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12V Battery Just Died - Total battery failure

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Our T3P 12V battery died last week. The wife drove the car to work about 14 mile, but when she attempted to leave work, the door opened but that was all! The car was DOA! Called the S.C., they dispatched a tow truck who's driver was very knowable about her situation, popped open the frunk and jumped the battery. She drove it to the S.C., where they replaces the DOA battery under warranty in no time flat and sent on her way. Cold beers were chilled and awaiting for her arrival when she got home. She was a happy camper considering what she (the non-mechanic) went through.
 
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I fitted a 9V rectangular battery inside the tow hook hole (with blue tape covering the terminals), but just had to cut off the plastic piece that secures the cover to the car, so the cover closed... but I never leave it dangling anyway, so no issue for me. I didn't know a little A23 battery would work, but is it speculation, or somebody actually tried that already??? Just checking :). But just wanted to let the gang know a rectangular 9V (barely) fits in there. And yes, I have a powerful Lithium jumper pack in the frunk too, along with a 10mm wrench, in case I need to replace the battery. Hope this helps.
 
I fitted a 9V rectangular battery inside the tow hook hole (with blue tape covering the terminals), but just had to cut off the plastic piece that secures the cover to the car, so the cover closed... but I never leave it dangling anyway, so no issue for me. I didn't know a little A23 battery would work, but is it speculation, or somebody actually tried that already??? Just checking :). But just wanted to let the gang know a rectangular 9V (barely) fits in there. And yes, I have a powerful Lithium jumper pack in the frunk too, along with a 10mm wrench, in case I need to replace the battery. Hope this helps.
Clever idea. You could probably tape the 9V battery to the bumper too (you may have done this yourself) for a convenient way to open the frunk when you're stranded somewhere.

I've recently had a TeslaOffer automatic trunk and frunk fitted. From speaking to them it seems to be the case that the control boxes are connected to constant 12v power (the frunk kit certainly is connected directly to the battery). They said that the standby power is ~0.1 amps. I do very little driving in my car currently, perhaps once or twice a month at most due to lockdowns and working from home, and until recently my car would stay asleep for days. I don't actually recall it ever waking up spontaneously just to charge the 12v battery, but I guess it must have done at some point because I've owned the car for over a year.

In the last week I've had a couple of spontaneously wake ups, with the car being online for 2 and 3 hours respectively. I guess it's fair to assume that the car woke up to charge the 12v battery at this point?

Anyway, I'm a bit concerned about the long term effects of this parasitic draw. Would there be any benefit (or indeed downside) in me getting an Ohmmu fitted instead of the OEM battery? I'm in the UK so it would cost quite a lot of money to get shipped over, etc.
 
Car is working fine with new battery…wish the app would have given us some advance warning….based on the alerts the vehicle started having errors like at 6:30 in the morning but nothing was sent to us via the app. My wife had loaded our kids into the car (which was hot since it wasn’t cooling) like at 1 PM and then got locked inside when the battery full failed…in her panic she didn’t remember the emergency door handles and eventually was able to call me and I told her how to get out. She could have very easily loaded the kids in and then not been able to get into the car. Altogether she was stuck in the car for like 4 minutes (it was probably 130 degrees in the car)
So I had the 12v battery fail on my M3P and outside temp was 105 deg in San Jose. So heat does seem to kill the battery, but sad thing is not one peep of a warning of a dying battery, until it dies and leaves you in dead water. Luckily for me it happened in my driveway (I have been using the car). After it died and I revived it by charging it externally, it tells me to replace the battery soon as it boots up. That is some crap algorithm of a warning. Will service call this under warranty as I have less than 50k miles. I think it has some over charge prevention when there is high heat as the voltage is higher, but there are no AMPs available. This is what causes sudden death with no warning from the system. Really a sad condition, but happens to all vehicles.
 
So I just bought an OEM 12v “off the shelf” from Tesla as mine is coming up on 3 years old (Sept 2018) and no issues however I’m getting nervous, (actually a Mobile Ranger) dropped it off to me. I was shocked to see the date of manufacture on it as 2018. Any issues with it sitting on a shelf that long?

