n2mb_racing
Active Member
That's pretty cool. Though, I can't see why I'd need it. I don't use the frunk very often. I guess I'd use it more if I had a powered opener?
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12V Access: Model S 2021 Refresh
- Thread starter 4SUPER9
- Start date
Good to know. I reached out to EVOffer 6 months ago and they said they were working on it. I had this definitely on my mod list for some time. However, now that I see how small the new frunk is, I am no longer convinced of its utility. My original frunk from 2013 was monstrous, and definitely worth it. Even my 2016 and 2018 were reasonable. I still may do it, but just for fun.
OK, I need some help. I've been using my OBD port for my radar for two months with no issues. Today, I added a small LED strip to the other end of the my OBD splitter, using the #11 pin for constant. Everything was great. 10 minutes later, neither my LED nor my radar (switched #16) come on. I measure the voltage: I get zero from the #11 pin, and 2.4 V from the #16 pin. I tried to reboot the MCU. No change.
Someone please help! Thanks
Update: I went back to the car about 30 minutes later and my radar powered up. I plugged the LED in and it immediately shut down again. I am standing by waiting for what I presume is another reset of the internal circuit. I am wondering if maybe I should add some diodes to the LEDs as the current is at 15.5 V. Maybe that will help?
Someone please help! Thanks
Update: I went back to the car about 30 minutes later and my radar powered up. I plugged the LED in and it immediately shut down again. I am standing by waiting for what I presume is another reset of the internal circuit. I am wondering if maybe I should add some diodes to the LEDs as the current is at 15.5 V. Maybe that will help?
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I was wondering about this one. Did you meter out the voltage on that yellow wire? Was it 15.6V like the rest? Debating hooking up the xkglow 12V to 5V converter to it, maybe i'll pull apart tomorrow night and see what that voltage is and see if the converter at ~16V will work OK. There's enough room in there I can hide all the controllers for the lights behind the charging pad.
vcor
Tech Specialist
I measured 15.7 to 15.8v at a number of test places in the car. I wouldn't expect you'll see much lower at any place you might tap into, unless you go into the USB 5v. Here's my complete analysis: Accessory Power Guide 12v/5v – TeslaTap If you're using a 12v LED strip, it's going to have a short life at 15.7v. A DC-DC converter should work, but you could get away with 4-5 silicon diodes to drop the voltage down to 12v. (5 * 0.7v = 3.5v drop).
Ok. So I answered my own question.
Underneath the wireless charging pad, the connector supplies 15.4V via the yellow wire (the pin labeled D). Ground is the brown wire (the pin labeled C), validated that via a continuity test.
I also validated the accessory plug in the center console (cig lighter) is also 15.4V, so it's not providing a 12V either.
Now to figure out how to test if the wireless pad is switched.
Edit: powered off the car, it's interesting, the car itself doesn't actually fully power off, but the pad and USB ports are still active. How would one properly test switched power?
Underneath the wireless charging pad, the connector supplies 15.4V via the yellow wire (the pin labeled D). Ground is the brown wire (the pin labeled C), validated that via a continuity test.
I also validated the accessory plug in the center console (cig lighter) is also 15.4V, so it's not providing a 12V either.
Now to figure out how to test if the wireless pad is switched.
Edit: powered off the car, it's interesting, the car itself doesn't actually fully power off, but the pad and USB ports are still active. How would one properly test switched power?
Attachments
Put your phone on the pad so you can see that it is charging. Or better, make sure the sound is on. Leave your window open and exit the car. See if the phone stops charging. If you cannot see, open the door, and if you hear the beep that your phone starts charging, you have your answer.
Yea. I think the pad and USB ports only go off when the car goes to sleep. Oh well. The xkglow has a feature where you can set it to turn off after 5 minutes of not being in Bluetooth range. I'll just use that.
Somehow I missed your post. The xkglow system comes w a 12V to 5V converter and appears to be fine with the higher voltage. Though I didn't test to see if the output of the converter is truly 5V.
vcor
Tech Specialist
Some items, like the front USB ports may take 9 minutes or so to turn off. If you have sentry mode on, then they stay on. Other things can keep the car powered up as well as a long OTA download or running the battery coolant pumps. You need to connect a voltmeter, leave it on while you leave the car, and return (without a FOB/phone) and look in a window to see if it is still on or not. I used a video camera pointed at the voltmeters to find the exact time power shut down. A bit of a hassle, but it was the only good way to do it.
@C4sxm5 @Robotpedlr
Looking for clarification on where the 12V cig lighter wire bundle and plug is? The FB video is not working, in one picture it looks like the carpet is pulled out but in this picture below it looks like the center console is on top of the carpet.
two questions:
1. In what general area using the numbers is the white plug located?
2. Can you clarify what needs to be pulled away to get access to the plug, the center console only on the passenger side or the carpet or both?
thanks
Looking for clarification on where the 12V cig lighter wire bundle and plug is? The FB video is not working, in one picture it looks like the carpet is pulled out but in this picture below it looks like the center console is on top of the carpet.
two questions:
1. In what general area using the numbers is the white plug located?
2. Can you clarify what needs to be pulled away to get access to the plug, the center console only on the passenger side or the carpet or both?
thanks
Alright I did a video screen grab, this might help others as it certainly helps me. The white plug is located here. There is a black wire in this harness, assume this is ground. You mentioned there is a bolt a few inches away, I assume this is a bolt into the chassis and not in this plastic center console in this picture correct. I'm likely going to just tap the black wire it is ground in the harness. Still waiting on delivery.
It looks like you figured it out… I would have said it is in area 4 on your picture and the side of the console snaps out (start from the area towards the front of the car) and pull it out until you get far enough back to access the plug/wire.
I ended up just running a 12v plug to the receptical in the console with red black wires and fishing that out from the console under the phone charger area. That way I am not messing with any factory wires.
I ended up just running a 12v plug to the receptical in the console with red black wires and fishing that out from the console under the phone charger area. That way I am not messing with any factory wires.
Copy, I'm going to run an online fuse and make it transparent to that plug by tapping the pins in the plug so I can always put it back to factory. Hopefully sentry mode does not keep this active. Was going to tap into the mirror but this seems a sure way to avoid errors some people have reported.
n2mb_racing
Active Member
I had an ALP on my old, old car. Any pics of the install?
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