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12v Accessory Power for "2021" MY

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Greetings All!

While we patiently await the delivery of our new MY, I am doing research on specific locations to tap 12v for powering accessories. From what I can glean, older MY units had the "VC Left" spade lug to drop a connector on up under the dash on the driver's side. A convenient ground was available in the footwell area.

It is my further understanding that on newer MY units, this "VC Left" is now occupied, and I understand this is possibly for the trailer wiring harness, even if factory tow is not ordered. In our case, we ordered the factory hitch, so it is all but certain that this wire will be present in that location. Anyone know how that connection is made? Is it possible to pull that wire and create a "Y" splitter?

For those who have needed to tap into 12v accessory power for devices on newer MY where this location was already in use from the factory, which method and location did you end up using to get power?

I know there is the 12v accessory port in the rear of the center console, and I have seen the videos where those wires were tapped and spliced from that location, and I suppose it is always an option, but I am trying really hard to source the power using the least invasive method possible. I really do not like altering OEM wiring if I can keep from it. I wish someone made a "Y" adapter for the plug harness (aptiv/delphi 12176836) that plugs into the 12v socket so I could tap 12v without any damage to the factory wiring. What I really wish is that from the factory, Tesla offered an "upfitter" kit to access 12v power in a very clean and supported manner, but given that isn't the case, I am just trying to do the next best thing.

Thanks, I would really like to hear from those who can relate and what they did.

-Rob
 
I have used that rear 12V plug to power our Tesla OEM air compressor (tire repair kit). It has run normally until the tire comes up to about 40 psi -- then as the compressor starts to labor, the power cuts off from the socket. I suspect that at higher current draws, the virtual circuit breaker trips. Eventually, power is automatically restored.

I'm not sure how to determine when a virtual breaker trips. Any ideas?
 
The Tesla Owner's Manual states that the 12V accessory power port in the center console can deliver 12A continuous and 16A peak. Were you using this 12V accessory port to power the inflator pump or the second 12V accessory port located on the driver's side in the left rear corner of the hatch storage area.The Owner's Manual does not say whether the 12A continuous draw limit is for both of the 12 V accessory ports combined. Did you have anything plugged into the 12V port in the center console?
 
The Tesla Owner's Manual states that the 12V accessory power port in the center console can deliver 12A continuous and 16A peak. Were you using this 12V accessory port to power the inflator pump or the second 12V accessory port located on the driver's side in the left rear corner of the hatch storage area.The Owner's Manual does not say whether the 12A continuous draw limit is for both of the 12 V accessory ports combined. Did you have anything plugged into the 12V port in the center console?
I tried using both ports, and they both behaved the same way. I even experimented with the GM air compressor from our Volt, and it behaved the same way.
 
When the compressor is first plugged in and turned on, it delivers good airflow -- filling the tire normally -- until it gets, as I recall, above about 36 PSI, and you can hear it gradually working harder to deliver higher pressure air, then the power cuts off completely. The virtual breaker must open the circuit, and starts a timer (or perhaps waits for a sensor to show cooling) until the circuit is powered again. My guess is that these compressors slowly increase the current draw as the workload increases, until the draw exceeds the limit. No biggie, really. At least they deliver adequate pressure for self rescue.
 
Hi everybody.
I’d like to obtain the connector that goes to the rear 12v accessory port. I want to connect a 12A consuming ham radio there. Using it with the cig adapter now, but this eventually poses a bad contact and heating up risk. So to not cause damage to the cabling, I’d like to remove the cig female and get the same connector. No idea about a number or anything. Would be willing to pull the cig receptacle out, but couldn’t find a way to do this.

I’m aware taking 12v from near the driver door as stated some other places in this forum is more elegant, but I think the current drain from the vhf/uhf radio is not comparable to a radar detector or dash cam.

The photo is of the connector I mean.

Where can I get the connector? Or how do I remove the receptacle? Or will the trailer harness thingie tolerate the 12A?

Thanks in advance!

3D2D38E4-AAE0-42CF-825C-5A19B163B45C.jpeg
 
This connector in on one side of the cable, and the cigarette lighter female on the other side. If I get this connector I can attach the radio directly and leave the cig lighter disconnected. If I ever sell the car I remove the connector, but the original back and all is as was originally.

Thanks again for your time and support.
 
This connector in on one side of the cable, and the cigarette lighter female on the other side. If I get this connector I can attach the radio directly and leave the cig lighter disconnected. If I ever sell the car I remove the connector, but the original back and all is as was originally.

Thanks again for your time and support.
Did you ever figure out what this connector is? I am also trying to tap this power for 12v accessories in the trunk. It would be great to make my own harness to drop in.
 
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