20 inch Uberturbine wheels on Model Y + optional thicker 45 profile sidewall.

[DayTrippin]

Why stick with 21's when there are almost no tire choices? Not to mention there are a lot of 20" wheels if you still want curb rash magnets that weigh in the low 20 pound range. Don't just look at the link I sent on the Tsportline, go look at Martian wheels, Titan 7, etc. You can easily save 15 pounds per wheel! That is a massive unsprung weight savings.

It is obvious by your reply you don't understand the significance of unsprung mass and its effect on vehicle dynamics. People spend thousands of dollars just to shave a few pounds off unsprung weight as it is far more impactful to performance than weight in other areas of the car. There is no reason to stay with 21" wheels. You can go to 20's, 19's or 18's all based on your needs.

Watch the video about the improvement in performance going with the lighter weight wheels. To get that kind of improvement on an already quick car is a phenomenal gain in performance.

If you don't understand it, that is fine and you are likely the target demographic that Tesla had in mind when they threw on a bunch stuff with no real holistic view about performance.

Here is one of the simplest explanations I could find that would possibly serve as a primer for you.

Unsprung Weight VS Sprung Weight – Why Heavy Wheels are Bad News – eEuroparts

Unsprung weight is one of those terms used a lot in car tuning circles. Here's a rundown of what unsprung weight is and why it matters.

www.eeuroparts.com

 

[smithrukami]

Why stick with 21's when there are almost no tire choices? Not to mention there are a lot of 20" wheels if you still want curb rash magnets that weigh in the low 20 pound range. Don't just look at the link I sent on the Tsportline, go look at Martian wheels, Titan 7, etc. You can easily save 15 pounds per wheel! That is a massive unsprung weight savings.

It is obvious by your reply you don't understand the significance of unsprung mass and its effect on vehicle dynamics. People spend thousands of dollars just to shave a few pounds off unsprung weight as it is far more impactful to performance than weight in other areas of the car. There is no reason to stay with 21" wheels. You can go to 20's, 19's or 18's all based on your needs.

Watch the video about the improvement in performance going with the lighter weight wheels. To get that kind of improvement on an already quick car is a phenomenal gain in performance.

If you don't understand it, that is fine and you are likely the target demographic that Tesla had in mind when they threw on a bunch stuff with no real holistic view about performance.

Here is one of the simplest explanations I could find that would possibly serve as a primer for you.

Unsprung Weight VS Sprung Weight – Why Heavy Wheels are Bad News – eEuroparts

Unsprung weight is one of those terms used a lot in car tuning circles. Here's a rundown of what unsprung weight is and why it matters.

www.eeuroparts.com

So… I should’ve guessed you’d compare apples to oranges when criticizing Tesla wheel weight. Thanks for informing everyone that 21s are heavier than 19s. I suppose the 19’s corner better too? You’d be saving weight but in my rear view mirror on corners. Am I off topic or was performance germane to the discussion on performance wheels? Yup, I think we’re back to 3-7 lbs per wheel as I mentioned earlier.

 

[smithrukami]

But to save time for all the more “educated” readers here maybe you can simply document the wheels that perform better than the tesla wheels. Try to compare apples to apples. My fourth grader knows smaller wheels are generally lighter than larger wheels even though Tesla made that calculation when choosing wider wheels over narrower wheels. Please also confirm you don’t drive a lighter ICE vehicle like GT3 or some other wannabe Tesla beater that simply can’t.

 

[DayTrippin]

You can lead a horse to water .... You clearly are their target demographic for this car. If 3-7 pounds isn't significant to you, then no point in buying a performance model. The wheel/tire combo very significantly impacts the performance in all areas of this car.

Take a look at the Titan 7 web page. Scroll down the Tesla section. You'll see 20.7 and 22 pounds for a 20" wheel that works great on the MYP. You don't have to run a stupid staggered setup which has almost no benefit. You don't need to run 21" tires where there are almost no tire options. You are less likely to have pinch flats, curb your wheels, you can easily rotate your tires, etc. That 15 pounds you saved per wheel is massive in performance terms. Not even factoring in the reduce weight of the tire.

