12V outlets always-on hack

[ohmman]

Has anyone figured out a way to keep the 12V "cigarette lighter" outlets in the front and (especially) back always-on? I know this post from @Ingineer details how to do it in a pre-facelift S, but it doesn't seem to apply to a modern X.

I will be buying a new Model X shortly to replace my 2016 90D. I haven't tried this mod on my car, but it would be really helpful for my electric cooler on long camping trips.

 

[TechVP]

Camp mode works for me. -TechVP

 

[ecarfan]

Camp mode works for me. -TechVP

Okay, but then the HVAC is running and drawing power. I also want what @ohmman describes; the 12V outlets live all the time so I can power a Dometic cooler I keep in the trunk when on a camping trip with my trailer.

 

[AdamHLG]

Run a wire from the trailer hitch cable connector under the dash and install an always on separate 12VDC socket. I did this to power my dashcam and hotspot.

 

[ohmman]

Run a wire from the trailer hitch cable connector under the dash and install an always on separate 12VDC socket. I did this to power my dashcam and hotspot.

Yeah, I've considered that. I wired into that already for my trailer. I really wanted that rear 12V to stay on, and I don't feel like running it that far. There are extension cords, but from a cleanliness standpoint, somehow hacking those to always-on would be much cleaner.

Thanks, though..

 

[TechVP]

There is one other way in the model X. In the passenger side foot well, there is a fusebox where a 12V tap can be placed. I received the service manual section for it some years back. Although I had already, at the time, done the Power Brake mod for my always ON 12V, I kept this info in case I needed it. If you would like it, send me a PM. -TechVP

 

[Janus]

What if you leave Sentry Mode on? I was under the impression that Sentry Mode would leave the 12V system online.

 

[ohmman]

I finally got my new X at the end of September. I left on a monthlong camping trip immediately afterwards and have been using Camp Mode to keep the 12V on during this trip. It's not ideal, but I've been setting the HVAC to manual with fan at 1, A/C off, and temperature at LO. That way the fan runs all night but no resistance heat or AC compressor. Consumption is minimal, but it's still not the solution I want. I'll track down the live 12V in the console footwell once I return.

 

[puhiniho]

Curious why you don't just post the info? Why ask people to PM?

There is one other way in the model X. In the passenger side foot well, there is a fusebox where a 12V tap can be placed. I received the service manual section for it some years back. Although I had already, at the time, done the Power Brake mod for my always ON 12V, I kept this info in case I needed it. If you would like it, send me a PM. -TechVP

 

[mjptech]

Curious why you don't just post the info? Why ask people to PM?

It's available in the forums... and, you can get it from Tesla's website..
12V battery access and location

 

[ohmman]

There are some challenges with the "Camp Mode" hack. First, if you arrive with lower than a 20% SOC, it will not enable, even if you're connected to power and actively charging. That seems like something that needs to be adjusted irrespective of using the 12V. We arrived late at a campsite with a 10% charge. Getting to 20% was going to take well over an hour and we were going to sleep, so I couldn't use this method.

I have decided that I'm probably going to purchase a female 12V socket (probably one of the combo ones that includes fast-charging USB ports as well), and run the extra 12V lead to the back of the car where I'll mount it. The other option would be to just rewire the existing socket to that lead, but I don't like the positioning of that socket as it sticks out in front of my cooler when it's connected, and if the cooler slides at all, it can dislodge the plug.

Either way, whatever I choose will be posted here once I get it done.

 

[Janus]

There are some challenges with the "Camp Mode" hack. First, if you arrive with lower than a 20% SOC, it will not enable, even if you're connected to power and actively charging. That seems like something that needs to be adjusted irrespective of using the 12V. We arrived late at a campsite with a 10% charge. Getting to 20% was going to take well over an hour and we were going to sleep, so I couldn't use this method.

I have decided that I'm probably going to purchase a female 12V socket (probably one of the combo ones that includes fast-charging USB ports as well), and run the extra 12V lead to the back of the car where I'll mount it. The other option would be to just rewire the existing socket to that lead, but I don't like the positioning of that socket as it sticks out in front of my cooler when it's connected, and if the cooler slides at all, it can dislodge the plug.

Either way, whatever I choose will be posted here once I get it done.

Maybe camp mode is different, but I've recently noticed that several other of the <20% features (always on A/C, Sentry Mode, etc) will continue to function when <20% but connected to power. I don't recall what update that was changed in, but it definitely used to not be that way.