Ski
 
There is no car in the world that tells you when your 12V is about to die. I don't know why suddenly people expect that from Tesla.
Many cars made within the last decade or two will keep track of battery degradation and warn the driver accordingly. This is why the tracker needs to be "reset" when a new battery is installed and must be configured to match the new battery's capacity and chemistry. But even older cars still had a "method" to warn drivers that was vastly superior to Tesla's.

Theoretically Tesla's system should be inherently foolproof and 100% reliable just by design. The 12V battery powers the computer that monitors that very battery and decides when to charge it. There's no possible way that even the stupidest intern could have designed it in such a way that it would "forget" to charge itself or "fail" to warn the driver of the degraded performance.

Yet Tesla somehow found a way to accomplish the seemingly impossible. Not only did they cut about 20 years off the expected 12V battery life and ignore all indications of a failing battery, but they somehow managed to make it randomly forget to charge itself. How did they do that? It's actually quite remarkable.
 
So I just bought an OEM 12v “off the shelf” from Tesla as mine is coming up on 3 years old (Sept 2018) and no issues however I’m getting nervous, (actually a Mobile Ranger) dropped it off to me. I was shocked to see the date of manufacture on it as 2018. Any issues with it sitting on a shelf that long?

My guess is the battery will be fine. About nine months ago I bought a battery that had been on the shelf for over two years. The auto parts store said I could return it if necessary. But the battery worked fine.
 
I planned to go on a day trip last Saturday. Car was not responding to the app in the am as I wanted to change the main battery to 100%.

Found the car completely dead.

Called Tesla support and the only thing he could do was get the car towed to the closest service center but since the center was not open on weekends the car would just sit in n the parking lot.

Decided to go to Advanced auto parts to see if they had a battery for it.

Nothing listed in their computer system but was able to match with 2 of them. But the only one with a vent tube was A DIEHARD 51R AGM.

So far so good.
 
I planned to go on a day trip last Saturday. Car was not responding to the app in the am as I wanted to change the main battery to 100%.

Found the car completely dead.

Called Tesla support and the only thing he could do was get the car towed to the closest service center but since the center was not open on weekends the car would just sit in n the parking lot.

Decided to go to Advanced auto parts to see if they had a battery for it.

Nothing listed in their computer system but was able to match with 2 of them. But the only one with a vent tube was A DIEHARD 51R AGM.

So far so good.
Flooded 51R. Sams Club has a Duracell. Walmart, presumably has them too.
 
But the only one with a vent tube was A DIEHARD 51R AGM.
Those don't need a vent tube. AGMs are way better than flooded ones, but they need a slightly lower sustained charging voltage, so make sure it's an okay substitute. Please post here after you ask Tesla about that. I'd like to replace mine way sooner than 2 years if AGMs are okay. Flooded batteries can wreak all kinds of havoc in an accident. Or even without one :).
 
So I had the 12v battery fail on my M3P and outside temp was 105 deg in San Jose. So heat does seem to kill the battery, but sad thing is not one peep of a warning of a dying battery, until it dies and leaves you in dead water. Luckily for me it happened in my driveway (I have been using the car). After it died and I revived it by charging it externally, it tells me to replace the battery soon as it boots up. That is some crap algorithm of a warning. Will service call this under warranty as I have less than 50k miles. I think it has some over charge prevention when there is high heat as the voltage is higher, but there are no AMPs available. This is what causes sudden death with no warning from the system. Really a sad condition, but happens to all vehicles.
This is the reason I replaced a 1 year old 12v battery with an Ohmmu. Phoenix is notoriously hard on 12v batteries in general. With the heavy use that ours see, I decided to get in front of the issue before I found a bricked M3 in a mall parking lot when it's 110F outside. On a Sunday.

:)
 
Those don't need a vent tube. AGMs are way better than flooded ones, but they need a slightly lower sustained charging voltage, so make sure it's an okay substitute. Please post here after you ask Tesla about that. I'd like to replace mine way sooner than 2 years if AGMs are okay. Flooded batteries can wreak all kinds of havoc in an accident. Or even without one :).
All indications are that Tesla's OEM battery is a flooded one. First, the replacement price of $85, is far less than a typical AGM. Plus, if you run the identifying code of the battery at the OEM website, it implies that it's flooded, not AGM. Below, you'll see that the 3 Tesla batteries are noted. Also, you'll see that AGM batteries, say AGM. The battery the 3 uses is a MF. Presumably, MF means Maintenance Free.
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