I use that the 3M lock stuff like what EZPass uses. I stick it on the top of the visor clip.
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"12 Volt" Power Outlet in my Tesla Model S Plaid Has Burned Out 3 ~$1000 Escort Redline 360c detectors
- Thread starter madmaxCA
- Start date
Did you ever figure out a way to use the 360? I have one and am trying to figure it out.
RyanDe680
'22 S Plaid
Do you have any details on install for this? I’ve seen a couple of threads with a v1 install but nothing concrete.My Valentine 1 Gen 2 has been running just fine and reporting 15.1V.
I think most Automotive devices might peak out at around 15V because most ICE cars easily output 14.5V. If your Escorts truly burned out at 15-ish volts they are not very well designed for $1000.00 radar detector. My V1 is $399.00 and works awesome. Especially with V1Driver (iOS) which integrates it into the car audio system.
Runs off 12” mirror tap. And behind PPF to keep it cool and out of site. Nice and tidy. Easy to hide from service too.
The damn mirror housing looks and feels like its on there really tight.
SilverString
Member
Not an ideal solution, but if you are inclined, and a DIYer, and only need 1 amp or less (like a radar detector or other small device) this circuit using a 7812T could be easily spiced into the 12v power line and then covered with heat shrink. Those caps could be eliminated, or tiny in size and value (like .1uf) since your source is a battery and ripple free. I am surprised the radar detector does not have some sort of circuitry to handle a small amount of over-voltage.
12V Access: Model S 2021 Refresh
I just lifted the phone charger tray up for easier access to the wire once i fished it out from the console and towards the footwell area. Does the phone charger tray unsnap from the front by lifting it straight up?
teslamotorsclub.com
One more thing. Those of you who have been looking for fuse boxes in a Tesla have probably been disappointed. Beyond things like the pyrofuse (to protect the car from hugely dangerous shorts on the battery feed), the rest of the car uses these, "resettable" fuses. These have been around for a while; generally, they go open when too much current tries to go through, then recover on their own.
I don't know for certain if the 12V socket is on one of those; it's not unusual to find a 12V socket with an integrated fuse. But that would explain why it goes out, comes back, and why the Tesla SC didn't find anything.
I don't know for certain if the 12V socket is on one of those; it's not unusual to find a 12V socket with an integrated fuse. But that would explain why it goes out, comes back, and why the Tesla SC didn't find anything.
CaptUAL
Member
Seems like a lot of expense and honky wiring, jury rigging to have a kids radar detector, when just following the posted speed law which is in place for everyones safety will work every time in avoiding being stopped. At least it’s worked for me for the last 50 years. For what one would save on not buying the radar detector, you can buy a Ryobi cordless air pump And a spare battery, and forget the darn 16V Tesla plug. What a concept
n2mb_racing
Active Member
Yeah, I have no idea why they replaced the 12V with a 4S li-ion battery instead of a 4S LFP battery. If they used a 12V 4S LFP battery, the 12V voltages would have been normal (~13V). 4S Li-ion is 14.4V nominal, which a high voltage above 16V. Also, given the number of times that 12V battery cycles, LFP would have made more sense. I think we'll be seeing these 12V batteries fail in ~4 years instead of lasting a decade or longer.
n2mb_racing
Active Member
Also, something like this will get you a regulated 12V output from the USB-C ports: https://www.amazon.com/2-Pack-JacobsParts-Type-C-Trigger-Connector/dp/B08NTVLZH7
vcor
Tech Specialist
ICE cars typically run at 13.5-14.5v when charging, and often have spikes at even higher voltages. My S provides a peak of 15.8v, and is relatively clean. 15.8 is about 8.9% higher than 14.5v, a small amount, and well within the range that any reasonably well-made device should handle. That said, clearly, there are some poorly made devices that cut it way too close to the limits. That generates lots of failed units, which when out of warranty is good for that company but bad for the consumer.
Most electronic devices have an input filter capacitor. These are often available at 16v or 25v ratings. To save about a penny, the company can use the 16v capacitor instead of the 25v rating. That rating is likely +/- 10%, so some will work fine up to 17.6v and some may fail as low as 14.4v. Clearly using a 16v capacitor is a really bad idea. You're on the marginal edge of failure at 14.4v and a higher percentage of failures at 15.7v.
There can be other issues, as perhaps the power supply in the device is inefficient and heats up too much. The higher the input voltage (on some designs) the hotter the components get. Again, if not designed for it, something can fail.
Designing for automotive environments is not that difficult, but some care is needed to understand the electrical and thermal environment and design appropriately with sufficient safety margins. Clearly, some companies do not understand it.
Most electronic devices have an input filter capacitor. These are often available at 16v or 25v ratings. To save about a penny, the company can use the 16v capacitor instead of the 25v rating. That rating is likely +/- 10%, so some will work fine up to 17.6v and some may fail as low as 14.4v. Clearly using a 16v capacitor is a really bad idea. You're on the marginal edge of failure at 14.4v and a higher percentage of failures at 15.7v.
There can be other issues, as perhaps the power supply in the device is inefficient and heats up too much. The higher the input voltage (on some designs) the hotter the components get. Again, if not designed for it, something can fail.
Designing for automotive environments is not that difficult, but some care is needed to understand the electrical and thermal environment and design appropriately with sufficient safety margins. Clearly, some companies do not understand it.
I ordered these to use in my MY to stabilize the voltage for my redline 360c and a few other electronics Amazon.com & Amazon.com
Seems like a lot of expense and honky wiring, jury rigging to have a kids radar detector, when just following the posted speed law which is in place for everyones safety will work every time in avoiding being stopped. At least it’s worked for me for the last 50 years. For what one would save on not buying the radar detector, you can buy a Ryobi cordless air pump And a spare battery, and forget the darn 16V Tesla plug. What a concept
I sure hope this guy didn't pay for a Plaid
inserting this voltage stabilizer between the tesla 12v outlet and the escort redline 360c that will get installed today. Given the initial report above, seems like a reasonable way to protect an expensive electronic device at a price of maybe 10-15% of the device cost. If additional dashcams added down the road will connect them to this also. In my past experience as a ham radio operator, it was a money saving measure to use power conditioners similar to this between the AC or DC power sources and very expensive electronic equipment.
Attachments
Guess it would be prudent to use a multi-meter to check voltage prior to plugging an expensive aftermarket device.
n2mb_racing
Active Member
I would use the USB-C PD cable above, it's a lot cheaper and easier, as long as your detector doesn't need more than 2A.
n2mb_racing
Active Member
Just find the one with the right plug to match your detector and it should be plug and play. https://www.amazon.com/2-Pack-JacobsParts-Type-C-Trigger-Connector/dp/B08NTVLZH7?tag=tmc064-20&th=1
vcor
Tech Specialist
Yep, you'd expect a company like Escort at the prices they charge to make a good product. The fact they burn up at 15.8v indicates to me a very poor design. Even ICE cars can have higher voltage spikes. This is not complex engineering, and their warranty expenses must be significant. Then again, perhaps with the supply issues over the last few years, Escort bought counterfeit parts that were not close to the appropriate design ratings. Still, a good QA system should have caught this kind of problem.
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