If you buy a MYP, and want it to perform the best you can, these boat anchor wheels should be the first to go. Based on what people sell them for here, you'll likely take a loss compared to what you'll spend to get something actually decent to put on the car. Lucky if you can sell the for $2500 and you'll probably have $4k in something decent. Obviously most aspects of the performance pack were designed by someone who had no clue about a lot of what they were doing but it sure looked nice on a webpage.

WHEEL WEIGHT CHART

T-R10 APPLICATIONS BMW E9X M3 Configuration Wheel Size Wheel Weight (lbs.) Front 18x9.5 18.7 Rear 18x10.5 19.5 BMW F87 M2 Configuration Wheel Size Wheel Weight (lbs.) Squared 18x9.5 18.7 CHEVROLET CORVETTE Z06 C7 Configuration Wheel Size Wheel Weight (lbs.) Front 19X10 21.4...

titan-7.com

TESLA	MODEL 3
Configuration	Wheel Size	Wheel Weight (lbs.)
FRONT	20X8.5	20.7
REAR	20X10	22

If you want to see a much better approach to a car look up this M3P build. Google "building the Teslarossa a max model 3 for the street" and look at the car Doug built. It will link you to another site for Teslas but this was a much better build than Tesla did on the M3P which is definitely better than the phone it in they did on the MYP.

 

[DayTrippin]

Rather than trying to edit the previous post, I'll add a separate one. There are a myriad of online performance calculators. You can plug in the numbers of the stock MYP and then what impact mods that affect its weight, power, tires sizes etc and see what the 0-60 times are.

Since there is no easy way to get any extra power out of the MYP, your best options to make it faster are reduce mass, if grip is an issue, better tires, suspension, etc.

So I took the base values for the MYP of weight and power and plugged it into one of the calculators. When you drop in the factory numbers it comes out to very close to what the car actually runs based on my testing. So I kept changing the HP values until I got the representative numbers from what the results were at 8:58 into the video. Based on the performance runs documented here, the weight savings impact on the 0-60 times is equivalent to about another 30 HP. So to accelerate the heavy boat anchor Ubers as fast as either the 18's or 19's in the test would take 480HP vs the 450HP it actually comes with.

You can buy 20" wheels that weigh only about 2 pounds more than the 18's as I've shown in my previous post. So why would I roll on the 21" Ubers in my "Performance" model when I am in effect handicapping it by about 30HP because of the ridiculous wheel choice? Tesla still has a ways to go to compete with the driving dynamics of other companies like BMW, Porsche, MB, etc. They may nave nailed a lot of the drivetrain and tech, but their suspension tuning and wheel choices have a long way to go. I love my MY LR so far and I hope some day they will truly make a worthy performance variant. For me the current iteration doesn't cut it other than the motor performance. Still can't believe they left out track mode as well. Just dropping the 20" Induction wheels on it would have been a huge improvement over the Ubers.

 

[smithrukami]

Rather than trying to edit the previous post, I'll add a separate one. There are a myriad of online performance calculators. You can plug in the numbers of the stock MYP and then what impact mods that affect its weight, power, tires sizes etc and see what the 0-60 times are.

Since there is no easy way to get any extra power out of the MYP, your best options to make it faster are reduce mass, if grip is an issue, better tires, suspension, etc.

So I took the base values for the MYP of weight and power and plugged it into one of the calculators. When you drop in the factory numbers it comes out to very close to what the car actually runs based on my testing. So I kept changing the HP values until I got the representative numbers from what the results were at 8:58 into the video. Based on the performance runs documented here, the weight savings impact on the 0-60 times is equivalent to about another 30 HP. So to accelerate the heavy boat anchor Ubers as fast as either the 18's or 19's in the test would take 480HP vs the 450HP it actually comes with.

You can buy 20" wheels that weigh only about 2 pounds more than the 18's as I've shown in my previous post. So why would I roll on the 21" Ubers in my "Performance" model when I am in effect handicapping it by about 30HP because of the ridiculous wheel choice? Tesla still has a ways to go to compete with the driving dynamics of other companies like BMW, Porsche, MB, etc. They may nave nailed a lot of the drivetrain and tech, but their suspension tuning and wheel choices have a long way to go. I love my MY LR so far and I hope some day they will truly make a worthy performance variant. For me the current iteration doesn't cut it other than the motor performance. Still can't believe they left out track mode as well. Just dropping the 20" Induction wheels on it would have been a huge improvement over the Ubers.

