the voltages reported on the app. Neither 110 nor 120, but consistently closer to 110 than 120. I doubt that this requires a visit from an electrician. Is the app wrong? Is something producing a large drop? Has the app driven you crazy :-? Curious minds want to know.
View attachment 224417 View attachment 224418

That's the voltage at the car under high current load.

If you sit in the car and use the touch screen to start the charge session, you can watch the no load voltage (which should be close to 120V) drop as the car loads the circuit up.

Your car remembers the no load voltage, and will reduce the current draw automatically if the drop becomes too great, allowing you to charge safely from circuits that have issues.

The car also monitors the waveform, though I'm not 100% sure why.

 

[jpl]

On an only slightly related topic (I searched assorted forums/fora), it would seem that the iPhone Tesla app has everything it needs to record KwH when charging. I'm primarily interested in tracking charging from my 240V (I'm trainable outlet that I use almost every day, but it would be fun to track when I'm using somebody's 120V (I.t. outlet, or a supercharger. There have been recent references to a PowerWall app in conjunction with the Tesla app, but I don't have a PowerWall, so it's not clear that will help. I'd like to know the effect on my monthly electric bill, and how I might compensate those who allow me to use their outlets.

 

[verygreen]

On an only slightly related topic (I searched assorted forums/fora), it would seem that the iPhone Tesla app has everything it needs to record KwH when charging. I'm primarily interested in tracking charging from my 240V (I'm trainable outlet that I use almost every day, but it would be fun to track when I'm using somebody's 120V

The app only has a momentary snapshot so it cannot really tell you usage as is.
The car actually remembers this sort of thing and displays it to you in a somwehat coarse increments under the guise of "miles added".
You just take those miles-added, multiply it by your rated miles wh number and then by the inefficiency coefficient (15% or so for HPWC, probably even more for the 110V).
For 110V you can also buy a P3 P4400 Kill A Watt Electricity Usage Monitor - Low Temperature Alarms - Amazon.com like device and use it as the meter.

You can also use things like visual tesla or some cloud services that monitor battery state for you and see how many actual kWh were added to the battery - more fine grained than the miles-added display in the car, but again, the inefficiency conversion would need to be guessed somehow.

 

[jpl]

Thanks, @verygreen! I'd plunk down the bucks for a 240V kill a watt, if it existed. I only use 120V in desperate conditions, since 3mi/hour won't take me very far. I'm as ignorant about apps as I am about amps, but when I watch the app, it seems to be reacting quickly to changes in voltage. A momentary snapshot (he said, unencumbered by facts) should be enough to accumulate decent estimates over "many moments". I don't need 5 digits of precision. I'd be happy to be able to get a rough estimate of KwH, primarily for the 240V outlet where I regularly keep the X charged, but if that were possible, rates from other sources would be welcome, too.

 

[gabeincal]

I guess the only thing that I haven't seen mentioned @jpl is that if you're really desperate for power on a roadtrip, you can go to an RV / campsite and use their RV connectors to charge your car up so you can get to a decent charger later on.
For that, you'll need the UMC and an adapter that you have in your goodie bag.

Sooo... Don't leave that bag home

 

[jpl]

Thanks, @gabeincal. I've gotten wiser (there was lots of room) about what to bring on a trip (including the cable I thought of as a simple connector to my 240V wall plug). My most recent problem has been the lack of fast-ish chargers in Morgantown, WV. And supercharge.info makes it look like that will cease to be a problem in a month or so. But I'm also interested in how my electric bill at home has been influenced by the Model X (hopefully, less than my gasoline bill before I had the X), and how I might fairly compensate good Samaritans who let me use their power.

 

[verygreen]

Thanks, @verygreen! I'd plunk down the bucks for a 240V kill a watt, if it existed. I only use 120V in desperate conditions, since 3mi/hour won't take me very far. I'm as ignorant about apps as I am about amps, but when I watch the app, it seems to be reacting quickly to changes in voltage. A momentary snapshot (he said, unencumbered by facts) should be enough to accumulate decent estimates over "many moments". I don't need 5 digits of precision. I'd be happy to be able to get a rough estimate of KwH, primarily for the 240V outlet where I regularly keep the X charged, but if that were possible, rates from other sources would be welcome, too.

Well, for reimbursing others we can assume you are actively charging there at all times so you can use this good enough rule of thumb assuming the charge is at it's highest:
so 120V outlet is 115*12 = 1.3kWh per every hour you are charging somewhere.
For 240V it becomes 240 * 40 = 9.6kWh per every hour.

At home just multiply number of miles added by your rated miles wh (324 for 100D) and that should be close enough.

You can also get one of those devices where you clamp around a wire and it takes the readings for you, something like this: Fluke 323 True-RMS Clamp Meter: Fluke Multimeter: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

Or I guess you can install a real permanent meter so you have a lifetime measurement you can always get to.