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12V Switched Power in Rear (Radar Detector Install)

Discussion in 'Model 3: Interior & Exterior' started by mswlogo, Oct 18, 2018.

  1. mswlogo

    mswlogo Well-Known Member

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    I had initially posted a few photos of the testing I was doing on this unique Radar Detector location in the Radar Detector thread. I finally finished my Valentine One install and thought it deserved a separate thread because what I did could be used for other applications. Like a Rear DashCam. I think it came out awesome.

    To summarize I'm using an application on my Phone called V1Driver to completely control the V1 via Bluetooth. I have AutoMute and Speed Mute on all bands. So I never have to touch the V1 directly. It will announce Band and Direction over the car radio. The only awkward thing it does not do is verbally tell you a critical alert is still present after it mutes it. I may mount a Valentine One Concealed display facing forward so I can check it in the rear view mirror. Some other Radar Detectors might work as well like an Escort 360. However the Escort will never AutoMute Ka. So if you get stuck near a cruiser it could get real annoying.

    Also as I mentioned in the Radar Detector thread, I did not want to impact the clean Model 3 look with a Radar Detector. Nor did I want to tap power or route wires anywhere in the front to avoid Service issues. The V1 is stuck up there using 3M Dual Lock (same as EzPass). So I could take it down very easily. And if I remember to turn it off, I doubt anyone would ever notice it unless they were looking for it. You'll also see where I mounted my EzPass.

    This is where I tapped power, on the Rear Amp. Note: Any time the car is not "Sleeping" this is ON. It is on more often than the Cigarette Lighter Adapter Circuit. But it does shut OFF. I bent U shape lug to 90 degrees and wedged it in there. I didn't want to tap the wire. Partly because it's very large gauge. The V1 is immediately fused after the tap.

    [​IMG]

    This is where I mount the Valentine One Hardwire Kit. Grounded to Radio and Clips on the Subwoofer.

    [​IMG]
    This is the route to get up to the inside of the bottom of the rear window

    [​IMG]

    The lining comes out easy. Just fold back the trunk gasket. You do not have to remove gasket. I tied it back with string while I worked.

    [​IMG]

    This are the plastic rivets you have to remove to get the center trim off before you can peel back the lining.
    Getting these rivets back in was the hardest part. They come out easy. But they are a little bit sprung and the whole has very sharp edges. Maybe a file on the hole edges to smooth it or a little bit of lube would have helped.

    [​IMG]

    This is a close up of the center trim you need to remove. So you can see how the clips work. You do not have to pull hard and it came out very easy and went back in easy. Except those darn rivets.

    [​IMG]

    You need to remove this rivet on each side. Pull the center plug back with a small screw driver then wiggle the whole plug out.

    [​IMG]

    This is where I went down into trunk. I shined a flash light from the bottom at night to find it. It goes direct to trunk. It's not along some path. Just push the wire down and you'll see it below. It's in a little double wall cavity though. Which has lots of large holes in it.

    [​IMG]

    This is what the V1 looks like looking back from drivers seat.

    [​IMG]

    This is the path the wire takes in the cabin. I used a plastic pry bar to tension the trim away from glass as I tuck the wire in. Some spot didn't even need the prying but some did. It varied a bit.


    [​IMG]

    And more... It was a little snug around the rear defog connector. But was fine.

    [​IMG]

    Looking up at V1 from rear seat. The Dongle and splitter could be in trunk but it might not get a good signal there.
    I might add the conceal display facing forward.

    [​IMG]
     
    • Like x 3
  2. mtapes

    mtapes Member

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    Thanks very much. A lot of useful info here.
     
  3. lairdb

    lairdb Member

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    There is a trick.

    The center post is pulled back to relieve the expansion and allow the fastener to be removed. The center post is retained as a part of the assembly by a ridge on one of the four expansion fingers. If you gently pull the correct finger slightly outward, you can remove the center post entirely. The fastener body can be easily popped into place, and the center post reinserted fully.
     
  4. mswlogo

    mswlogo Well-Known Member

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    Yeah, I figured that out recently when I had to remove/hide wiring for rear glass repair.

    Thx.
     
  5. TonyJag

    TonyJag Member

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    #5 TonyJag, Jul 25, 2020
    Last edited: Jul 25, 2020
    Yes, thanks for this very creative solution! It also keeps the V1 out of the sun and out of sight. You likely found no switched 12V in the light panel where you mounted the V1, right? Does the V1 perform well from that location, on radar and laser? Could you mount a small mirror behind the V1 so you can see the display in the rear view mirror? 2 mirrors would cancel any reversing, right?

    Thankfully, Teslas don't use lasers and the radar is millimeter wave, not any traffic band. Our 2015 Volvo has its forward looking collision detection laser on constantly, so I had to add attenuating tape to the front IR window.

    I have had V1s for decades and am thinking about upgrading the older one to Gen2, which just came out, for my new Model3. It has many great features, including built in bluetooth, so no dongle needed. Thoughts?
     
  6. mswlogo

    mswlogo Well-Known Member

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    It worked great in that location. Including laser. I also tried it upside down and reversed front to back which made the arrow a correct in the mirror :) I used an option in V1Driver to reverse the Verbal direction. I didn’t even try to tap the light since if I recall it dimmed and unlikely would have switched 12V up there, but it’s possible.

    I have a Gen2 now. Mounted in a Model X. But it is mounted on the glass part way up above the mirror. I used a mirror tap on the X. Model X has a connector for the mirror near the light but I have not been brave enough to pull headliner down. I’d prefer tap that and move it all the way back. Close to where it was in the Model 3.
     
  7. TonyJag

    TonyJag Member

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    Thanks. FYI
     
  8. mswlogo

    mswlogo Well-Known Member

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    Who do you think wrote V1Driver ;)
     
  9. TonyJag

    TonyJag Member

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    George Mills of Softronics? Well done! We are in Bolton MA.
     
  10. mswlogo

    mswlogo Well-Known Member

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    Hey neighbor, thanks, Bolton is a beautiful town. It’s those back roads of Berlin, Bolton towns I need to run K-Band for ;)
     
  11. snotty

    snotty New Member

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    Thank you OP. I realize you wrote this a while ago, but found your post recently after searching to do a similar install. Lots of useful info. (I can't 'like' posts yet since my comment count is too low).
     
    • Like x 1
  12. mswlogo

    mswlogo Well-Known Member

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    I can like yours though. Thanks.
     

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