OK we are talking about a five seater SUV: let’s just get that straight first.

So if you want to compare other five seater SUVs to the Tesla model Y then be my guest.

I think most people buying a MYP like to accelerate but probably have a child seat in the back seat. Child seats weigh about 10-12 lbs so I think the 3-5 lbs per wheel advice is lost on most people buying an SUV.

I think the uberturbine wheels look dope but I agree they limit tire options and are expensive. But everyone already knew that so I’m still not sure what point you’re making. If you turn your MYP into a track car then at least you can seat 5-7 passengers.

 

[DayTrippin]

Look we are talking past each other. Often people who are into "performance" vehicles, are truly into the performance of the vehicles. The heavy wheels are like leaving money on the table from a performance perspective. Unsprung weight hurts everything, ride, handling, braking, acceleration, and almost any driving dynamic.

For a simple way of saying it, there is a multiplier effect so that unsprung weight is not the same as other weight when comes to its effect on acceleration. A few pounds per wheel may not be worth it for some. I'll try another example. You can save almost 80 pounds of weight by going with lighter wheels/tires on the MYP. The actually effect on the car would be more like you saved (just an example) about 4-5 times that. There are guestimates about how much the actually effect is from say 2 times multiplier to 10 times and everywhere in between. So let's just take 5 times.

If you use that ratio, that is like you just shaved 400 pounds off the weight of the car? Does that seem like a car seat or 50 to you? If you plug in the numbers to the calculators that seem to closely align with the real world, it looks like the impact is pretty close to saving roughly 400 pounds. Is that a significant amount of savings to you?

Or another way to state it, why handicap your "performance model" with an extra 400 pounds of necessary weight? Not to mention these wheels and tires have a big impact on range. So is there any way you could further hamper your peformance model? Tesla tied a metaphorical boat anchor to it with these wheels.

If the performance doesn't really matter, the MY LR is a better option then. After the initial launch it is about as quick as the MYP. If you want better than the MY LR, buy the MY LR and acceleration boost to it and it gets you pretty close the MYP and saves a bunch of money and has better range.

This isn't just about being a track car. The lighter wheels and tires improve every facet of performance. Your ride quality will be better. It will brake better. Handling will improve and as already shown, acceleration will too. I didn't buy my MY LR to be a track car. I just want a fun daily driver. For that it has been awesome.

Enjoy the MYP.

 

[smithrukami]

Look we are talking past each other. Often people who are into "performance" vehicles, are truly into the performance of the vehicles. The heavy wheels are like leaving money on the table from a performance perspective. Unsprung weight hurts everything, ride, handling, braking, acceleration, and almost any driving dynamic.

For a simple way of saying it, there is a multiplier effect so that unsprung weight is not the same as other weight when comes to its effect on acceleration. A few pounds per wheel may not be worth it for some. I'll try another example. You can save almost 80 pounds of weight by going with lighter wheels/tires on the MYP. The actually effect on the car would be more like you saved (just an example) about 4-5 times that. There are guestimates about how much the actually effect is from say 2 times multiplier to 10 times and everywhere in between. So let's just take 5 times.

If you use that ratio, that is like you just shaved 400 pounds off the weight of the car? Does that seem like a car seat or 50 to you? If you plug in the numbers to the calculators that seem to closely align with the real world, it looks like the impact is pretty close to saving roughly 400 pounds. Is that a significant amount of savings to you?

Or another way to state it, why handicap your "performance model" with an extra 400 pounds of necessary weight? Not to mention these wheels and tires have a big impact on range. So is there any way you could further hamper your peformance model? Tesla tied a metaphorical boat anchor to it with these wheels.

If the performance doesn't really matter, the MY LR is a better option then. After the initial launch it is about as quick as the MYP. If you want better than the MY LR, buy the MY LR and acceleration boost to it and it gets you pretty close the MYP and saves a bunch of money and has better range.

This isn't just about being a track car. The lighter wheels and tires improve every facet of performance. Your ride quality will be better. It will brake better. Handling will improve and as already shown, acceleration will too. I didn't buy my MY LR to be a track car. I just want a fun daily driver. For that it has been awesome.

