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I do have a meter, but didn't bother, as there is nothing I can anyhow... the unit wont run. Just a thought, the obd2 connector I bought had a data/usb type connector on the end. I bet the stupid obd connector module takes it down to 5v. I already bought an 11 ft cigarette lighter to RJ11, but the run will be long.
 
I do have a meter, but didn't bother, as there is nothing I can anyhow... the unit wont run. Just a thought, the obd2 connector I bought had a data/usb type connector on the end. I bet the stupid obd connector module takes it down to 5v. I already bought an 11 ft cigarette lighter to RJ11, but the run will be long.
Yes, if your connector had a USB, it definitely has a step down built in, and should be at 5V. You may be able to remove it or tap into the wires before the step-down. Depends on the build, I guess.
I have an OBD connector without the step down. I intend to measure the V both while parked and while driving. I just need a car to test it on!
 
For a switched 12V source up front, I used the power wires for the wireless charger. Its underneath the charger and easy to access. The feeders are 14GA.
I used this to power my ALP laser jammer.
Here's what I did for constant 12v (Actually 15.5v) in the rear.
I tapped into the rear body control module. It's about a 12awg wire so it's rated for at least 20A.
I fused my accessory cigarette lighter and usb plugs to a 5A fuse.
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Are you aware of any switched 12V power in the trunk? I'm installing a tracker that needs both constant and switched power.
 
Picked up my LR this evening. I plugged my OBD adapter in, and attached my meter. It runs a stead 15.33V, going up to 15.4V upon acceleration. I will plug in my radar tomorrow to see what happens.
Update: My Escort 9500 gave a "High voltage" alert when I plugged it in. I added two diodes in series, and the voltage dropped to 13.7V, which gave me no errors. I drove around for a while too. The radar stayed functioning the entire time.

Update #2: I do not have the trailer hitch harness. At least not on the driver's side. If someone wants it, just DM me your address and I'll send it to you so you don't need a Model X or Y VIN to buy it.
 
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Update: My Escort 9500 gave a "High voltage" alert when I plugged it in. I added two diodes in series, and the voltage dropped to 13.7V, which gave me no errors. I drove around for a while too. The radar stayed functioning the entire time.

Update #2: I do not have the trailer hitch harness. At least not on the driver's side. If someone wants it, just DM me your address and I'll send it to you so you don't need a Model X or Y VIN to buy it.
What diodes did you use? I don’t have my car yet but want to plan ahead. Thanks!
 
These guys here. $7 for 20 of them. Just remember that the side with the white band blocks current completely if coming FROM that side. Reduces it slightly if current originates from the other side.

Some information about my radar install is here.
I just realized that I forgot to reference the radar install link. I’ve been driving around since yesterday with no hiccups on the radar function.
Radar install
 
I just realized that I forgot to reference the radar install link. I’ve been driving around since yesterday with no hiccups on the radar function.
Radar install
Nice Install on the radar. I know there's been some question on this thread (earlier on) whether the OBD on new refresh S/LR was now switched or under what scenarios the power dips. Can you confirm this is in fact switched now with your recent delivery?
 
Does that mean that the Savvy product for the Valentine will work on the Refreshed Model S?

The Savvy product doesn't work on the refreshed Model S. I tried on my plaid a few weeks ago and it wouldn't power on the radar detector.
 
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Why? Could it be that the voltage was too high, or does it require an unswitched source?
I don't know for sure but I don't think it was a voltage issue since the cigarette lighter power source is also high (15.1V in my car) and that powered the V1 just fine.

Valentine1 states on their website that electric vehicles have an issue with SAVVY but I'm not sure what causes the issue. I tried a new SAVVY in my new S and it didn't work.
valentine1.com/v1-detectors/savvy/savvy-problem-cars/
 
Here's what I did for constant 12v (Actually 15.5v) in the rear.
I tapped into the rear body control module. It's about a 12awg wire so it's rated for at least 20A.
I fused my accessory cigarette lighter and usb plugs to a 5A fuse.
View attachment 714308
View attachment 714309
View attachment 714310
Love this install @KevinY ! Thanks for pointing me in the right direction on this. I added a 12v socket to my plaid last night. I have the exact same use case, a 12v fridge that we use on trips. I loved the 12v in my X, but I had been supplementing it with a small Jackery 300, since that 12v was switched. It will be nice to not need to carry a supplemental battery in a car full of batteries.

I just want to verify with you that this 12v line is indeed unswitched in your testing. The car has been charging since I finished adding the 12v socket, but I assume you've had plenty of time to verify that it does indeed stay live all the time? I set off on a long road trip tomorrow, or I would have spared you the lazy question. :)