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12 volt battery options

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No... not very helpful, really. If you have anything concrete to add about how or where I can purchase a better battery than the Continental or a Hankook one, then please do so. I don't believe I ever asked who was "marketing" them.
I have spoken with this particular advisor a lot over the last year, and have found that what he says generally is, or comes true. Almost always. I trust what he tells me generally, you're opinion aside.
I would be more likely to NOT believe a poster on an internet chat site on any information about cooperate decisions that areway above their pay grade. His opinion would be worse than pure speculation... it would just be a pontificating, trying to be self important, and lecture others, with no basis in fact whatsoever.
 
No, I don't think they will cover it under warranty. Subwoofer upgrade, though it's tied into the inverter, not directly to the battery. Never an error code. Never a drain. Technically should not be affecting the 12 volt at all.
I expected a little less life on the 12 volt, but not this much less. And as I said, had planned on Ohmu when it was time. I don't really care about the warranty, don't mind purchasing one, just wanted a better one.
I talked to the Tesla service advisor about the changed BMS settings, rendering Ohmu batteries non-functional. He confirmed that it was NOT a byproduct of another software update, but instead, a purposely executed plan to stop people from purchasing Ohmu batteries....lost revenue fur Tesla, obviously. This tells me that the Ohmu situation won't get solved, no matter how many signatures they get on their petition. He just smirked, and told me that the only way to get a LiOn 12-volt is to trade the car in for a newer model. There are no plans fur Tesla to offer one for older models. I told him thanks, but if I DID trade my Tesla, it wouldn't be for another Tesla.
So...looks like I'm purchasing another 12 volt battery from the Continental Tire Company. Sigh.
Oh, and if it IS a rebranded battery from Continental, can anyone tell me, with certainty, who makes it?
The old price for the 12V MF lead-acid battery from Tesla, not including installation, was $85 plus tax. All roads point to Hankook AtlasBX. "Hankook AtlasBX is a pioneer in the battery industry for the past 75 years, challenging the quality and quantitative growth of the battery industry in Korea."
 
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Thanks. Looking into the general merits of both. Still hard to believe there's so little to choose from. Seems that if I need a center console organizer, I can choose from literally hundreds. But a 12 volt battery? Not so much...LOL
 
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I just hit 2 years on my OEM 12v battery and scheduled a mobile service appt. for replacement - quoted $110.40 total. At that price it's worth the peace of mind as I have a long road trip planned in Sep and this desert heat eats batteries quickly. Had considered the OHMMU but considering the price and possible trouble with software updates it's not worth it.
OK apparently I'm super in touch with my car's needs :) Scheduled service to get my battery replaced as indicated above, tech should be here any minute now, and just received this error (now a warranty issue):
IMG_1122.jpeg
 
Come down off the horse and stop the self important pontificating.
Such as this?:
lost revenue fur Tesla, obviously.
That is just your unhelpful speculation. It is almost certain that is not the reason. Charging only $85 for the batteries is a really good deal, and is not really much of a profit for them. But the previous part that the service advisor actually told you is probably true:
I talked to the Tesla service advisor about the changed BMS settings, rendering Ohmu batteries non-functional. He confirmed that it was NOT a byproduct of another software update, but instead, a purposely executed plan to stop people from purchasing Ohmu batteries
More generally, it's not about that brand or company, but more about putting in a different category of battery type that is not suited to the recharging algorithms that those cars use. The detection and recharging behaviors suited to lead acid battery types are not well suited to what li ion batteries need. People are trying to fit a round peg into a square hole, which is going to have some issues. So Tesla is understandably doing some to discourage that.
 
July 18th will be my 4th year with the car. I received a message on June 30 about a battery issue. Tesla mobile service came out the same day and changed it out at no charge. Apparently there is a parts shortage but the technician was able to find one. I was prepared to pay but no charge sounds better.
 
I have to admit that I'm really ticked-off about this. Where I live, the 12V batteries in my ICE cars last less than 4 years. So I always replace them at 3 years regardless of what a battery test says at the shop. And since lead acid batteries last less in a Tesla (due to the different load/cycle characteristics) I was fully ready to replace the OEM battery at my year 1 point (October 2022).

So now Tesla has changed their firmware to disallow an Ohmmu battery. And I can't use the new Tesla 15V lithium battery in my 2021 MYLR either (because of the impact to other subsystems). OK Tesla, then just make a lithium battery with a big TESLA logo on it that I can put in my MYLR. I'll gladly pay $600 just to get rid of the lead acid battery that I know is going to fail soon and without warning (despite the "1 month" popup message). I don't care if the lead acid battery is under warranty, I don't want to get stranded somewhere with a dead car because the 12V battery failed. And if the 12V battery is dead, the car is bricked -- single point failure.

At least now I know what to use my frunk for: put in several lead acid batteries wired in parallel so that when one fails, I still have some more in-line. Or better yet, ignore the NHTSA requirement for a secondary energy source, disconnect the 12V charging circuit, and use this DC/DC instead tapped off of the 400V battery: https://www.ti.com/lit/pdf/tiduey2,...eats | tow | no FSD | made/delivered Oct 2021
 
I just tested the 12V lead acid battery in my 2020 LRMY. It still tests good after 2 years. I will test it again in 6 months.