Enjoy the MYP.

Look, the model Y performance does approximately 3.5 seconds 0 to 60. You brought up the heavy weight on the 21 inch wheels. Why don’t you just tell everybody which wheel you would use instead of the heavy 38 pound Tesla performance wheels. And tell us if you think they would corner better with those wheels. Then tell us if you think all of your multiplier effect will bring the 0 to 60 time down to 3.4.
I’m gonna say nobody would be able to notice any real weight difference going to 0 to 60 in that car.
I’m also gonna say bringing the wheel to a smaller 19 or 20 inch width is going to HURT you on the corners and therefore decrease your performance.

So I’m still wondering what your point is if you cannot produce any data with the resulting effects.
Like usually when I criticize one thing I offer the competing alternative that I would use instead. You seem to criticize the Tesla wheels because of their weight (of 3 to 7 pounds per wheel) and the only alternative you have offered is going more narrow which will SLOW the Tesla on the track cornering.

NOW nobody thinks reducing the wheel weight by 5lbs is going to change the 0 to 60 time. But you won’t even name the wheel that you would use so your entire point is rendered MOOT. Maybe in your next reply you will actually mention the name of the wheel that you used to beat Tesla in cornering and 0 to 60 times??

The people that change the 21 inch wheels on the Tesla are doing it to save money on tires or increase comfort- I don’t think anybody in all of the Tesla forum is changing the 21 inch wheel that Tesla put on the car to increase performance. I think I rest my case.

I bet you’ve never owned a Tesla

 

[DayTrippin]

I did produce data on the acceleration improvement. It was about .3 seconds improvement which is significant.

I pointed out tires that would save far more weight then you initially assumed. There are quite a few options. I can't do all your homework for you. I gave you a good start for wheels that save almost 10-15 pounds over the stock wheels for each wheel. If you don't think that will make a big difference, I don't know what to tell you. I showed you a video where they had Martian MW03 wheels and that change alone (with the appropriately sized tires), saved almost .3 seconds of the 0-60 time. I also listed the TItan 7 wheels that are in a 20" size in a previous post that are very lightweight. What more do you need? Wasn't that conclusive enough? It was clearly there in the video if you took the time to watch it. The results are pretty conclusive that the lighter weight wheels reduced times. Nothing to think about.

Maybe you have issues with videos so here is just a website with the info presented in a text format. This guy changed the wheels to improve performance and it is what I would have done if I went with the MYP. May still do that on my MY LR at some point.

Tesla Model Y wheels and its impact on 0-60 acceleration

With the Tesla Model Y just beginning first deliveries a few weeks ago, owners are getting their first tastes of how the new all-electric crossover performs. Brian Jenkins from YouTube channel i1Tesla took his experiments a few steps further and recorded the Model Y Performance 0-60 MPH...

www.teslarati.com

Obviously you have no grasp of physics as evidenced by your comment "I’m gonna say nobody would be able to notice any real weight difference going to 0 to 60 in that car." If you were talking about going from 11.3 seconds 0-60 to 11.0, then I might agree with you. But when you are talking about going from 3.7 to 3.4, that is a very significant difference.

I'll give you some homework, or others can chime in about this as well. Go drive the MYP and then drive the M3P back to back. The difference between those 2 cars is about .3-.4 seconds in the real world. Tell me then if you notice a significant difference in the acceleration between the two. If you can't tell the difference in acceleration when driving them back to back, then maybe a Chevy Bolt should be in your future.

I would dig a bit deeper if you think the only reason to change from the 21's is for ride comfort. If the 21's are so awesome, why didn't they go with them on the M3P? Bigger isn't always better and it sure looks like Tesla did it as a styling statement more than anything.

The only hard numbers I can find for lateral acceleration tested by the same group (car and driver) shows the MYP at .94g vs the MY LR at .88g. I would bet, based on my past experience with other cars it is because the MYP is running high performance summer rubber compared to the mud and snow rated tires on the LR.

As for ownership here is a screenshot from my Stats app.

 

[smithrukami]

I did produce data on the acceleration improvement. It was about .3 seconds improvement which is significant.

