12V battery. "Will I ever buy another Tesla? Guess."

[Ostrichsak]

That's it? Ostrichsak says don't buy it, so that's all anyone need know?

I've expressed my stance on this topic recently so I refuse to retype everything I said in that conversation because you're unwilling to use the search function of this forum.

It's not hard to find.

If you can't research yourself... enjoy your snake oil.

 

[kindred7]

Here is what I am about to post on Twitter. I thought I'd check in with you guys first to see if I am missing anything.

So before you try this, there is no guarantee it will work. But its worth a shot. So typically your 12V battery only runs down when its not being charged (obviously right). The way this can happen is if the car is left sitting too long or if the your MCU is rebooted while driving.

Assuming your issue is this simple, try and fix this by doing the following.
1) Make sure your HV battery is charged appropriately.
2) Remotely turn on your car's HVAC using the application and leave it running for 30min or so.
3) When complete you can turn the HVAC off remotely or just head out to your car.
4) From the car, go into the settings and change your wheel/rim graphics (this forces the MCU into a deep reset and rechecks the 12V battery).
5) Allow the car to reboot.

If your issue was related to a low battery it should be solved now. If the battery is defective the problem may be still there or may come back.

 

[Watts_Up]

I would recommend getting a 12 V plug adapter displaying the battery voltage to check the voltage and the charge of the battery.

 

[sdmack]

My question: "How risky is it to drive before you replace my 12V battery? Don't want to get stranded and need a tow"

Last week, I got the “replace battery soon” message on my 4 month old 2020 Model S. Earliest appointment I could get was over 3 weeks out. When I asked the same question as above, Tesla Service strongly suggested to bring the car in “at your earliest convenience “, ie don’t wait for the appointment. I brought it in the next day as the shop opened and I was back on the road in just over an hour.

One factor for the expedited service was that it is mid summer in the desert Southwest, and marginal batteries may fail faster. Another factor was that I live 120 miles from the SC, and once I made clear the degree of inconvenience, they expedited the repair. Absolutely, respond back to the appointment confirmation with any special requests or needs.

The SC was definitely awash with cars queued for various repairs; the service manager indicated that up to 25% of the vehicles are in for the 12v swap. If true, indicates a common problem that if resolved, would free up extremely constrained SC resources.

 

[ragedogg69]

I've expressed my stance on this topic recently so I refuse to retype everything I said in that conversation because you're unwilling to use the search function of this forum.

It's not hard to find.

If you can't research yourself... enjoy your snake oil.

Wow, is there an unhelpful button? I understand not wanting to repeat yourself, but why so combative? The guy was just asking for an explanation.

 

[Ostrichsak]

Wow, is there an unhelpful button? I understand not wanting to repeat yourself, but why so combative? The guy was just asking for an explanation.

Combative? Look how he "asked" for an explanation. I don't sugar coat things especially for those who make demands of my time with little to no effort on their end. Ultimately, it's that person's money so what do I care if they want to put forth any effort or not? I at least let them know they should research a little bit before wasting their money which is more than you did so....

 

[ragedogg69]

I at least let them know they should research a little bit before wasting their money which is more than you did so....

k

I will make sure to keep an eye on how many users mark your post as helpful.

 

[Dukeybootie]

My DIY Ohmmu Lithum 12v Model S Refresh Battery Install

Above is the link to the relevant thread. As you can see, some people really get worked up over the existence of the Ohmmu battery for some reason.

 

[Ostrichsak]

k

I will make sure to keep an eye on how many users mark your post as helpful.

Kthxbai

 

[Ostrichsak]

My DIY Ohmmu Lithum 12v Model S Refresh Battery Install

Above is the link to the relevant thread. As you can see, some people really get worked up over the existence of the Ohmmu battery for some reason.

If you're referring to me, I don't get worked up over the fact that it exists. I get worked up over the unscrupulous way it's marketed as a wonder cure when it's not. It literally does nothing to make people's lives better at a premium price tag. It's an answer looking for a question at best. It's an obvious attempt to bilk people out of hundreds of dollars at worst. The latter is more likely than the former and that's why I take umbrage. You get people coming on here with an obvious vested interest in convincing people it's the best thing since sliced bread and they're willing to say anything for a few bucks. Sad. Fake news.

