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12v wire tap for Radar Detector
- Thread starter surfrasch
- Start date
Howdy,
Didn't need the Mirror Tap. I called the guys at Blendmount, who are great, they said no problemo to send it back. Terrific customer service.
The Blendmount is sweet. OMG, I can't believe I never have to see a suction cup again.
PDA Road Gear did the install. Cost me $150.
They tapped into the 12v on the drivers side. Call them and ask, I'm sure they'll tell you how they did it.
It's La Bomba.
Super happy to have my V1 back. I think the V1 is the best. The only two speeding tickets I've had both came when;
1. I had the stereo up so loud I couldn't hear the V1
2. I didn't have a V1
The V1 has saved me sooo many times. I love it.
On the side note. The guys showed me the latest and greatest from K40. I'm most likely going to trade my M3 red brakes later in 019. When I do, and if I have F You money, I'm putting in the K40. It's a cut above.
Peace and love!
Didn't need the Mirror Tap. I called the guys at Blendmount, who are great, they said no problemo to send it back. Terrific customer service.
The Blendmount is sweet. OMG, I can't believe I never have to see a suction cup again.
PDA Road Gear did the install. Cost me $150.
They tapped into the 12v on the drivers side. Call them and ask, I'm sure they'll tell you how they did it.
It's La Bomba.
Super happy to have my V1 back. I think the V1 is the best. The only two speeding tickets I've had both came when;
1. I had the stereo up so loud I couldn't hear the V1
2. I didn't have a V1
The V1 has saved me sooo many times. I love it.
On the side note. The guys showed me the latest and greatest from K40. I'm most likely going to trade my M3 red brakes later in 019. When I do, and if I have F You money, I'm putting in the K40. It's a cut above.
Peace and love!
hey long time Tesla owner, (roadster, S, X...etc)
looking to mirror tap this...why can't you just connect it to the mirror dimmer here and use a mirror tap? Should take all of 15 mins...or is this constant 12v which would be weird for a mirror.
You can easily see that he gets access to the white and yellow wire after removing the first trim piece.
I did try to search the forum but wasn't clear if that was the constant 12v source that people where referring to.
I did this same trick on my Mclaren so am hoping this is the same.
looking to mirror tap this...why can't you just connect it to the mirror dimmer here and use a mirror tap? Should take all of 15 mins...or is this constant 12v which would be weird for a mirror.
You can easily see that he gets access to the white and yellow wire after removing the first trim piece.
I did try to search the forum but wasn't clear if that was the constant 12v source that people where referring to.
I did this same trick on my Mclaren so am hoping this is the same.
This is what I’m talking about. I did this on my two previous Model S’s with no issues. Has anyone actually tried this? I want to hook up my radar and dash cam using this method.
I’m sorry, before I tapped my R3 in I recall searching this forum for like a month, and could have sworn I found posts saying to stay away from the mirror source......can’t remember but thought it was because it wasn’t a switched 12V source wire? One of the experts needs to answer here. I think there were only three good spots to source from......directly from the 12V lighter plug in console, or tap directly into that source wire near drivers door or right behind the 12V lighter plug by removing the cup holders, or plug the detector wire into the mini plug up above drivers foot well (which I found impossible to reach).
I had almost given up and ready to hire a pro, but you see the pros can screw this one up also. I’ve tapped easily into every car I’ve owned, last TT took me like 5 min.....but before I gave up on this one I also posted on the Radar Detector forum, another great forum if you haven’t used it before.....those turkeys gave me such a rash of sh_t about this that I was determined to try one last time to prove I wasn’t a flipping idiot, and finally got it.
Good luck, this one isn’t a no brainer.
I had almost given up and ready to hire a pro, but you see the pros can screw this one up also. I’ve tapped easily into every car I’ve owned, last TT took me like 5 min.....but before I gave up on this one I also posted on the Radar Detector forum, another great forum if you haven’t used it before.....those turkeys gave me such a rash of sh_t about this that I was determined to try one last time to prove I wasn’t a flipping idiot, and finally got it.