I pointed out tires that would save far more weight then you initially assumed. There are quite a few options. I can't do all your homework for you. I gave you a good start for wheels that save almost 10-15 pounds over the stock wheels for each wheel. If you don't think that will make a big difference, I don't know what to tell you. I showed you a video where they had Martian MW03 wheels and that change alone (with the appropriately sized tires), saved almost .3 seconds of the 0-60 time. I also listed the TItan 7 wheels that are in a 20" size in a previous post that are very lightweight. What more do you need? Wasn't that conclusive enough? It was clearly there in the video if you took the time to watch it. The results are pretty conclusive that the lighter weight wheels reduced times. Nothing to think about.

Maybe you have issues with videos so here is just a website with the info presented in a text format. This guy changed the wheels to improve performance and it is what I would have done if I went with the MYP. May still do that on my MY LR at some point.

Tesla Model Y wheels and its impact on 0-60 acceleration

With the Tesla Model Y just beginning first deliveries a few weeks ago, owners are getting their first tastes of how the new all-electric crossover performs. Brian Jenkins from YouTube channel i1Tesla took his experiments a few steps further and recorded the Model Y Performance 0-60 MPH...

www.teslarati.com

Obviously you have no grasp of physics as evidenced by your comment "I’m gonna say nobody would be able to notice any real weight difference going to 0 to 60 in that car." If you were talking about going from 11.3 seconds 0-60 to 11.0, then I might agree with you. But when you are talking about going from 3.7 to 3.4, that is a very significant difference.

I'll give you some homework, or others can chime in about this as well. Go drive the MYP and then drive the M3P back to back. The difference between those 2 cars is about .3-.4 seconds in the real world. Tell me then if you notice a significant difference in the acceleration between the two. If you can't tell the difference in acceleration when driving them back to back, then maybe a Chevy Bolt should be in your future.

I would dig a bit deeper if you think the only reason to change from the 21's is for ride comfort. If the 21's are so awesome, why didn't they go with them on the M3P? Bigger isn't always better and it sure looks like Tesla did it as a styling statement more than anything.

The only hard numbers I can find for lateral acceleration tested by the same group (car and driver) shows the MYP at .94g vs the MY LR at .88g. I would bet, based on my past experience with other cars it is because the MYP is running high performance summer rubber compared to the mud and snow rated tires on the LR.

As for ownership here is a screenshot from my Stats app.

Ok lots of work on your behalf. Thanks.
so in summary which wheels would you put on a MYP? Like specifically which brand wheel and which size wheel? That is the real question.

 

[DayTrippin]

Depends on looks as beauty is in the eye of the beholder. I am an engineer and I place performance usually as my priority as long as something isn't fugly. You just need to decide if you want 18's (lightest and best for acceleration), 19's or 20's. I am more concerned about acceleration so I personally would go with the 18's (Martian MW03 or Titan 7) or some good options in 19" and then lower my car a bit to make them look right if needed. Martian and Titan also make taller one too if you like the look of them. Signature has some nice wheels as well. It comes down to weight and style for me.

I guess the other thing to think about is the budget as well. The Martians are a bargain for a fully forged wheel. A good wheel is going to set you back at least $500 or so and more. I can't see over buying or going so light if it compromises strength. The trade-off for all these wheels I have recommended are they aren't as aerodynamic as some of the factory options are. So you mileage may suffer a bit on the highway but the lighter weight will reduce energy consumption when accelerating. I saw a nice copy of the 20" Induction styled that are supposedly very light but I haven't been able to track down the company yet.

I'll see if I can find it as I am interested in them as well but I lean more toward the 18's or 19's for size and toward the Martians.

 

[RGE Kevin]

Ok lots of work on your behalf. Thanks.
so in summary which wheels would you put on a MYP? Like specifically which brand wheel and which size wheel? That is the real question.

Friend you're coming off as real aggressive in this thread. Weight on the wheels/tires does not equal weight on the car. I can't lose 10 pounds of fat on my body and claim 2.5 pounds of unsprung weight loss to each wheel, that's not how cars or physics work. I am buying a MYP (with a child seat in the back btw!) and am planning on swapping almost immediately to lower weight wheels (probably 20's as they still look great and are a good compromise on weight) and Michelin PS 4S.

