Perhaps it is just “temporarily“ bricked.I agree that I don't like peoples' use of the word "bricked" when they started using it to describe a Tesla with a dead battery. When I first heard people call it that 2.5 years ago I wondered if they actually knew what "bricked" meant. Granted, there might now be a more general and mainstream meaning for the word, but to me it has always meant a device that has become inoperable and cannot be recovered (or not recovered easily).
A bricked device could have become inoperable due to software change that causes it to stop responding via normal means. Fixing it could mean opening it up and finding contacts to connect to JTAG and flashing firmware to restore it. A bricked device could also have resulted from physical damage like breaking a component or shocking it. Physical damage to electronic devices is not always easy nor worth trying to fix, depending on many things.
But I wouldn't call (not have I heard anybody call) a TV remote control "bricked" because it's batteries don't work anymore. Same with a car's 12v socket not being "bricked" if all that is wrong is that the 15 Amp fuse blew because you connected a power inverter that drew too much energy. It's easy for anybody to replace remote control batteries or car accessory fuses. A "bricked" device requires higher level skills or understanding and more specialized equipment to fix, like a JTAG programmer or a reflow soldering station (and the knowledge to use them).
To me, replacing or jump starting the 12v battery in my Tesla is just as easy as any other car (and I've done it to many). But I understand that there are people out there who have never done that to any car and have no idea how to do it. I don't think there's anything wrong with that. I'm just saying that when people use the term "bricked" to describe their Tesla with a dead 12v battery, I wince inside. Doesn't stop me from trying to help or inform them of ways to fix the issue.
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12volt Battery Replacement - NAPA Auto Parts
- Thread starter MDL3ForMe
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android04
Active Member
Or perhaps as useful as a "brick" at that moment in time. But like I said, it's not the usage I'm used to from the tech and electronics world. Just wanted to point out that it bugs me when people call it that, but they can call it whatever they like. Maybe people should start calling it "doorknobbed", or "knobbed" for short, when their Tesla's 12v battery dies. That would be for "dead as a doorknob"
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stopcrazypp
Well-Known Member
On the flip side, I haven't seen people call a ICE car with a dead 12V battery "bricked", so it's just weird. Generally you don't call a device with a easily swappable battery "bricked" when the battery died.
I've read multiple reports with jumping the battery and all it does is boot the car screen up and then shuts down shortly after. too little to drive the vehicle to the nearest autoparts store or service center. on the other hand - jumping a 12V car battery in an ICE vehicle will reliably get you going unless you turn the engine back off.
Thanks to this forum, I learned to just add 12V battery to the 2 year service interval. If you plan it as regular maintenance, no issue waiting for the battery to come if in it's out of stock, and only $85+tax. Just put the new one in my Model 3, and it's so crazy easy and inexpensive, not sure why anyone would wait for it to fail.
stopcrazypp
Well-Known Member
The only cases where I read it's like that is when something else broke in the car (in which case it meets the definition of "bricked"). But this thread is talking solely about a dead 12V battery and nothing else wrong with the car.
EnrgyNDpndnce
Member
I’ve heard multiple reports of ICE cars with dead batteries that, despite the owner’s best efforts, cannot be jump started. Nothing is 100% effective all the time.
Msjulie
Active Member
Notice the 12v in red below. Berlin, Texas, whatever - Tesla creating a bespoke 12v for 3/Y
The 12v is Tesla launches new AMD chip and 12v Li-ion battery in 2022 Model 3 Model Y vehicles
android04
Active Member
I'm waiting for mine to fail precisely because it's so easy to jump start it or replace it with one available locally. Call me crazy if you want
I'm waiting for mine to fail precisely because it's so easy to jump start it or replace it with one available locally. Call me crazy if you want
Yeah, you're crazy. Not easy to jump start when you can't get in the trunk without having to put power through the wires in the bumper. And reports that even if you jump start it, it's not drivable as soon as you remove the jump starter. And nothing says I don't know how to take care of my car like walking through a parking lot with a set of jumper cables and puppy dog eyes.
android04
Active Member
I have an A23 battery behind the tow hook cover to pop open the frunk. I carry a lithium iron phosphate jump starter in my frunk that I can use to jump start my 12v battery with, and if all else fails I carry a small 10mm wrench along with the jump starter to replace the 12v battery. There are stores all around me that sell group size 51R batteries, including a few within walking distance from work.
By the way, when my 12v battery dies I plan on opening it up as safely as I can to learn more about it.
P.S. replacing a 12v battery is easy and I've done it many times before on other vehicles. I've even replaced alternators, thermostats, brake lines, starter motor solenoids, and a bunch of other stuff in parking lots. Replacing an alternator on a Nissan 350z was not clean or easy job to do in the parking lot because you have to lift the car to get under it where the alternator is installed, and you have to disconnect a radiator hose with coolant in it to be able to remove a long alternator bolt.
P.P.S. I've limped 2 vehicles to a parking lot with my lithium iron phosphate jump starter. Both had dead alternators and discharged 12v batteries.
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android04
Active Member
I don't know which one they installed, but when mine goes out I plan on getting this battery from O'Reilly's because it's made in the USA by East Penn Manufacturing Company https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...inum-battery-group-size-51r/ssbq/51rplt?pos=0
yikes... that's a $220 12V battery .... you could literally get 2x OEM batteries from Tesla and still be better off. I highly doubt this one will last 2x long.
android04
Active Member
The OEM battery is definitely a better value, but my nearest service center is 1.5 hours away. And I refuse to change out my 12v battery until it dies (I'm at 50 months and 78,000 miles). When it does die, I can pop open the frunk and jump start myself and drive (or even walk if I have to) the 4-5 blocks to the nearest O'Reilly Auto Parts. I'm willing to pay for convenience and for supporting American jobs and businesses.
Everyone will have to make up their own choice on the battery replacement they want.
iwannam3
Active Member
the new "12 volt" battery is really 15.5 volts. Hardware was changed to accomidate it along withthe BMS. According to the Model S owner’s manual, the new battery has a rating of 6.9 Ah and 15.5 volts.
EnrgyNDpndnce
Member
I wish I could remember, but I don’t and have since replaced that one with another OEM. I do remember it was an AGM battery that matched the OEM. it was $200 so much more expensive than the OEM, however the first battery died on a Sunday and best case was mobile service could replace it late Monday. Meanwhile I had a business meeting Monday morning so for the convenience it was worth the money. That O’Reilly battery lasted over 60k miles with zero issues. I recently replaced it while at Service Center for something else (replaced charge port door). The battery still worked fine, I decided to replace it proactively b/c my wife drives the Tesla now and I didn’t want it to die on her while I was out of town. Also, paying $120 for a new OEM after 60k miles is cheaper than $200 at O’Reilly after 80k miles.
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