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12v emergency replacement

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So the new battery has been in for 24hrs, no problems. It needed the adapter that was on the deep cycle that Tesla installed around 18 months ago.
The deep cycle is now showing 12.7v, I put a handheld vhf and charger on it to see if a load would affect it and it came down to 12.5.

Now I'm thinking the 12.4 it was showing may have been the result of a vampire load.
 
The cranny has to be a result of procrastinating. The roadster didn't have a 12volt. Guessing at the last minute a spot had to be found for the cursed _______.
Actually, only the v1.0 Roadster didn't have a 12v battery and used part of the HV battery. Bad idea and they switched to a separate 12v battery with v2.0. You really want stuff (steering, brakes, airbags, emergency flashers, etc.) to have power if you need to disconnect the HV or have HV problems. My article may have more than you likely want to know about Tesla's 12v batteries: 12 Volt Battery Compendium – TeslaTap
 
ive done alot of self repair on my car. by far the WORST thing ive ever done is remove my 12v from my 2013 base model S. It was the most knuckle busting piece of work and i almost put it back together and called it quits to tow somewhere. i hated every Fing second of it
wow, so it was THAT bad? I think i may replace mine on the preventative side. It's about 5 years old at this point and was a southern car and is now in a colder state. I'm pretty handy with a wrench but now am having second thoughts...
 
wow, so it was THAT bad? I think i may replace mine on the preventative side. It's aboinstallut 5 years old at this point and was a southern car and is now in a colder state. I'm pretty handy with a wrench but now am having second thoughts...
Plenty of vids on YouTube, a blanket on the fender helps. One of the advantages of the ohmmu replacement is that it's a little smaller and lighter so the install is easier.
 
wow, so it was THAT bad? I think i may replace mine on the preventative side. It's about 5 years old at this point and was a southern car and is now in a colder state. I'm pretty handy with a wrench but now am having second thoughts...
it was for me, i think something changed in late 2013 and 2014 and beyond so some people might not have my headache
 
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Plenty of vids on YouTube, a blanket on the fender helps. One of the advantages of the ohmmu replacement is that it's a little smaller and lighter so the install is easier.
I watched a few videos last night and really my biggest fear is dropping a bolt or nut down in the 'engine' bay. Otherwise, it does look terribly bad. Mine is a 13 so it's buried in the corner of the frunk. Debating to just pay a ranger to come out and pay them their $70 fee to swap it out.

Do you know if any software changes need to occur? I looked at the Tesla service manual (since I signed up for a free year of it earlier this year) and it states that if you are using a new type of battery that a software update is required. If I am going from a Tesla to Tesla battery (same type) than perhaps this is not required?
 
I watched a few videos last night and really my biggest fear is dropping a bolt or nut down in the 'engine' bay. Otherwise, it does look terribly bad. Mine is a 13 so it's buried in the corner of the frunk. Debating to just pay a ranger to come out and pay them their $70 fee to swap it out.

Do you know if any software changes need to occur? I looked at the Tesla service manual (since I signed up for a free year of it earlier this year) and it states that if you are using a new type of battery that a software update is required. If I am going from a Tesla to Tesla battery (same type) than perhaps this is not required?
for 70 bucks id pay that ALL day. but again maybe i was doing something wrong.
 
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Just so you know, when the mobile tesla technician replaced the battery in my 70D, he did do some sort of software reboot, which required 15 or 20 minutes. So unless you are sure you know what that might entail, I'd certainly have Tesla do it -- worth it to get it done correctly, in my book.
 
I had my 12v battery replaced after 5 years in my 2016 S. Tesla changed the battery vendor for improved reliability and did something in the software to properly charge it, as the charging profile changed. I didn't get the impression it was a big change so the old profile may have worked reasonably well. The charging profile is based partly on temperature, limiting the charging current when cold for battery longevity. I'm in CA, so rarely is cold weather an issue for me.
 
Anyone know how the 12V battery detection works? Mine's been going off for the last 8 months and still kicking. The car is a 11/13 built S85 with 120K miles on it; 12V battery is 3yr/30K miles old. Using my Anker 12V battery monitor, the battery has fluctuated between 12.7V-13.7V with an average of 13.4V. I was quoted through the Tesla app that the replacement would be $270 back in April. Was debating to just buy the battery and install it myself, but I haven't had a good year wrenching this year (took me 6 hours to get my turbo vane position sensor and solenoid replaced on my old Duramax...made a lot of mistakes and dropped a few fasteners spending an hour fishing them out).
 
I watched a few videos last night and really my biggest fear is dropping a bolt or nut down in the 'engine' bay. Otherwise, it does look terribly bad. Mine is a 13 so it's buried in the corner of the frunk. Debating to just pay a ranger to come out and pay them their $70 fee to swap it out.

Do you know if any software changes need to occur? I looked at the Tesla service manual (since I signed up for a free year of it earlier this year) and it states that if you are using a new type of battery that a software update is required. If I am going from a Tesla to Tesla battery (same type) than perhaps this is not required?
Ohmmu works without software updates or issues as long as you follow the instructions. I don't have a quote but it was a simple step.
 
Anyone know how the 12V battery detection works? Mine's been going off for the last 8 months and still kicking. The car is a 11/13 built S85 with 120K miles on it; 12V battery is 3yr/30K miles old. Using my Anker 12V battery monitor, the battery has fluctuated between 12.7V-13.7V with an average of 13.4V. I was quoted through the Tesla app that the replacement would be $270 back in April. Was debating to just buy the battery and install it myself, but I haven't had a good year wrenching this year (took me 6 hours to get my turbo vane position sensor and solenoid replaced on my old Duramax...made a lot of mistakes and dropped a few fasteners spending an hour fishing them out).
That intermittent 12v issue may be due to a corroded ground post. It's under the frunk on the framework. One of the list of the things that can shut the car down.
 
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