12v Switched?

[s88ats]

Just finished a bag install and used that method. The controller display flashes and dims. Eventually it turned off. Hmmmm

Thanks for letting me know. I assumed as no one else replied it must have only been me! Sorry to hear about your controller btw.

I'll probably check my install over with a multimeter to try and understand what's going on when in gear, but as it was working prior to the update, whats the odds in another update breaking it, again.

I hope it's not signs of a potential 12v issue brewing.

 

[s88ats]

Sold my SR+ I originally did all the work on and got a 22 LR, no clue when ill get around to messing with it. My SR+ didnt have the footwell lights but did they always dim when you put it into drive like it does on my LR.

Its that or wherever you are getting constant 12v is dropping when you place it into drive.

Yes, seems to be since the update something has changed. Was working flawlessly until then but wanted to clarify I wasn't the only one this happened to.

The only difference to my installation was to put the "trigger wire (bottom right)" as the front footwells, which are supposed to dim. Why this would cause my ambient lights to dim when that should be getting 12v from the blue accessory wire is a mystery to me.

 

[Idkorcare]

Yes, seems to be since the update something has changed. Was working flawlessly until then but wanted to clarify I wasn't the only one this happened to.

The only difference to my installation was to put the "trigger wire (bottom right)" as the front footwells, which are supposed to dim. Why this would cause my ambient lights to dim when that should be getting 12v from the blue accessory wire is a mystery to me.

I dont think it your problem but I wouldnt use the ambient footwell lights for a trigger because they dim, I havent verified it myself but pretty sure the lights dim by dropping voltage and that can make a relay freak out but that should display as an on/off flicker. Most likely whereever your blue wire is connected is now dipping down same as the ambient lights. Easy test would be disconnect it and run a wire to the 12v battery under the hood and see what happens

 

[s88ats]

A follow-up in case anyone else stumbles across this, my issue was resolved by another software update! I hadn't found the time to open it up to investigate with a multimeter, but the car auto-updated (2022.4.5.3), it reverted back to how it was - functioning as it should

Another case of Tesla give'th and Tesla take'th

 

[efmonster]

For those that want to tap the high-current 30A feed for the audio amp, it can be tapped in the trunk (right rear) look for the silver box, and the wire is a fat red (3mm). It's also present at VCRight in the right kick panel on the large 6 pin connector. (X054) It's symmetrically opposite my tap of VCLeft.

View attachment 547216

I was asked how much current this can handle. It really depends on how loud you pump the bass on the audio system. If you don't blast it to it's fullest potential, then it's probably safe to pull 20A from there. It's a super efficient class-D amp, so only at the extreme end of output will it peak 30A. If you never take it over level 8, you should be good. I've run both an electric cooler and small 300W inverter of this while jamming out and not had it trip out.

dam Thats some interesting info

 

[marcao]

Ingineer said:
For those that want to tap the high-current 30A feed for the audio amp, it can be tapped in the trunk (right rear) look for the silver box, and the wire is a fat red (3mm).

Can someone confirm that a switched source for 12V can be obtained by tapping the thick red wire marked in this picture? I would like to tap it with an inline fuse to power a Stealth Hitch wiring kit. The standard instructions from Stealth Hitches route the wires to the 12V battery in the Frunk. Does not make any sense if there is this power source right next to where the passive module is to be installed. I understand that not all cars will have his amplifier installed. I have the premium sound option on my 2018 Model 3.

 

[WhiteM3P-]

Can confirm the brown wire method is still a solid option. Sentry does wake it momentarily if turned on after walking away and the car has had a chance to sleep. Otherwise, it's only on when door opens or car is occupied and shuts off the second the last person shuts their door.

 

[eglove]

Can also confirm brown wire for switch and thick blue for constant - just finished an install and it all works!

 

[kodenco]

Did the same as this guy on my 2021 SR+. VC_RIGHT, no relay, but used a fused hardwire kit. The wiring looms look a little bit different on the 2021, but used a safety pin to multi-meter the red wires until I found the one that would provide 12-13v when car was on and someone was sitting on the front seat....drops down to 1.2v then 0v after a while when you get out of the car.
View attachment 694803

Just wanted to add to the thread that this method is still relevant on my 22 LR. Same wire is still switched power.

 

[Ernest H]

can someone please take a photo of the connector and harness of the brown wire (for switched 12v)? I understand it is beneath the rear vent pop-out panel, but if I remembered correctly there is only the OBD connector there?

 

[eglove]

can someone please take a photo of the connector and harness of the brown wire (for switched 12v)? I understand it is beneath the rear vent pop-out panel, but if I remembered correctly there is only the OBD connector there?

There's only one brown wire - you can't miss it, and it's not an OBD connector - if you had a y cable to OBD that's where it would go though

 

[WhiteM3P-]

There's only one brown wire - you can't miss it, and it's not an OBD connector - if you had a y cable to OBD that's where it would go though

That's exactly what I did. I tapped it into the aftermarket harness rather than anything factory.

 

[Ernest H]

So it is just a loose wire not taped to any harness? I will take a look after.

 

[Ernest H]

Are these these the ones you're referring to? They are different gauge size from others in the OBD plug. Otherwise I'm not seeing other loose wire there.

 

[eglove]

Are these these the ones you're referring to? They are different gauge size from others in the OBD plug. Otherwise I'm not seeing other loose wire there.

You're looking at the little brown wire for switched right in the middle there, then the thick blue for constant

 

[s88ats]

For my model Y I purchased a Egen Cellink NEO 6 lipo battery to avoid tapping into wires as I did for my model 3 - planning on powering my ambient lights and my dashcam from the cellink. I most likely will tap into the footwells to get the trigger for my relay. Rather than a switched 12v, I was going to run the wire to the cig socket as I don't use it to keep the cellink topped up. Has anyone else done anything similar?

 

[Ernest H]

You're looking at the little brown wire for switched right in the middle there, then the thick blue for constant

Okay, will probably test it out tmr thanks

 

[Ernest H]

You're looking at the little brown wire for switched right in the middle there, then the thick blue for constant

in the blue connector, there are two thin brown wires (and one more lighter shade brown..). Corner four wires are thicker (brown, black, and the other two corners, blue and yellow). I'm pretty certain the thick brown and blue runs up to the 12v cigarette as well. Will test that out sometime this week.

 

[Ernest H]

I do believe my March 2022 MIC RWD has different sockets / harness compared with NA vehicles, since a lot of yous been saying there is still the brown wire there, but can confirm there is none by itself and that in the diagnostic connector there are two thin browns and one thick. The thick blue traces back to ciggy +15.5 and thick brown to ciggy -ve. the thin browns, actually BN @ 8 and TN @ 2 leads to X293 (front console bin switch) and X294 (rear console bin switch).

 

[Gokk]

I do believe my March 2022 MIC RWD has different sockets / harness compared with NA vehicles, since a lot of yous been saying there is still the brown wire there, but can confirm there is none by itself and that in the diagnostic connector there are two thin browns and one thick. The thick blue traces back to ciggy +15.5 and thick brown to ciggy -ve. the thin browns, actually BN @ 8 and TN @ 2 leads to X293 (front console bin switch) and X294 (rear console bin switch).

View attachment 874384

Sorry for being a noob but I am trying to find a 12v signal to send to my amp’s remote wire. Rather than tap into the cigarette +ve wire at the harness (thick blue wire) can I not just tap the positive wire directly going into the cigarette lighter socket itself? ie. At the lighter end, rather than the harness end? Is there a difference?