What we're saying is that it doesn't really matter specifically which wheel. ANY forged wheel is going to come in lighter, so yeah, having wheels with weight removed at the wheel rather than on the body of a car is a huge difference in performance terms.

Also I've driven many Teslas and ICE performance cars. I love the MYP, but it was a dumb decision to put such heavy wheels on a performance oriented car which is why you see them for sale all over the place.

A car can be good without the company getting everything right.

 

[smithrukami]

Depends on looks as beauty is in the eye of the beholder. I am an engineer and I place performance usually as my priority as long as something isn't fugly. You just need to decide if you want 18's (lightest and best for acceleration), 19's or 20's. I am more concerned about acceleration so I personally would go with the 18's (Martian MW03 or Titan 7) or some good options in 19" and then lower my car a bit to make them look right if needed. Martian and Titan also make taller one too if you like the look of them. Signature has some nice wheels as well. It comes down to weight and style for me.

I guess the other thing to think about is the budget as well. The Martians are a bargain for a fully forged wheel. A good wheel is going to set you back at least $500 or so and more. I can't see over buying or going so light if it compromises strength. The trade-off for all these wheels I have recommended are they aren't as aerodynamic as some of the factory options are. So you mileage may suffer a bit on the highway but the lighter weight will reduce energy consumption when accelerating. I saw a nice copy of the 20" Induction styled that are supposedly very light but I haven't been able to track down the company yet.

I'll see if I can find it as I am interested in them as well but I lean more toward the 18's or 19's for size and toward the Martians.

OEM rims always look best. Sure people want to change but at some point it won’t resale well. Best option is square 21s to 255/35/21 instead of stagger. That way you can rotate. I’ve seen after market rims. They’re all ugly. But as you say beauty in eyes of beholder and I prefer stock in cars. It’s an SUV not a race car.

 

[DayTrippin]

There is an interesting video on youtube, running the exact same tires, on the same car and only changing rim diameters and nothing else. It was a Golf GTI, the tested 17, 18 and 19" tires. It was done in conjunction with one of the major tire companies and done on a test track in France I believe. The overall winner was not the 19's but the 18's. In the rain, the 17's had the best feel and the best times.

An interesting read/watch if you have an open mind.

The website with the info.

The differences between 17, 18 and 19 inch tyres - Tyre reviews and ratings

Is a 17

www.tyrereviews.com

 

[smithrukami]

Hi Folks,

New to this forum, but I thought I'd join and post this because I don't see much information related to the fitment of the 20 inch Uberturbine wheels on the Model Y LR AWD.

1) Wheels:
The M3P uberturbine wheels have a square fitment with all wheels 20x9, ET34. These were taken from the Model 3 Performance and put on my MY! NOTE: THESE ARE NOT THE 21" MODEL Y STAGGERED UBERTURBINE'S.

I had the 19" Gemini wheels before this and was debating whether I should add the $2000 induction wheel option from the factory. Honestly, I love the look and color of these uberturbine's even more than the 20" inductions.

See below picture of my MY LR AWD. This should also fit the MYP.

View attachment 661624


2)Tires:
Note: This 9" wheel would have also perfectly fit the 255/40R20 which come with the induction tires. 245 or 255 wide tires are designed for 9" wheels.

However, I opted to go for the Michelin CrossClimate 2 in 245/45R20. Note: The thicker sidewall impacts the circumference of the tire slightly, so when the speedo reads 60 mph, I'm actually going 61.4 mph. Its something I have to keep in mind but its ~2% so its not a big deal for me.

I also decided to stick with the thicker sidewall because its SIGNIFICANTLY more comfortable to me. Honestly, this feels quieter and more comfortable than my 19" Gemini wheels with the continental tires -Perhaps its because the CrossClimate2's are a better tire? I'll update how my range is impacted after a thousand miles or so. Zero rubbing or clearance issues at full wheel lock and over large bumps on stock suspension.

Here's how the stock Gemini's compare with the new tire and rim combo: Rim & Tire Size Calculator. Custom Offsets

View attachment 661629


3) Offset:
I really like the stance of these new rims. It sticks out about 8mm more and looks flush with the fender. So much nicer.

