EnrgyNDpndnce
Member
The HV battery is doing fine. Degraded a bit which is to be expected. Full charge gets me around 275-280 miles. I typically charge to 90% which will show ~ 250 miles.
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12volt Battery Replacement - NAPA Auto Parts
- Thread starter MDL3ForMe
- Start date
EnrgyNDpndnce
Member
Eh, I’ll try to remember to post the sw version tomorrow. Too tired and too lazy to get out of bed right now to check the phone app.
android04
Active Member
I don't think those tabs that look like vent ports are actually ports. They are most likely tabs to pry on with a flat blade screwdriver to open the top cover.
Here's one from O'Reilly Auto Parts that does have the vent port, but costs quite a bit more https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...inum-battery-group-size-51r/ssbq/51rplt?pos=0
This Optima from AutoZone has ports on both sides, but costs even more money https://www.autozone.com/batteries-...battery-d51r-group-size-51-450-cca/467602_0_0
Here's another from Advance Auto Parts https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...-51r-agm/11920918-P?searchTerm=group+size+51r
so we are over 4yrs (!) into Model 3 deliveries and we still have to worry that if something as crucial as a 12V battery goes out and bricks the car ... we need to resort to bandaid solutions and fork over $100+ to get a 3rd party battery because the correct OEM battery (which would also be replaced under warranty for free) isn't available? nice. Glad to see that FSD and AI robots get all the funding though and simple things like keeping parts in stock aren't.
if my 12V battery goes out - Tesla roadside service can tow it on their dime to the SC and I expect that something as simple as a 12V battery can be fixed that day...
if my 12V battery goes out - Tesla roadside service can tow it on their dime to the SC and I expect that something as simple as a 12V battery can be fixed that day...
glad to hear stories where the OEM battery does last as expected. 80k miles isn't bad at all for any 12V battery. I'll probably proactively replace mine around the 4yr mark and after the warranty ends. Currently less than 25k miles on it and car is garage parked/ plugged in with less temperature swings than outside so it should definitely last that long.
pikeman
Member
I know we have a premium car, but I will not spend that kind of money on a battery. It’s just too expensive, and not cost effective.
Valid opinion. I went with the Ohmmu and having run both Standard and Lithium, I notice much faster wake up times and wanted no battery maintenance for years not the unexpected 12 volt failures. With that said, the most recent versions of software are supposed to do more checks on the 12 volt lime over charge testing to check battery performance to give early warning of pending failures. But of course with all that even Tesla is now selling with standard Lion 12 volt battery.
iwannam3
Active Member
Only on refresh X and S and it is a 15.5 volt battery since Li and Pb cells do not have exactly the same voltage. Do not expect to slap in a Tesla "12" V Li battery in a car designed for 12 V lead acid. Any update to the Tesla BMS can result in Ohmuu batteries throwing error codes, it has happened twice so far.
Msjulie
Active Member
let's hope so. a 12V failure without warning is an awful customer experience (especially as you can't reliably jump it unlike ICE vehicle 12V batteries) and that tow to the service center with roadside assistance can't be cost effective for Tesla.
iwannam3
Active Member
According to this what? Probably will start in Berlin and Texas with new Ys before China and Fremont
EnrgyNDpndnce
Member
EnrgyNDpndnce
Member
Why can’t you reliably jump start a Model 3? I’ve read it’s fine to jump start a Tesla, just don’t use a Tesla to jump start another car. Never tried it mind you, just what I’ve read. Either way I do think the 12V issue is a bit overblown. If your 12V dies suddenly, just buy an aftermarket 12V that fits and replace it. Kinda like we’ve always done with ICE cars.
stopcrazypp
Well-Known Member
I haven't read any accounts of people not being able to jump a Tesla (presuming they know how to access the battery). In fact, it should be far easier given you don't need high current (unlike jumping an ICE). On the flip side, given the battery is tiny in the Tesla, it is not suitable for jump starting ICE cars.
As mentioned in other threads, if you are super paranoid about this, buy one of those small lithium ion jump starters and keep it in the frunk. Then hide a 12V A23 battery in the tow hook cover. When your 12V battery is dead, you can use that that to pop the frunk (frunk remains locked if 12V battery is still live), then use your jump starter to jump the car.
1) I've never had an ICE vehicle 12V battery go bad before 5+ yrs of age
2) by going bad I mean the cranking took a bit longer and I had weeks of notice to go to a store and replace
3) the warranty on the battery was expired and the replacement was cheap and I never go stranded
what we are hearing from Tesla owners are cases of the battery failing well under 4yrs of age (during the warranty period) and bricking the car so you need a tow to the SC. The aftermarket batteries aren't manufacturer spec either and I personally think Tesla should pay for a battery replacement during the warranty period.
Knightshade
Well-Known Member
Whereas the factory battery on my bought-brand-new Lexus died pretty reliably every 3.5-4 years in my 11 years of ownership....it was on #4 when it was traded in for my Tesla.
Died as in car that worked fine yesterday with no messages or warnings, then wouldn't start the next day without a jump (after which it went right to the dealer, because the battery warranty was always longer than it took to die so I kept using said warranty)
android04
Active Member
I have read about a few people that couldn't jump start their Teslas, but it seems to me that most likely that was due to one of two things:
1. They tried to jump start it from the wires behind the tow hook cover, not realizing that they don't lead directly to the 12v battery and they only serve to pop open the frunk.
2. They couldn't pop open the frunk with a jump starter to even get to the battery because they don't realize that most jump starters need to sense a small voltage on the two leads as part of the reverse polarity protection -- and the two wires behind the tow hook cover won't have any voltage on them because they don't connect to the 12v battery. In this case, they need to know how to put their jump starter in "bypass" or "boost mode" to disable the reverse polarity protection.
EnrgyNDpndnce
Member
Yeah but my point is the cars aren’t really “bricked.” In my case I went to O’Reilly, bought a battery, and installed it in about the same time it would have taken with an ICE. And as others have said, you can jump a Tesla using another car or one of those portable jump starters.
So I stand by my opinion that this issue is overblown.
android04
Active Member
I agree that I don't like peoples' use of the word "bricked" when they started using it to describe a Tesla with a dead battery. When I first heard people call it that 2.5 years ago I wondered if they actually knew what "bricked" meant. Granted, there might now be a more general and mainstream meaning for the word, but to me it has always meant a device that has become inoperable and cannot be recovered (or not recovered easily).
A bricked device could have become inoperable due to software change that causes it to stop responding via normal means. Fixing it could mean opening it up and finding contacts to connect to JTAG and flashing firmware to restore it. A bricked device could also have resulted from physical damage like breaking a component or shocking it. Physical damage to electronic devices is not always easy nor worth trying to fix, depending on many things.
But I wouldn't call (not have I heard anybody call) a TV remote control "bricked" because it's batteries don't work anymore. Same with a car's 12v socket not being "bricked" if all that is wrong is that the 15 Amp fuse blew because you connected a power inverter that drew too much energy. It's easy for anybody to replace remote control batteries or car accessory fuses. A "bricked" device requires higher level skills or understanding and more specialized equipment to fix, like a JTAG programmer or a reflow soldering station (and the knowledge to use them).
To me, replacing or jump starting the 12v battery in my Tesla is just as easy as any other car (and I've done it to many). But I understand that there are people out there who have never done that to any car and have no idea how to do it. I don't think there's anything wrong with that. I'm just saying that when people use the term "bricked" to describe their Tesla with a dead 12v battery, I wince inside. Doesn't stop me from trying to help or inform them of ways to fix the issue.
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