 

[outdoors]

I agree with @Ostrichsak. I would skip the Ohmmu LiPo. Good warranty, yet I don't want another BMS working ahead of my BMS. If the BMS fails on my LiPo I am done. I drive in super cold places with my car. They are also super expensive.

Yet @Ostrichsak also says I am wasting my time and $ when I proactively replace my 12V. As I don't want to see warning, and never want the stranded because of the 12V.

Good thing we can take the advice or leave it here from everyone. Don't ever see anyone demanding time from anyone. After all we have to read then type. No one is forcing the typing fingers.

 

[Ostrichsak]

I agree with @Ostrichsak. I would skip the Ohmmu LiPo. Good warranty, yet I don't want another BMS working ahead of my BMS. If the BMS fails on my LiPo I am done. I drive in super cold places with my car. They are also super expensive.

Yet @Ostrichsak also says I am wasting my time and $ when I proactively replace my 12V. As I don't want to see warning, and never want the stranded because of the 12V.

Good thing we can take the advice or leave it here from everyone. Don't ever see anyone demanding time from anyone. After all we have to read then type. No one is forcing the typing fingers.

It's like changing your motor oil in your ICE car every 500-miles. Sure, this won't hurt anything other than your pocket book but... why? Conventional wisdom is that you can do this every 3,000-5,000 miles typically (even the 3k mile OCI was set by the oil manufacturers themselves) or so. This OCI is still erring WAY on the side of safety though. I've seen countless engine oil analysis come back at over 10k miles saying that the oil thrown out was still good oil. Don't take my word for it though, read up on Bob's the Oil Guy forums and see what real users like you and I have posted over the years. Real actual oil analysis with concrete data rather than these emotional guesses and opinions we're discussing about fantasy 12v batteries.

12v Batteries are no different. You can change yours every other month if it makes you feel better but don't be offended when I call you silly & wasteful for doing so based on endless data that says you're just throwing out good batteries. Unlike oil, you're actually increasing your odds of getting a "bad" battery eventually since a very small percentage of them are defective and will fail early in their service life.

The Tesla is the absolute perfect car to prolong the change intervals of a 12v battery because we don't need the CCA to turn over an engine. Standard ICE cars have much higher demand for amps every single time you use the car and dipping slightly below this requirement can have catastrophic ramifications. This is why, often times, in an ICE car you have little to no sign of 12v battery issues until one morning your car just won't start. It won't start because the immediate demand for amps isn't met. With each successive attempt this is even lower and lower.

All our 12v system does is light duty low-draw things like powering speakers, headlights and turn signals. There's a much more gradual and linear decline which the Tesla will sense WELL ahead of any actual danger. In most cases, this tends to be measured in months after the "low 12v battery" message is triggered before things actually start to fail. Even Tesla reps will tell people they have "months" whenever that message comes on. It measures voltage and the threshold that triggers that warning is quite high actually.

Again, do whatever you want but if you're on here trying to convince others to throw away their money too based on emotion in the face of facts and data that''s when I'll speak up.

 

[Watts_Up]

It's like changing your motor oil in your ICE car every 500-miles. Sure, this won't hurt anything other than your pocket book but... why? Conventional wisdom is that you can do this every 3,000-5,000 miles typically (even the 3k mile OCI was set by the oil manufacturers themselves) or so. This OCI is still erring WAY on the side of safety though. I've seen countless engine oil analysis come back at over 10k miles saying that the oil thrown out was still good oil. Don't take my word for it though, read up on Bob's the Oil Guy forums and see what real users like you and I have posted over the years. Real actual oil analysis with concrete data rather than these emotional guesses and opinions we're discussing about fantasy 12v batteries.

12v Batteries are no different. You can change yours every other month if it makes you feel better but don't be offended when I call you silly & wasteful for doing so based on endless data that says you're just throwing out good batteries. Unlike oil, you're actually increasing your odds of getting a "bad" battery eventually since a very small percentage of them are defective and will fail early in their service life.

The Tesla is the absolute perfect car to prolong the change intervals of a 12v battery because we don't need the CCA to turn over an engine. Standard ICE cars have much higher demand for amps every single time you use the car and dipping slightly below this requirement can have catastrophic ramifications. This is why, often times, in an ICE car you have little to no sign of 12v battery issues until one morning your car just won't start. It won't start because the immediate demand for amps isn't met. With each successive attempt this is even lower and lower.