"Wheel fills out the wheel well by extra 8 mm. Acceptable for most cars"
"The tire will stick out 6 mm farther. Rim will stick out 5 mm farther. Acceptable for most cars"

4) Alignment
This is a minor increase in height - about 4mm (0.15inch). I don't think I need to re-do my alignment but someone chime in if I'm mistaken.

Summary or TLDR:
I think the M3P 20" Uberturbine wheel is an excellent alternative to the 20" induction wheel for the Model Y.
Now I have my Gemini wheels sitting in my garage - up for sale if there's interest (dm me) or I might get it powdered coated in black and re-sell.

Hope this helps out someone!

I’m ordering MYP and want to go this option. Do you know if 21 in Uberturbine (center caps) will fit the 20 in Uberturbine wheels? You mounted them without use of spacers or any extra hardware? Thank you!

 

[smithrukami]

I wanted to chime in now that I have over 1000 miles on the wheel and tire set.

Overall I’m very happy I went this route but there are a few things to be aware about.

1) Efficiency : Wh/mi went up from 270 to 295. I do mostly highway driving. So a 9% decrease in range. This is due to both the wheel aerodynamics and the tire rolling resistance. (Inflated to 46 psi.)
2) Noise Vibration and Harshness : Observed improvements in all these categories. I feel that the frequency of the harsher smaller bumps have been reduced significantly.
3) Cornering : There is a more spongy feel when cornering hard. Makes sense and the sidewall is softer. It’s definitely noticeable for the avid enthusiast.
4) Appearance : I’m a lot happier with the way these tires and wheels look together. A more.. rugged look with the Cross Climate 2s. Thicker profile tires retains the same sidewall as the Gemini wheels and tires also helped me reduce curb rash.

I just mounted 20in Uberturbine from M3P. The stock tires are 235/35/20 so I’m going to switch them next week. The tires now are really fast and corner well… but too much road feel for my driving.

Is there any real difference in mounting 245/45/20 vs 255/45/20? I also want the 45 profile but not sure if 245 vs 255 matters on the LRY? I think the 255 look a hair better if wider. Thoughts?

 

[N1L CO2]

I just mounted 20in Uberturbine from M3P. The stock tires are 235/35/20 so I’m going to switch them next week. The tires now are really fast and corner well… but too much road feel for my driving.

Is there any real difference in mounting 245/45/20 vs 255/45/20? I also want the 45 profile but not sure if 245 vs 255 matters on the LRY? I think the 255 look a hair better if wider. Thoughts?

Here's how you calculate the difference between the 245/45 vs 255/45. The first number is the width of the tire in millimeters 245mm is approx. 9-9.5 in. in width. the 45 number is the aspect ratio (45%) for the side wall. You get the height of the sidewall by multiplying 0.45 to the first number. So, 245 x 0.45 = 110.25 or 110.25mm which is 4.3 inches. Thus and therefore, the 255 would yield an additional half inch in tread width and about a 114.75mm or 4.5in height on the sidewall. Difference of 4.5mm or 1/4 inch is barely noticeable so I think you are good to go.

I personally am running 265/40s (255/40 is stock) on mine but that's because I have a 9.5 inch wide wheels vs. the stock M3Ps 9 in.

 

[MFTMFW]

Hi everyone! I am looking at ordering a 20 inch set of wheels for MYP. Will I be able to run 245/45r20 tires in front and 275/40r20 tires in back?
Front wheels are 8.5-inch and rear are 9.5-inch. Or would it be better to run 245/40r20 in the front? Would either be okay for the front without rubbing/issues? Thanks for the help!

 

[smithrukami]

I’m on 245/45 but have not observed any rubbing with full lock. With 255/50, the speedometer is going to be very far off (60mph = 64.3mph which is ~7%) and the torque to the wheels will be impacted. I’d use the wheel calculator link I sent in the original post to play around and see how far off the circumference will be.

I tried 245/45/20 and took them off after one day. The car bounces too much and lost road feel. Especially with acceleration boost option the LRY wants to run fast and hard. I now put 255/40/20 Pilot Sport 4S on and it’s like a new car with instant torque and unreal grip.

 

[smithrukami]

I’ve in the past gone to all season tires with higher profile but IMO the LRY really provides the joy to drive so invest in tires to allow that.