Good luck, this one isn’t a no brainer.
hmmm ok. thats just a really weird accessory to have a constant 12v to it. Seem to be a source of vampire drain....maybe.
It's already too late as I ordered the mirror tap.
I should know pretty quickly when I get the car tomorrow and the parts later this week
It's already too late as I ordered the mirror tap.
I should know pretty quickly when I get the car tomorrow and the parts later this week
israndy
Supercharger Hunter
I had one of those Digital License Plates put on by the manufacturer during a beta period. The wire was originally tapped into a location suggested by a designer at Tesla above the passenger footwell:
But as promising as those lugs looked for constant power coming directly from the battery a few weeks later a software update turned them into switched power.
Sorry for the bad shot, you can't quite see where it's attached, I was trying to get a shot while he hadn't put everything back together, doesn't really matter anymore if you are looking for constant power.
The Digital Plate has a battery, and it will hold it's image even w/o power, but they wanted to be able to test in the recommended installation so we had to re-do it.
According to the installer, his contact at Tesla said there is no longer ANY accessible constant power inside the Model 3, it's all switched just below the battery itself. So he made a hole in the rubber of the firewall pass-thru just there, by pushing a white solid core wire thru next to a group that already passed that way:
The actual wire was stranded core red that he then threaded thru that hole and up to a fuse holder attached directly to the battery. It's like the terminals were made to attach more wires to:
-Randy
But as promising as those lugs looked for constant power coming directly from the battery a few weeks later a software update turned them into switched power.
Sorry for the bad shot, you can't quite see where it's attached, I was trying to get a shot while he hadn't put everything back together, doesn't really matter anymore if you are looking for constant power.
The Digital Plate has a battery, and it will hold it's image even w/o power, but they wanted to be able to test in the recommended installation so we had to re-do it.
According to the installer, his contact at Tesla said there is no longer ANY accessible constant power inside the Model 3, it's all switched just below the battery itself. So he made a hole in the rubber of the firewall pass-thru just there, by pushing a white solid core wire thru next to a group that already passed that way:
The actual wire was stranded core red that he then threaded thru that hole and up to a fuse holder attached directly to the battery. It's like the terminals were made to attach more wires to:
-Randy
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that's interesting, directly on the 12V battery, correct? I thought I've seen a bunch of posts where people attached there and then had battery failures or error messages, something like that?
For those asking, the mirror tap is constant on 12V. That is the go to spot in my opinion for dash cams.
For radar detectors, I used the driver footwell 12V switched power (the blue wire referred above). I used the Posi-Tap I linked before and it was super simple. Done it on my own 3 + someone else's.
My V1 + Blendmount combo is great. Only problem is that I sometimes don't turn up the V1 loud enough when I am blasting music!
@surfrasch I like how you installer put the wire through the piece he/she did, rather than out the front as I have it. May have to tweak my set up, thanks for the pics!
For radar detectors, I used the driver footwell 12V switched power (the blue wire referred above). I used the Posi-Tap I linked before and it was super simple. Done it on my own 3 + someone else's.
My V1 + Blendmount combo is great. Only problem is that I sometimes don't turn up the V1 loud enough when I am blasting music!
@surfrasch I like how you installer put the wire through the piece he/she did, rather than out the front as I have it. May have to tweak my set up, thanks for the pics!
for my install, I like to mount my detector lower in the windshield, not up at the mirror.....so the wire is just tucked between the dash trims and the front windshield. Easy to just push it into the crease where the trims come together.
ah, yeah I got a blendmount . looks super clean minus the wire I have right now coming down
Kbra
Member
For the blendmount or upper windshield mounts. The cable is simply pressed and wedged underneath the headlines and dude pillar pieces.ah, yeah I got a blendmount . looks super clean minus the wire I have right now coming down
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