Weirdly my PEM motor had almost seized and was probably pulling a lot more power for some time.
Good data point! I've been measuring the current draw over the past month or so, and it's been very stable and sane. Peter at Gruber ran a quick amps vs volts test on a blower there, and my results match his, so the motor and bearings appear to be healthy. I opted to not replace the blower assembly, as that would tread into that magical "fixing something that's not broken" territory, where unforeseen consequences lay.
If one suspects that the excessive current draw from the blower is the cause of a connector contact failure, it's easy to wire up an in-line ammeter, as the connectors under the car are easily accessed "F" style (0.250 blade), once the connectors are separated. Note that some of the LCD meters available online don't start working at under about 7 volts, and a normal top-off charge at 240v, 24 amps, 25C ambient, runs at between 6.5 and 7.0 volts, with each side supplying about 3.5 amps (6-7 amps or so total), and lasts about 7 minutes. There are meters that can use an external supply for running the meter's display for situations like this. Unfortunately, I didn't realize this when I bought mine, so I had to splice in a different meter that could work at the lower voltage for my monitoring.