12v wire tap for Radar Detector

[uhagiluergvblu]

Heads up, for any new Model 3 owners reading this thread...

I placed my order on May 14th, and took delivery on June 4th (in case this gives indication of manufactured date, which I'm guessing is May 2019 from various stickers found around the car).

In my Model 3 Performance this port is already occupied by a red wire and not available for the "plug in, non-destructive" method of obtaining switched 12V. Hopefully this saves someone a few minutes pulling off panels trying to get at it (though really, you should still pull them off and poke around. )

 

[Zimmra]

Heads up, for any new Model 3 owners reading this thread...

I placed my order on May 14th, and took delivery on June 4th (in case this gives indication of manufactured date, which I'm guessing is May 2019 from various stickers found around the car).

In my Model 3 Performance this port is already occupied by a red wire and not available for the "plug in, non-destructive" method of obtaining switched 12V. Hopefully this saves someone a few minutes pulling off panels trying to get at it (though really, you should still pull them off and poke around. )

Did you find an alternative way of getting switched 12V? I am thinking of tapping this wire with a positap, but it is quite difficult to reach. Any suggestions are appreciated

 

[surfrasch]

Did you find an alternative way of getting switched 12V? I am thinking of tapping this wire with a positap, but it is quite difficult to reach. Any suggestions are appreciated

wow I started this thread last year, it lives on! If you go back to the beginning, one of the videos shows a method to tap into a wire that's located inside the drivers side door jam. That's what I did in the end, has worked fine since. It's pretty easily accessible, but the issue is that there is a tied together bundle of wires and you need to find the right one. In my car, the right wire was way inside the bundle and took some work to access it. Good luck!

 

[Zimmra]

wow I started this thread last year, it lives on! If you go back to the beginning, one of the videos shows a method to tap into a wire that's located inside the drivers side door jam. That's what I did in the end, has worked fine since. It's pretty easily accessible, but the issue is that there is a tied together bundle of wires and you need to find the right one. In my car, the right wire was way inside the bundle and took some work to access it. Good luck!

Good looking out!
On newer model 3s, the pin on the (hard to reach) connector is occupied by a red wire of similar gauge to the blue wire in that video, and I believe it runs down that same trunk of wires.
I'll tap whichever of the two is easier to pull from the trunk. Now I just need to get blue posi-taps, only had red on hand!

 

[surfrasch]

Good looking out!
On newer model 3s, the pin on the (hard to reach) connector is occupied by a red wire of similar gauge to the blue wire in that video, and I believe it runs down that same trunk of wires.
I'll tap whichever of the two is easier to pull from the trunk. Now I just need to get blue posi-taps, only had red on hand!

sure thing....the main thing with that bundle of wires in the door jam, is to check it before hand with a multi-meter to make sure you have the correct 12v feed.

 

[AdamVIP]

Blendmount offers a mirror tap kit for the Model 3. That seems like the way to go if it works.

 

[Kbra]

I'm working on a video for this as we speak but the written photo version can be found here.
How to Hard Wire Install a Radar Detector to the Tesla Model 3 | LivingTesla

 

[Kbra]

Blendmount offers a mirror tap kit for the Model 3. That seems like the way to go if it works.

Something may have changed but last I read the mirror location only provides constant on, for dashcam type use, not switched radar.

 

[destructure00]

Something may have changed but last I read the mirror location only provides constant on, for dashcam type use, not switched radar.

Yep. Actual mirror wires don't have power. There's constant 12v power in the harness that feeds the nearby assembly with the hazard switch and reading lights, but you have to go elsewhere for switched power.

 

[Plug-n-Play]

I have a recent built 3P and just tapped into the thick red wire that Tesla now connects to the harness by VC Left. If you open the door jamb panel, it's the thickest wire in that bundle going down the leading edge. Can't miss it.

It comes on with the rest of the car when you open the doors, it goes off with the rest of the car when you get out of the driver seat and leave the vehicle.

 

[Smaug523]

Plug-n-Play,

Do you have pics of where you tapped that red wire? It seems like this is the "go to" place for new M3 builds if you want switched 12V.

 

[Smaug523]

Also, what power cable did you use guys to run from the Posi-Tap to the detector? Will the Blendmount hardtap kit work or is there a better option?

HardTap Radar Detector HardWire Kit With In-line Fuse, RJ-11, 8' Long

Thanks for any info/help!

Zack

 

[Plug-n-Play]

Plug-n-Play,

Do you have pics of where you tapped that red wire? It seems like this is the "go to" place for new M3 builds if you want switched 12V.

Unfortunately I didn’t snap any pics before putting everything back. You can’t miss it though, it’s the thickest wire in the bundle that goes down the A-Pillar side of the door.

 

[surfrasch]

Unfortunately I didn’t snap any pics before putting everything back. You can’t miss it though, it’s the thickest wire in the bundle that goes down the A-Pillar side of the door.

guys, this wire is the one I used.....go back in the early pages of this thread, pics are there.

 

[Smaug523]

surfrasch,

Where did you ground your circuit?

 

[surfrasch]

surfrasch,

Where did you ground your circuit?

oh man can’t remember, but pretty sure I found a ground screw to tie into while I had all the plastic trim pieces off. Ground wasn’t as difficult as finding the correct 12v wire in the bundle, mine was hidden inside the middle of the bundle.

 

[Smaug523]

So I finished the install using the T Tap method and have noticed the V1 stays on after I walk away and the car locks. I ensured that I used the blue wire that powers the center console, so after further testing, I noticed that the center console was still powered after I walked away and the car was locked. Did they somehow switch the center console to constant power vice switched power? Anyone else have any experience with this?

 

[surfrasch]

That’s correct, power stays on for maybe 30 min or so, not sure as I haven’t timed it. This is a change that occurred with a software update back earlier this year. Your car is acting properly.

 

[Kbra]

surfrasch,

Where did you ground your circuit?

I used a bolt in same general area as the VC left power that goes into the body of the car.
Pics here How to Hard Wire Install a Radar Detector to the Tesla Model 3 | LivingTesla

 

[Smaug523]

Thanks guys.

This car definitely has a mind of its own. After conducting some experiments last night, I found that it would turn off after a designated time; although this time seems to vary (a couple times it was 10 minutes or so and when I returned home this morning, it took about 30 minutes). The outlier was when I went to the gym this morning for 1.5 hours. The unit remained on the entire time. The car was locked and my phone key and I were far enough away from the car where I feel like it should have turned off. But when I returned and opened the door, the V1 didn't go through its initial boot up sequence as it was already on.

The only thing I can think of (but don't know why there would be a connection) is that sentry mode is armed at the gym but not at home (as I have the "Exclude Home" box checked? I can't imagine why having Sentry mode armed would keep the center console powered, but maybe there is a reason for it. Has anyone else seen where the V1 will remain online for an extended duration while away from the car?