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12V battery issue, service wants to replace DC-DC converter

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2013 Model S 60

So yesterday I got into the car and saw a 12V battery low warning and thought, ok I am going to have to call service and schedule an appointment to replace the 12V battery after I get to work..... But turns out the battery is too discharged to even get the car moving. The main battery was fully charged to the daily limit 90ish%. I had no previous warning that the 12V battery was low and I had to be towed to the service center. Now that it is at the service center they want to replace the DC-DC High to Low Voltage converter ($2100 part $400 labor). The 12V battery is probably around 18 months old. Has anyone had to replace the DC-DC High to Low Voltage converter? On the one hand, I had no warning that the 12V battery was going dead, on the other hand it is 18 months old.
 
sadly the 12 v battery has been a weak spot for awhile. it is troubling that you became stranded but it isn't uncommon. it happened to me however I caught it quick and the service team was very proactive and they came out, took the car and returned it in a day after making the necessary fix. unlike you my car was around a year old and there was no charges for the fix.
 
If you are out of warranty, I would ask about core value and whether you can keep the original part. In the long run, these large EV parts like DC/DC Converters and On-Board Chargers need to be repaired or rebuilt, not just discarded and replaced with new. You could also look for one from a salvage and ask Tesla if they will install it for you.
 
So much for the less moving parts and less maintenance claim. I feel you, I had so many issues with the 12 Volt message and it took them weeks to months to find the actual issue which was actually in the main pack. I hope for you they are right and it's just the DC-DC converter.
 
2013 Model S 60

So yesterday I got into the car and saw a 12V battery low warning and thought, ok I am going to have to call service and schedule an appointment to replace the 12V battery after I get to work..... But turns out the battery is too discharged to even get the car moving. The main battery was fully charged to the daily limit 90ish%. I had no previous warning that the 12V battery was low and I had to be towed to the service center. Now that it is at the service center they want to replace the DC-DC High to Low Voltage converter ($2100 part $400 labor). The 12V battery is probably around 18 months old. Has anyone had to replace the DC-DC High to Low Voltage converter? On the one hand, I had no warning that the 12V battery was going dead, on the other hand it is 18 months old.
Just picked up our 2013 p85 $2050 for dcdc converter replacement. No warning car would not open doors or turn on. Had it towed to shop. Now that we picked it up it’s showing the port door open even though it’s closed. Happened on the tow over lol.
 
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Toytota RAV 4 EV uses the same DC to DC converter
 
Thanks for sharing your experience. Our old Lexus Rx400h when through 12V every 25 months and you could tell the battery was weakening by slower power windows and interior lights dimming. Still, it was annoying to suddenly be unable to "Ready" the car. Both the Tesla and our Fiat 500e clusters are suppose to give a low 12V battery warning, but I bought this cigarette adapter device from Anker to get a heads-up.

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Most likely the fuse just blew. There is a thread on the heater or AC suddenly stopping and service wanting to replace the whole dc-dc converter. Several people removed the dc-dc converter and opened it to replace the fuse and everything worked fine in those cars afterward.

I also have 2013 P85 and carry two replacement fuses just in case, although the warranty on my car runs into 2021. According to the post, this is a common issue with the dc-dc converter in the 2013 cars. Tesla allegedly sells a replacement unit for $2K plus, and then sends your unit back to the factory for refurbishing (many say merely to replace the fuses).

Btw, you can’t swsp the dc-dc converter from another car into your car without doing a firmware update, which Tesla will not do for you if they didn’t sell you the part.
 
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Tesla replaced my DC to Dc converter, 12v battery and a cooling pump (not under warranty) I requested my old parts back per state law. I tested the 12v battery and the coolant pump. They both were fine. I checked the DC to DC converter and the only thing that was wrong with it was a 20A/500V fuse. Cost was $3.00 for the fuse
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I've heard that black gunk sealing the cover is a huge pain in the butt to open. After changing the fuse you also have to seal it up again to prevent moisture intrusion.

It wasn't too bad, I separated the shell by inserting a razor knife and tapping the backside of the razor knife around the edge to cut the sealant, that way the edges of the shell arent bent. Use silicone gasket sealer to reseal
 
Tesla replaced my DC to Dc converter, 12v battery and a cooling pump (not under warranty) I requested my old parts back per state law. I tested the 12v battery and the coolant pump. They both were fine. I checked the DC to DC converter and the only thing that was wrong with it was a 20A/500V fuse. Cost was $3.00 for the fuseView attachment 402657 View attachment 402659 View attachment 402660

Maddening that so many companies (not just Tesla) insist on replacing a $2,000 part for a $10 issue, which they undoubtedly refurbish by replacing the fuse. I mean, sure, swap the part out to save time and labor at the service center - but how about a $1500 core credit on the faulty part? ;)

Good on you for insisting on your old parts back. Until more people do that I can’t imagine this service model changing.
 
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Maddening that so many companies (not just Tesla) insist on replacing a $2,000 part for a $10 issue, which they undoubtedly refurbish by replacing the fuse. I mean, sure, swap the part out to save time and labor at the service center - but how about a $1500 core credit on the faulty part? ;)

Good on you for insisting on your old parts back. Until more people do that I can’t imagine this service model changing.
Agree. They either need to sell the refurbs for a lower price or they need to give you a significant amount back for the core that they will rebuild.
 
"Banana" is a model S 85 from december 2013 .
I find on eBay one dcdc converter ,but the last letter is "J" and on my offer they want to sell me one "H" :
Dcdc converter hvjb dcdc (6009-170-00-"H") .

I would like to repair myself the fuses. Do you think I will lose any data when I will switch off ? Otherwise what precaution could you advice to me ?
Do you know someone who replaced it by himself ?
Thanks in advance for your help.
 
"Banana" is a model S 85 from december 2013 .
I find on eBay one dcdc converter ,but the last letter is "J" and on my offer they want to sell me one "H" :
Dcdc converter hvjb dcdc (6009-170-00-"H") .

I would like to repair myself the fuses. Do you think I will lose any data when I will switch off ? Otherwise what precaution could you advice to me ?
Do you know someone who replaced it by himself ?
Thanks in advance for your help.

located behind the passenger wheel well, no data will be lost, make sure to disconnect the HV system
Model S Passenger side wheel well.png