 

[ohmman]

So here we are, 9ish months later, and I finally got around to trying this passenger-side console red-with-white-stripe always-on sorry-for-the-excessive-hyphenation circuit. Sadly, it no longer stays on when the car is off. I don't know if this is part of an effort by Tesla to stifle vampire drain, but I don't want anyone else going through the hour long process of removing panels, finding the wiring, cutting, crimping connectors, and then finding out it doesn't work. Thankfully I did not run wiring to the back of the vehicle or I'd be pretty upset.

I'm going back to square one and considering the other fuse boxes and/or a direct run to the 12V battery. Or, the cop out - a portable battery bank plugged into the car's 12V which will bridge the gap when the car is turned off.

Edit here to note: I am looking at this because camp mode has used about 20 miles of range per night (~5kWh). That's an entirely unacceptable loss considering the cooler I'm running is only drawing at absolute max 0.5kWh during that time, but more like 0.15-0.25kWh.

 

[MSM X100]

So here we are, 9ish months later, and I finally got around to trying this passenger-side console red-with-white-stripe always-on sorry-for-the-excessive-hyphenation circuit. Sadly, it no longer stays on when the car is off. I don't know if this is part of an effort by Tesla to stifle vampire drain, but I don't want anyone else going through the hour long process of removing panels, finding the wiring, cutting, crimping connectors, and then finding out it doesn't work. Thankfully I did not run wiring to the back of the vehicle or I'd be pretty upset.

I'm going back to square one and considering the other fuse boxes and/or a direct run to the 12V battery. Or, the cop out - a portable battery bank plugged into the car's 12V which will bridge the gap when the car is turned off.

Edit here to note: I am looking at this because camp mode has used about 20 miles of range per night (~5kWh). That's an entirely unacceptable loss considering the cooler I'm running is only drawing at absolute max 0.5kWh during that time, but more like 0.15-0.25kWh.

I plugged my cooler into the trailer Brake Controller plug. It is always on. (I’m not towing anything). I added an on/off switch under the steering wheel knee panel.

 

[F123456]

@MSM X100 , which cooler do you have, and have you noticed any significant drain to the HVBP or the 12V battery?I just got a Dometic CFX3, and am trying to find the best way to run it.

 

[ohmman]

I plugged my cooler into the trailer Brake Controller plug. It is always on. (I’m not towing anything). I added an on/off switch under the steering wheel knee panel.

My problem is that I have a brake controller connected to that, and when I have my cooler plugged in, 95% of the time I'm on a camping trip. I don't want to blow a fuse by running both the brake controller and cooler.

Because I have a trip coming up this week, I have purchased a small 240Wh portable power station, which will charge from my portable solar panels when parked and from the car when driving. It should be enough to bridge the gap, especially since nighttime temperatures are forecast in the 40s. It'll allow me to punt this project forward a bit as well.

 

[idoco]

My problem is that I have a brake controller connected to that, and when I have my cooler plugged in, 95% of the time I'm on a camping trip. I don't want to blow a fuse by running both the brake controller and cooler.

Because I have a trip coming up this week, I have purchased a small 240Wh portable power station, which will charge from my portable solar panels when parked and from the car when driving. It should be enough to bridge the gap, especially since nighttime temperatures are forecast in the 40s. It'll allow me to punt this project forward a bit as well.

Short term solution...put the cooler in the frunk. Run wire directly from the the dc/dc stud in the frunk fuse box. Use a megafuse and switch or a dc circuit breaker. Only a couple feet so 12ga should easily support a 15A-20A circuit.

 

[F123456]

Depending on the cooler, more space might be needed around it for heat dissipation…

 

[idoco]

Depending on the cooler, more space might be needed around it for heat dissipation…

Good point. Could make a longer cord and run externally. Doesn't necessarily have to be permanently mounted initially.

 

[ohmman]

My cooler won't fit in the trunk (too tall) and I agree on circulation. I may just abandon using the 12V system on my Tesla for this, depending on how my portable battery and solar setup works. One secondary downside to drawing down the 12V for a cooler is that the car seemingly needs to wake more often to charge that 12V battery with the DC-DC converter. More wakes means more vampire drain, and it's already relatively aggressive on my 2020 LR++ LX. We often find ourselves in forest service campgrounds relatively far from charging and having to manage range to get ourselves back to the nearest Supercharger. If I'm at the edges of our range, 20 extra miles of vampire drain over 4-5 days can mean skipping a drive to a trailhead and missing out on a desired hike.

I'm about to test this battery and solar setup this week and I'll let everyone know how it goes.