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12v System Failure While Driving

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I have MY end of Q3 2021 release. The car died 2 times when not connected to charger for more than 3 days. When screen is dead, the car can still open. Connecting to charger wakes it up. Is it 12v battery or PCS
The two times when you stated that your Tesla Model Y "died" how were you able to start up the Model Y? When the 12V battery fails then you would not be able to unlock the doors; you would need to apply a 12V jump starter to the leads behind the tow hook cover (US driver's side of front bumper), then apply the 12V jump starter leads to the 12V battery so you can unlock the doors, power on.
 
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I have MY end of Q3 2021 release. The car died 2 times when not connected to charger for more than 3 days. When screen is dead, the car can still open. Connecting to charger wakes it up. Is it 12v battery or PCS
That sounds more like deep sleep. It can take multiple seconds for the screen to start up once you open the door, when awakening. You're essentially powering up a computer. More so when it's cool or cold.
 
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That sounds more like deep sleep. It can take multiple seconds for the screen to start up once you open the door, when awakening. You're essentially powering up a computer. More so when it's cool or cold.
In both cases I was pushing brake pedal or tried to reboot and the screen did not come up. It was deeper than just sleep. But yes, in both cases the doors opened and I remember in second time even heater was working. But screen is dead no way to enter pin. After different tries to get it back to life I connected to the charge and it got live. Charge was ~60%.
Why I thought on 12v as it was screen dead and after connecting the max charge showed was 5A vs my default 48A.
The problem is I now afraid to leave the car for more than 3 days not charged. So won’t use it for long trips. I also wanted to leave it with full charge not connected for a week to reproduce, but afraid if my wife will be driving it and get into situation similar to OP of this post.
Any recommendations are appreciated.
 
In both cases I was pushing brake pedal or tried to reboot and the screen did not come up. It was deeper than just sleep. But yes, in both cases the doors opened and I remember in second time even heater was working. But screen is dead no way to enter pin. After different tries to get it back to life I connected to the charge and it got live. Charge was ~60%.
Why I thought on 12v as it was screen dead and after connecting the max charge showed was 5A vs my default 48A.
The problem is I now afraid to leave the car for more than 3 days not charged. So won’t use it for long trips. I also wanted to leave it with full charge not connected for a week to reproduce, but afraid if my wife will be driving it and get into situation similar to OP of this post.
Any recommendations are appreciated.
Turn off PIN to Drive until the screen issue is resolved.
 
In both cases I was pushing brake pedal or tried to reboot and the screen did not come up. It was deeper than just sleep. But yes, in both cases the doors opened and I remember in second time even heater was working. But screen is dead no way to enter pin. After different tries to get it back to life I connected to the charge and it got live. Charge was ~60%.
Why I thought on 12v as it was screen dead and after connecting the max charge showed was 5A vs my default 48A.
The problem is I now afraid to leave the car for more than 3 days not charged. So won’t use it for long trips. I also wanted to leave it with full charge not connected for a week to reproduce, but afraid if my wife will be driving it and get into situation similar to OP of this post.
Any recommendations are appreciated.
Again, you wouldn't even be able to access the car if the 12v was dead, and the heat certainly wouldn't work. I'm not even sure the charge port door would open.
 
I had the same thing happen to my MYLR 6 days after taking delivery. Our car broke down 100 miles from home. When we went to get back into it, the car wouldn't start. Same warnings as you. They towed the car to a dealer that was only a couple of miles away. After that everything was a pure nightmare. Even though roadside assistance said the dealer would work on the car, when we got there they were reluctant to do so. They wanted to give us Uber credits to get home. Ultimately, they did try to swap out the 12v but it didn't work and they gave us a loaner. It took a week to replace the Power Conversion System. It was very difficult to get information from the repair shop or to get any support from Tesla. My feeling at the end is that Elon Musk has imprinted his personality disorder on the entire company. Tesla did exactly nothing to make the situation easier/better. All of that being said, we love our new Model Y. The only comfort was that in searching for Power Conversion System failures, I could not find much discussion. I'm glad that not many people are having to deal with this.
So, have a 2022 MY that sufferred a catastrophic failure stopping the car and then got rear ended.
It was taken to the body shop who could not get the car to power up. They replaced the pyrotech, the 12v lithium battery and still it wouldn't power up. So, they took it to the Tesla service who took 4 weeks to figure out that it was the PCS that had failed. Actual part is ASSEMBLY POWER CONVERSION SYSTEM - 48AMP - 1PHASE(1135558-04-A).
They are saying it is not under warranty even though the car only has 18,732 miles on it.

After reading all the owner's failure stories of this part, I felt obligated to file a NHTSA complaint. Here is the short part of the complaint and number for reference if anyone else wants to chime in and make eLon pay.

NHTSA Request #1479962 Tesla Model Y and some Model 3 catastrophic failures of PCS.
 
So, have a 2022 MY [...] They are saying it is not under warranty even though the car only has 18,732 miles on it.
Before we get to the NHTSA part, this doesn't make any sense at all. Everything should be covered by the initial 4 year warranty. You are way under the years and way under the miles, so this can't be out of warranty yet. So you shouldn't be accepting that answer that it's out of warranty. What explanation did they give for this wrong answer?

Yes, that's an ongoing frustration about the failing PCS units, but that's for people with cars older than 4 years that really are out of warranty. Yours isn't.

Also, PCS failures don't suddenly stop the car, so we would really like to hear more about what symptoms it showed during that event.
 
Tesla will automatically apply a charge for any repair. Once Tesla has examined the vehicle and diagnosed the problem Tesla may cover the cost under the warranty. If less than 4 years and 50k miles the only way Tesla could reasonably deny a warranty claim would be if Tesla found that the vehicle had been involved in an accident or if the vehicle had been altered in a way that would void the warranty. In this case you may have to prove that the PCS failure happened before the rear-end collision. Since the PCS failure led to a complete loss of power and the collision happened immediately after the PCS failed it may be difficult to get Tesla to honor the repair. You normally have the option for independent mediation of this type of dispute.
 
I feel foolish for forgetting that part. The car was involved in an accident. It doesn't matter what happened just before that. Repairing the damage to the car including the internal components should be routed through the deductible and insurance coverage. So wouldn't this bill from Tesla just be submitted right back to the insurance company for reimbursement?
 
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It's not listed in the owner's manual that I could find. If someone has a more thorough understanding please feel free to correct.

The PCS is an LRU that sits on the main battery. Primary functions are to convert AC to DC for charging and 400v>12v for the 12v bus. It's modular in that there are a couple of subsystems that make up the PCS but the entire system is contained inside one singular LRU.

@Rice&Curry
Most of the PCS failures I have read about in this forum are related to the AC charging section of the board. I believe the PCS also performs a DC-to-DC boost (12/16V to pack voltage) function to pre-charge the high voltage buss to the pack voltage prior to closing the contactors.