12V battery issue, service wants to replace DC-DC converter

[samzebanana]

Thanks for this image , I have already found it .

Dcdc converter - Forum Club Tesla Magazine

I took it on french forum , but no one reply me .

At this moment , I can't remove my five caps to this wheel !i'am a poor boy ...

 

[samzebanana]

I made myself one tool for extract my caps , but I don't have the technical for extract them , and I broke my tool , .

 

[abzwal]

Happened to me today. Car went dead and had to tow it to tesla service.

Billed me $3,342 for the dcdc and new 12v battery

 

[Cal1]

Ok We need a serious DYI with step by step removal visuals. I'm not going to pay the stealership $2k for a $10 part.

 

[Gixx1300R]

Ok We need a serious DYI with step by step removal visuals. I'm not going to pay the stealership $2k for a $10 part.

 

[Cal1]

Thanks you soooo much! Great video! Water cooled??? Must be way more heat generated going through this thing than you'd think. Thanks again.

 

[FS1EMAN]

CAN ANY ONE HELP WITH THE PINOUT FOR GEN 1 DCDC UNIT

 

[sorka]

Most likely the fuse just blew. There is a thread on the heater or AC suddenly stopping and service wanting to replace the whole dc-dc converter. Several people removed the dc-dc converter and opened it to replace the fuse and everything worked fine in those cars afterward.

I also have 2013 P85 and carry two replacement fuses just in case, although the warranty on my car runs into 2021. According to the post, this is a common issue with the dc-dc converter in the 2013 cars. Tesla allegedly sells a replacement unit for $2K plus, and then sends your unit back to the factory for refurbishing (many say merely to replace the fuses).

Btw, you can’t swsp the dc-dc converter from another car into your car without doing a firmware update, which Tesla will not do for you if they didn’t sell you the part.

One reason why it's good to always keep the next staged update ready to. I replaced my chargeport but fortunately had the yellow clock ready. Prior to the update, the replaced chargeport threw several errors one of which was "needs software update".

 

[Zeemo]

Hello Everyone.
I have been looking around and the DCDC converter 'needs' replacing for a number of issue. The 12V battery, heating Matrix, charging port not working. I am wondering whether there is another internal component that could be affecting the DCDC. I am also wondering about the outside factors such as the heat and humidity. I saw one person mentioning that the heating matrix caused DCDC breaking or vice versa in a 2013 model, the guy lives in Ontario Canada so perhaps that's due to the cold weather there.. Has anyone noticed certain issues affecting certain components that may trigger the DCDC to break. I have also read that the heating element issue was fixed by 2014 model but DCDC replacements in other models are still happening for other issue.

 

[hydro]

hi all

is there a list of all the fuses (large fuses like for the dc-dc converter , charger/slave charger, etc.) used in a 2013 model s ? I’d like to buy them in advance just in case. Are they standard fuses found at any electrical shop ? Thanks

 

[Zeemo]

hi all

is there a list of all the fuses (large fuses like for the dc-dc converter , charger/slave charger, etc.) used in a 2013 model s ? I’d like to buy them in advance just in case. Are they standard fuses found at any electrical shop ? Thanks

I found this at Dcdc converter - Forum Tesla Magazine
Samzebanan had posted a link to French forum dealing with it

 

[Amanita]

Aloha, Gang!

If you buy a used Model S Gen 1 DC-DC converter of the same p/n as the old one (6009170-00-J), does anyone know if the firmware in the replacement 6009170-00-J would typically match the firmware in the failed unit?

I replaced the Heater fuse (and the PTC) in my old Gen 1 DC-DC unit and put it back in, and now the Hi-Voltage connector doesn't click on. The charge port won't unlock (no click sound) and I get the message "Vehicle may not restart" - "Voltage low", you know the drill. 12v battery is a new Ohhmu. the 12-volt system seems fine. The 12v is fully charged. I've tried 'hard rebooting" the car. The only other thing I've touched - opened it up, in fact - is the DC-DC converter. I assume that I damaged something in the process.

I live in the mountains of coastal California. Getting the car towed is a $600 bill. Before buying a replacement DC-DC converter, my question is whether or not there's a likelihood of the car not starting due to firmware differences in an otherwise-good, used replacement DC-DC converter.

Thanks for any advice you can offer!

KellyO

 

[Xenoilphobe]

Check all your connections to make sure they are seated correctly. Also did you check to make sure the new fuse is not blown?

I assume you are talking about this part....

 

[Evoforce]

Aloha, Gang!

If you buy a used Model S Gen 1 DC-DC converter of the same p/n as the old one (6009170-00-J), does anyone know if the firmware in the replacement 6009170-00-J would typically match the firmware in the failed unit?

I replaced the Heater fuse (and the PTC) in my old Gen 1 DC-DC unit and put it back in, and now the Hi-Voltage connector doesn't click on. The charge port won't unlock (no click sound) and I get the message "Vehicle may not restart" - "Voltage low", you know the drill. 12v battery is a new Ohhmu. the 12-volt system seems fine. The 12v is fully charged. I've tried 'hard rebooting" the car. The only other thing I've touched - opened it up, in fact - is the DC-DC converter. I assume that I damaged something in the process.

I live in the mountains of coastal California. Getting the car towed is a $600 bill. Before buying a replacement DC-DC converter, my question is whether or not there's a likelihood of the car not starting due to firmware differences in an otherwise-good, used replacement DC-DC converter.

Thanks for any advice you can offer!

KellyO

I assume you also made sure that you reattached the fire cut loop where you disconnect the main pack and or checked its reconnection. And, that you got the correct polarity when you reattached the high voltage wires back to the inverter.

 

[vcor]

For those in need of fuse type and placements, I've updated our fuse locator to include the DC-DC inverter and the Front HV Junction box: Fuses and Current Protection – TeslaTap Jump down to the 2012 S, and select the desired tab.

 

[Amanita]

Aloha, Evo,

Thanks for your response! All good now, I found the problem. I got distracted by kids and left the ground wire VERY loose. I’m back on the road with all system go.

Cheers!

 

[Amanita]

Check all your connections to make sure they are seated correctly. Also did you check to make sure the new fuse is not blown?

I assume you are talking about this part....
—————-
Thanks for your response! All good now, I found the problem. I got distracted by kids and left the ground wire VERY loose. I’m back on the road with all systems go!

Zeno, yes!