All our 12v system does is light duty low-draw things like powering speakers, headlights and turn signals. There's a much more gradual and linear decline which the Tesla will sense WELL ahead of any actual danger. In most cases, this tends to be measured in months after the "low 12v battery" message is triggered before things actually start to fail. Even Tesla reps will tell people they have "months" whenever that message comes on. It measures voltage and the threshold that triggers that warning is quite high actually.

Again, do whatever you want but if you're on here trying to convince others to throw away their money too based on emotion in the face of facts and data that''s when I'll speak up.

I try to understand if the battery, the charging, or both have issues?

- 1. When the car is not sleeping, the 12 V battery get recharged. I assume this works fine?

- 2. When the car is sleeping, there is a little bit of phantom drain for the propulsion battery, but I saw that I got like 3% a week,
which is used to cool or to warm the propulsion battery, but does the pumps use the high voltage or the low voltage?

- 3. There must be some drain also for the 12 V battery to keep some electronic and communication devices on.

- 4. I believe that the HVAC (heat and air conditioning) us the propulsion battery, so what the main drain on the 12 V battery, beside Sentry,

- 5. Does the 12 V battery is monitored when the car is sleeping, so if needed the 12 V charging get started even when the car is sleeping or may be then the car wake up to charge the 12 V battery?

 

[Hank42]

I'm on my second 12V battery. I tried to replace it myself the first time, only to find the dreaded reverse polarity issue - I wonder who's pockets got lined at Tesla for that messup - it HAD to have cost them more to get custom 12V batteries made than to simply adjut thier design around a standard pole battery.
In any even the first one lasted 6 years! Go figure. I had Tesla replace it because the labor was "free". 2 years later, my replacement batter has failed. Tesla replaced that, and just charged labor - I heard some grumble from the tech about "bad supply" and "these newer ones are better" . I'll take that with a grain of salt, but there are certainly some evidence among runs of batteries - 6 years out of one, and only 2 from another.

AS someone mentioned - not buying another Tesla because if this is a little extreme no?

 

[Bodyhauler]

I needed to replace my 12v battery too. I made an appointment but misread the date of the appointment. I scheduled the appointment on the app on a Sunday night. I just saw it said my appointment was for Monday. (I didn't look close enough because it was for Monday 2 weeks out.) So I drove to the SC the next day (Monday) and they told me my appointment wasn't for 2 more weeks. But they told me that since I was already there they would see if they had a battery in stock. They did and an hour or so later I was on my way.

I would suggest just going to the sc and see if they'll do it for you asap.

 

[Evee]

My original lead acid lasted over 120k miles! Just got a lipo Ohmmu. Works great less voltage sag.

 

[1windy]

Another option for repair like this MAY be a local authorized collision repair shop. Never know, they certainly can get the parts, how quickly is another story. And I am sure it will be out of pocket.

 

[shodnett]

I got this alert a few weeks ago, I had to drop it off at the local SC and even though they were very busy they had my car ready to pick up the next morning.

 

[Brass Guy]

not buying another Tesla because if this is a little extreme no?

My impression from the OP was not merely that the 12V battery threw a message or needs replacing, but more the way Tesla's service has evolved.
That you cannot call for an appointment, speak with anyone without visiting the service center, nor schedule an appointment less than 2 weeks out (sometimes much more from what I hear) is a terrible situation. I've never really used dealerships, do they treat customers that way too?

I've pretty much stopped using the service center. I've bought 3rd party brake parts, IC screen, headlamps - there may be more.
I'm lucky enough to only live less than 20 miles from a service center so if I need a control arm or tie rod end (I have replaced both front wheel bearings too), it's not too big of a deal to go there and pick up or order one in person - since it seems you cannot call them any more. If I had to drive 2+ hours each way to get there just to order a part to keep my car going, I'd have to think hard about considering another Tesla too.

 

[r1200gs4ok]

I've expressed my stance on this topic recently so I refuse to retype everything I said in that conversation because you're unwilling to use the search function of this forum.

It's not hard to find.

If you can't research yourself... enjoy your snake oil.

then why bother to post that you had already poster