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12V Battery Dead

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When I came out of work and got into my car, it had several error messages, 12V battery low - car my not restart, car needs service - car cannot be driven, caution - reduced acceleration, etc. It would not shift into drive or reverse. I called Tesla roadside assistance, talked with customer support, they verified the situation and called me back in about 40 minutes after trying to figure out a solution. They told me they had set up an Uber for me to get home (20 mile drive), and that in a couple hours they would have a ranger available to fix it, and tow the car home. After getting home, I received a call from the towing company verifying everything. It didn't seem like anything was being done to fix it, just tow the car back to my house. Called Tesla roadside again, and they said that there weren't any rangers available at that time (by now it was after 8PM), and that roadside assistance would not handle that anyways, they just focus on getting the driver where they need to go. It is possibly I misunderstood the first time when they told me they would fix it, but I do not think so. I should have called Tesla support immediately at that point, but thought I needed to wait until the morning, since the ranger wouldn't be available to help at that time anyways, and the closest service center is 2 hours away, and also closed at this time.
This morning, at 6:30, after being on hold for 30 minutes, I talked to Tesla support, and they said that they would contact the local Tesla support rep to set up the ranger or send it to the dealership, or whatever they could arrange. They said I would hear back from them in less than 24-48 hours, hopefully sooner, since they flagged the message as "inoperable". I was expecting a call back quickly, and for this to be resolved, or at least for a plan for resolution in a couple hours at most, not 24-48 hours. How can they expect you to be without a car for 24-48 hours with zero plan or communication on how this will be resolved, especially on a vehicle still under warranty??

I did not want to call the Service Center directly, as there is no way it will get resolved today. They will have to send a flat bed to pick the car up, fix it, and send a flatbed to send the car home. Scheduling and logistics alone will take at least a couple of days, if not more. Even if they set me up with a loaner, it will take more than a day I would expect to get the car, and I doubt they would set me up with a loaner on something as simple as a battery replacement (if that is all that it is). So, my only chance on getting this straightened out is to rely on the local support scheduling a ranger to come out, since it SHOULD be a simple procedure... As the hours tick by, and I still have not heard anything I am becoming more an more frustrated. I was hoping to miss as little work as possible, there is only so much that I can get done from home.

Do I have any other options on getting this resolved, or at least getting a plan in place so I know what is going on quicker than just sitting here and waiting for them to call me back??
 
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Also, I have no idea why the battery would die like this. It isn't that cold here, and the paperwork the previous owner showed me, the battery was replaced a few months before I bought the car this past December. It went from zero warning, to too dead to drive the car at all. Then when after the car was towed home, I put a trickle charger on the jump start post behind the nose cone, hoping that would get my by until Service could be scheduled, and this morning the car was COMPLETELY dead, after having the trickle charger on all night. Neither IC or MCU would turn on, the drivers side door would not open at all, but the passenger door did open... Seems like there is something else wrong other than the battery, unless it was just replaced with a "bad" battery when it was done less than a year ago...
 
You can't charge a dead battery with a trickle charger. You need a regular battery charger capable of at least 10 amps. The problem is likely to be a failed DC to DC converter. Without the converter there is no way for the car to charge the 12 volt battery. Connecting a fully charged battery to the jump posts on the front cross beam will probably reactivate the car but if the DC to DC converter failed it will only last until that battery is dead.
 
Just got a call from Tesla! They said they reviewed the cars logs, and "saw intermittent issues" and need to take it into the Service Center to look it over. I imagine you are correct about the DC-DC converter.. They are sending a flatbed up tonight to pick the car up and bring it down there. The Service Center did not have a loaner available, so they are setting me up with a rental car from a local Enterprise. That will happen either tonight or tomorrow morning.

All in all, very happy with the support! Not an ideal situation, but all under warranty, so won't cost me anything...
 
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I don’t mean to hijack this thread. I was just looking for info because I ran into a problem with my battery.alarms pop up 12 V battery needs replaced soon I took it out today then drove around forever trying to figure out a place to buy new one and couldn’t find anywhere any info on where I can purchase a new battery. Any help would be very appreciated .
 
I don’t mean to hijack this thread. I was just looking for info because I ran into a problem with my battery.alarms pop up 12 V battery needs replaced soon I took it out today then drove around forever trying to figure out a place to buy new one and couldn’t find anywhere any info on where I can purchase a new battery. Any help would be very appreciated .

It's a unique battery, and AFAIK only available from Tesla. Any service center will have them. If the car is under warranty they replace it for free. Otherwise the battery is ~$130, or a bit under $200 installed. If you have an early car you probably want them to install it as it's hard to get to. Later cars are easier.
 
GG, you made me realized something, I had been storing them in the trunk and it just occurred that if the 12V dies, there's no way I can get to it o_O

The alligator clip juts out a bit but otherwise fits in the glove compartment with a bit of a push to shut it.

IMG_3998.jpg IMG_3997.jpg
 
It's a unique battery, and AFAIK only available from Tesla. Any service center will have them. If the car is under warranty they replace it for free. Otherwise the battery is ~$130, or a bit under $200 installed. If you have an early car you probably want them to install it as it's hard to get to. Later cars are easier.

How often do the 12V batteries fail for 2014/2015 cars? Is there no warning before failure?
 
GG, you made me realized something, I had been storing them in the trunk and it just occurred that if the 12V dies, there's no way I can get to it o_O

The alligator clip juts out a bit but otherwise fits in the glove compartment with a bit of a push to shut it.

View attachment 292774 View attachment 292775
If the 12 volt battery is dead and the car is locked you can't get to the glove compartment either unless you break a window.. Put it into the frunk. There is a manual way to open the frunk but if you haven't learned how to do it it is unlikely you will figure it out under adverse conditions. Refresh cars have pull cords hidden up front. Pre-refresh cars require removing the nose cone and then operating the two frunk latches with your fingers. That's really hard to do when it is below freezing.
 
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If the 12 volt battery is dead and the car is locked you can't get to the glove compartment either unless you break a window.. Put it into the frunk. There is a manual way to open the frunk but if you haven't learned how to do it it is unlikely you will figure it out under adverse conditions. Refresh cars have pull cords hidden up front. Pre-refresh cars require removing the nose cone and then operating the two frunk latches with your fingers. That's really hard to do when it is below freezing.


Thanks for the heads up. Searched the forum and found out how to open it. Frunk Security Issue - can be opened without a key - Feature not a bug

Now, where should I keep flathead screwdriver/ spudger needed to pop the latch to get to the NOCO ? :D
 
How often do the 12V batteries fail for 2014/2015 cars? Is there no warning before failure?

Seems every car is different. My 2013 car has had the 12V replaced once, and it was pro-actively done while the car was at the SC for something else. The new battery is close to 3 years old and still working.

There is supposed to be a warning a few weeks before the battery fails.
 
[QUOTE="Now, where should I keep flathead screwdriver/ spudger needed to pop the latch to get to the NOCO ? :D[/QUOTE]

I have seen a YouTube video of someone getting the nosecone off using a credit card as the spudger...

The 12V did die in mine with ZERO warnings before it was dead. However, it turns out that the logs they pulled from my car showed an "interanl fault in the 85kW battery pack" according to the service adviser. No warnings or faults displayed on the info screen indicated that to me at all, so I was surprised to hear that. They are looking to replace the 85kW battery pack now..