If you keep a 12V lithium battery jump starter at home (the jump starters currently cost starting at ~$50) and bring the jump starter on trips you should be able to unlock the Tesla vehicle, power up in the event the 12V fails. A 9 volt battery or an A23 12V battery will enable you to release the frunk hood latch.
 
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I have to admit that I'm really ticked-off about this. Where I live, the 12V batteries in my ICE cars last less than 4 years. So I always replace them at 3 years regardless of what a battery test says at the shop. And since lead acid batteries last less in a Tesla (due to the different load/cycle characteristics) I was fully ready to replace the OEM battery at my year 1 point (October 2022).

So now Tesla has changed their firmware to disallow an Ohmmu battery. And I can't use the new Tesla 15V lithium battery in my 2021 MYLR either (because of the impact to other subsystems). OK Tesla, then just make a lithium battery with a big TESLA logo on it that I can put in my MYLR. I'll gladly pay $600 just to get rid of the lead acid battery that I know is going to fail soon and without warning (despite the "1 month" popup message). I don't care if the lead acid battery is under warranty, I don't want to get stranded somewhere with a dead car because the 12V battery failed. And if the 12V battery is dead, the car is bricked -- single point failure.

At least now I know what to use my frunk for: put in several lead acid batteries wired in parallel so that when one fails, I still have some more in-line. Or better yet, ignore the NHTSA requirement for a secondary energy source, disconnect the 12V charging circuit, and use this DC/DC instead tapped off of the 400V battery: https://www.ti.com/lit/pdf/tiduey2,...eats | tow | no FSD | made/delivered Oct 2021
Just have mobile service replace it every 2 years for $110 to be safe, should be fine.
 
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So now Tesla has changed their firmware to disallow an Ohmmu battery. And I can't use the new Tesla 15V lithium battery in my 2021 MYLR either (because of the impact to other subsystems). OK Tesla, then just make a lithium battery with a big TESLA logo on it that I can put in my MYLR. I'll gladly pay $600 just to get rid of the lead acid battery that I know is going to fail soon and without warning (despite the "1 month" popup message). I don't care if the lead acid battery is under warranty, I don't want to get stranded somewhere with a dead car because the 12V battery failed. And if the 12V battery is dead, the car is bricked -- single point failure.
IMHO Tesla really dropped the ball on this.
 
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I have to admit that I'm really ticked-off about this. Where I live, the 12V batteries in my ICE cars last less than 4 years. So I always replace them at 3 years regardless of what a battery test says at the shop. And since lead acid batteries last less in a Tesla (due to the different load/cycle characteristics) I was fully ready to replace the OEM battery at my year 1 point (October 2022).

So now Tesla has changed their firmware to disallow an Ohmmu battery. And I can't use the new Tesla 15V lithium battery in my 2021 MYLR either (because of the impact to other subsystems). OK Tesla, then just make a lithium battery with a big TESLA logo on it that I can put in my MYLR. I'll gladly pay $600 just to get rid of the lead acid battery that I know is going to fail soon and without warning (despite the "1 month" popup message). I don't care if the lead acid battery is under warranty, I don't want to get stranded somewhere with a dead car because the 12V battery failed. And if the 12V battery is dead, the car is bricked -- single point failure.

At least now I know what to use my frunk for: put in several lead acid batteries wired in parallel so that when one fails, I still have some more in-line. Or better yet, ignore the NHTSA requirement for a secondary energy source, disconnect the 12V charging circuit, and use this DC/DC instead tapped off of the 400V battery: https://www.ti.com/lit/pdf/tiduey2,...eats | tow | no FSD | made/delivered Oct 2021
The firmware doesn't disallow Ohmmu. Tesla has been tinkering with the voltage charge levels and the BMC in the Ohmmu would isolate the battery for a few minutes as a precaution. Ohmmu has a revised prototype now in testing in about 20 vehicles. Contact them for information. They are being cautious about the testing before going into wide release as this will be version 4 battery and the V3 they thought would work did not and threw messages. For some warning and messages in a few days for me about a month. While waiting, I opted for a 51R AGM rather than the AtlasBX even though some will defend the factory battery till the end. I have had an AGM for about 2 months now no warnings or messages in Notifications. I check after each drive.
 
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I went with the Orielly 51R. When the Ohmmu V4 is out I will switch back.
Interesting. The battery posts on the Orielly 51R AGM battery appear to be reversed (positive post on the forward facing right, negative post on the forward facing left) compared with the AtlasBX battery (positive post on the left, negative post on the right side of the battery). Did this cause any issue when installing, attaching the Tesla battery cables?

What was the installed price of the Orielly 51R battery?
 
Interesting. The battery posts on the Orielly 51R AGM battery appear to be reversed (positive post on the forward facing right, negative post on the forward facing left) compared with the AtlasBX battery (positive post on the left, negative post on the right side of the battery). Did this cause any issue when installing, attaching the Tesla battery cables?

What was the installed price of the Orielly 51R battery?