2 years is pathetic. I have replaced three batteries in the many ICE cars I have had. 2015 Audi A3 just before I got rid of it at 5 years. Toyota Previa ('87?) at 5 years and 2004 Jag XJ8 at 10 years before I gave the car to my niece (the battery was still performing its job!) Have a 1M BMW at 9 years and 50K miles and bimmers are famous for being tough on batteries. I don't get this at all ( tho I LOVE the car anyway!)
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12v battery must be replaced soon
- Thread starter Plombir
- Start date
Would you recommend keeping a jump pack in the frunk? I haven’t stayed on top of whether the frunk is still accessible with a 9V battery or if Tesla made the frunk more secure in the meantime...
RayK
Active Member
I believe that the initial issue with the 9V frunk-opening trick was that it worked when it wasn't supposed to. Tesla said in the owner's manual that you could open the frunk with an external battery only when the car's 12V battery was dead. That was proven false when it was shown that you could open it anytime; dead 12V battery or not. Sometime afterward it appears that an update corrected this problem. You should still be able to open the frunk with a dead 12V battery onboard. Whether or not you can use a simple 9V battery, I don't know. Here's a YouTube video which seems to show the correction:
I to live in Phoenix. My Model 3 has 18 months of driving. My 12 V battery suddenly died 2 weeks ago. Fortunately I was at home. I had the same experience with rear window rolling down. I was also give a 3 week until service message. About a week later they moved my service date up about a week. The Tesla Ranger had about 6 batteries with him. There must be a real 12-V battery problem with the Model 3.
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Brock-WI
Member
Is there a common size that will fit in the M3 12v battery spot, maybe a bit larger or smaller, but one that might fit so we could change them ourselves? I thought I read a 51R, but is that for the S and not the 3?
smatthew
Active Member
The external battery trick works in 2 situations
1) 12V battery is dead.
OR
2) Car is unlocked AND in Park.
The Hansshow frunk opener kick sensor uses that connection to open the frunk. So it's easy to test when it works. Definitely does not work if car is locked.
smatthew
Active Member
In 2019, Tesla made real changes to the Model 3 software to reduce "phantom drain." That means prior to those changes the car's 12V battery experienced many more charge cycles. So, a 2018, or early 2019 vehicle will have a 12V battery with a lot more charge cycles, meaning earlier failure.
The good news? replacement batteries (which are covered under warranty) should have longer lives.
RayK
Active Member
lUtriaNt
Member
perhaps there's something in the latest update that's causing some premature 12v battery errors? after this update came out boy oh boy this forum has seen quite a bit of 12v battery issues. just speculation ...
smatthew
Active Member
How much do you want to bet they have a Neural Net monitoring the 12V battery and it's just not trained right yet?
So you were driving 2 weeks without 12v battery? Maybe I shouldn't go to service center today and waste my time. I have an appointment with mobile service on August 25.
Are you able to put the battery on an external charger and try that? Can’t imagine not being able to drive for 2 weeks due to a 12v battery. Do service centers allow pickup perhaps?
android04
Active Member
I always carry a lithium ion jump starter in my frunk. I've used it to jump start other vehicles 4 times, and also used it to limp 2 vehicles with broken alternators and drained 12V batteries to a parts store. When my 12v battery fails, I plan on using it to jump start my Model 3 as well. To open the frunk, I will either use a 9v battery or get somebody to jump the bypass wires hidden behind the tow hook cover.
Unless the 12v battery has a short or other catastrophic failure, just jumping it should provide enough power to enable the high voltage contactors to close and the Power Conversion System and DC-DC Converter to work. Once the DC-DC Converter starts, it will charge up the 12v system just like an alternator.
If jump starting it fails, I will probably walk to Walmart (I work a few blocks away from one and chances are that 12v battery will fail while at work) and buy a Group Size 51R battery to use temporarily until my Ohmmu LiFePO4 battery replacement arrives (I won't order it until I need it). Group Size 51R batteries are commonly used on Hondas. They are starter batteries, not deep cycle like a Tesla needs. So they would not have a long lifespan in a Tesla, but will serve in an emergency.
By the way, I'm at 28 months and 45,500 miles and don't expect to have issues with my battery for another few years. Don't forget that Tesla can control and tweak how the 12v battery is charged and discharged, and a bug in firmware early in the year combined with less driving due to the pandemic could be the cause of all the failures we are seeing recently.
Unless the 12v battery has a short or other catastrophic failure, just jumping it should provide enough power to enable the high voltage contactors to close and the Power Conversion System and DC-DC Converter to work. Once the DC-DC Converter starts, it will charge up the 12v system just like an alternator.
If jump starting it fails, I will probably walk to Walmart (I work a few blocks away from one and chances are that 12v battery will fail while at work) and buy a Group Size 51R battery to use temporarily until my Ohmmu LiFePO4 battery replacement arrives (I won't order it until I need it). Group Size 51R batteries are commonly used on Hondas. They are starter batteries, not deep cycle like a Tesla needs. So they would not have a long lifespan in a Tesla, but will serve in an emergency.
By the way, I'm at 28 months and 45,500 miles and don't expect to have issues with my battery for another few years. Don't forget that Tesla can control and tweak how the 12v battery is charged and discharged, and a bug in firmware early in the year combined with less driving due to the pandemic could be the cause of all the failures we are seeing recently.
My 12v battery died at exactly 20 months. Tried to get Tesla cover it under the warranty but Tesla refused and stated that I have aftermarket parts installed (power trunk). If this applies to you, you are better off going to your local automotive store, or go all out and get a light weight lithium battery
smatthew
Active Member
Can anyone post a link to the jump starters that you all use?
You all have my paranoid! I have a summer 2019 build but this doesn't sound like a fun issue to have.
I agree that the shutdown has to be a factor. Cars of all kinds don't like sitting around for long periods of time. I haven't missed a day of work since March, so my car has stuck to its routine. I do believe it's suspicious though because I've been cleaning the interior quite frankly since March!
You all have my paranoid! I have a summer 2019 build but this doesn't sound like a fun issue to have.
I agree that the shutdown has to be a factor. Cars of all kinds don't like sitting around for long periods of time. I haven't missed a day of work since March, so my car has stuck to its routine. I do believe it's suspicious though because I've been cleaning the interior quite frankly since March!
I have the one Costco has been selling for sometime. I won't say it's the best, it was a good price with a discount at the time, at around $39.99. In fact, it's on sale again.
https://www.costco.com/type-s-lithi...nk-with-led-flashlight.product.100425276.html
https://www.costco.com/type-s-lithi...nk-with-led-flashlight.product.100425276.html
sorry... but that 400A peak unit is the lowest quality.... get a NOCO GB40 with 1000A and more energy for $99 instead
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