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2010 Roadster Sport 2.0 vs 2011 non sport Advice

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So I'm trying to decide between a 2010 2.0 Roadster Sport fully loaded with CF exterior and upgraded interior, 2 extra sets of silver forged wheels, 14,000 miles and a 2011 Roadster non sport with 5,000 miles, adjustable suspension and double DIN Nav/Rear Camera. Any opinions???


I am a 2.5 sport owner. That said, I would take the 2.5 non-sport. Better audio system, better noise insulation, and lower miles (and it has the adjustable suspension option). Sure you give up 2 extra sets of forged wheels, but my forged wheels still look fine after 2 years. I don't think you will miss the 0.2 second acceleration—and if you care about your battery life, you aren't going to drive it in the Performance setting anyway, which is where you need to be to get to 3.7 seconds. You aren't going to burn rubber most of the time in the non-performance setting for the same reason, so I don't think you will miss it there either.
 
I was told by Tesla early on that there is no effect on battery health or life to driving Roadster in performance rather than standard mode. Most of my weekend driving in the Roadster is while in performance mode. Am still charging to 185 after 27K miles, so battery is doing fine. No smoking tires either.
 
I was told by Tesla early on that there is no effect on battery health or life to driving Roadster in performance rather than standard mode. Most of my weekend driving in the Roadster is while in performance mode. Am still charging to 185 after 27K miles, so battery is doing fine. No smoking tires either.

Interesting, my rep advised me not to use it too often since the current draw puts a heavier load on the battery, and it lets the battery run hotter. I still use Performance on weekends, but try not to punch it too hard when the SOC is below 40%.
 
Performance

Interesting, my rep advised me not to use it too often since the current draw puts a heavier load on the battery, and it lets the battery run hotter. I still use Performance on weekends, but try not to punch it too hard when the SOC is below 40%.

My rep said that Performance would age battery faster due to running it at a higher temperature. I have 190-192 standard miles on a charge after 24,500 miles, so maybe the hit is small.
 
Interesting, my rep advised me not to use it too often since the current draw puts a heavier load on the battery, and it lets the battery run hotter. I still use Performance on weekends, but try not to punch it too hard when the SOC is below 40%.

There was a good writeup Scott did comparing "Performance" mode (not to be confused with performance charging) of the 1.5 vs. the 2.x (Comparing Sport and Base [Archive] - Tesla Motors Club - Enthusiasts & Owners Forum) and it appeared he found that putting a 1.5 into performance mode did nothing vs. std. mode, however that putting a 2.x in performance mode did improve the quickness and acceleration. He mentioned that the std. mode of the 1.5 basically matched that of the performance mode of the 2.x and always drove his 2.x in performance mode for daily driving. When I had the 2.0 Roadster loaner I always drove it in Perf. mode to help match the initial torque/launch of my 1.5 and didn't see any rise in battery temps from my daily use.

As for stressing the pack, its a big pack and as long as you're above 50-60% SOC the pack will be fine. However I'm I would not doubt if Tesla allowed the ESS temps to rise higher while driving in Perf mode since keeping the temps high on the pack would allow more punch from the pedal. So if you're in a hot climate/day and sprinting around I'd look at the battery temps if you're concerned.
 
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I've heard driving the non-Sport in Performance mode is a lot like the Sport in standard mode.

Personally I'd still go for the 2.5 non-Sport to get a newer car with the updated bumpers and double DIN. You can add an extended warranty to the 2.5, but the bumper and double DIN upgrades are no longer available for a 2.0.

I was close to pulling the trigger on the bumper upgrade but decided to get the adjustable suspension instead. It was the right decision - improving the driving experience is worth more to me than changing the aesthetics - but I'm still slightly annoyed the bumper upgrade is gone, I might have come back to it next year.
 
I am with the majority. 2.5 non-sport. I bought a 2.0 sport and had it upgraded in almost every way to become a 2.25. I still have the 2.0 wheels though. I absolutely appreciate the double din, and especially the bumpers, and REALLY especially the front bumper. but those are personal choices.

I also recently bought a 2.5 sport CPO (for my wife), and it is wonderful.

I've driven a 1.5 and the car was still a rocket - such that only someone who has driven a sport and a non-sport would notice the difference. But it is a less refined drive. They just got better at the little things, like noise deadening, over time. Even within the 2.0s the later ones are quieter. My 2.0 had a nasty wind noise when I first got it and it took some serious work to quiet the car down.

Totally OT, but the glass top really helps quiet the car. My mesh top is great for many things, but it is really loud.

But as many have said, the warranty is relevant, and the mileage is also very relevant (though if the cars are each charging well then I wouldn't stress to much about it).

I'm in the same boat as one of the earlier posters - I don't plan to sell my car for a very, very long time, so I'm not really concerned about putting mileage on it. I enjoy driving it too much to not indulge.

In the end, it is a nice choice to have. BTW, I would also be strongly influenced by colors and options. Some colors suit me more than others.

And finally, no test drive doesn't sound very appealing to me.

Good luck and enjoy!
 
Totally OT, but the glass top really helps quiet the car. My mesh top is great for many things, but it is really loud.

I just put my glass top back on for the winter and have to say it actually amplified the noise in the car compared to the soft top. The soft top deadens / absorbs the noise, same with the stock hard top moreso than the glass... felt lining. But the glass top amplifies the speakers and bass response. I'm with you IPdamages, I like no top, followed my mesh top, then glass top. The soft top and stock hard top makes me feel like I'm in a cave and missing out in life.

I never liked the 2.5 nose, it has a sucker fish look to me when looking straight on. I do like the sides that I'm not sure are functional to direct air to the front brake rotors to help cool them. I am however very favorable of the rear 2.5 diffuser. Would love to play in photoshop to put a 1.5 front and a 2.5 rear diffuser on to see how it looks. Also redesigning the 1.5 front with the brake cooling vents might be a fun look. Someone could make a better looking front & back screen/mesh of the 1.5 that's something more pleasing rather than looking and acting like wild looking leaf catcher.

As for the 1.5/2.x I don't think I'd ever upgrade. I love the 1.5 interior, the large simple dash tray and the instant torque off the line. I'm looking to pull the stock seats out, place in storage and preserve, then put some racing seats (possibly microfiber) in that are functional to keep me locked in on turns as well as for comfort. The 1.5's offer no support when pushing the Roadster through hard turns but I don't want to raise my height but would rather lower it. The 2.x's raise your height and that just felt odd to me, but of course I'm 6' tall so someone shorter may find that more favorable.

As for noise, its a convertible. So what do you expect? I'm more in for the acceleration and fun... All the talking with your passenger is to be done before and after the drive and really they should be keeping quiet and holding on :) I can do a duramat... but I'm not turned off by the noise and rather invest my time elsewhere. I actually can't believe people really want to quiet it down. Its like quieting down a Jeep, I mean a real Jeep, why would you want to buy a Jeep... not for it being quiet, but rather to go wheeling and rock crawling if you built it right! I also just didn't see it all that big of a difference in the 2.0 I drove vs. my 1.5... possibly they got the Roadster to be whisper quiet later on? A good test would be to put the glass top on a 1.5 and a 2.5, take it for a drive with a db meter and that would be a true metric on the noise level. Same if someone duramats the car. Take a reading before/after and see how much of a difference it makes.

I know IPdamages has some good insight since he has a 2.0/2.5 so that's some really good feedback he provided. Jealous of your colorful garage that's for sure!
 
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Thanks guys. This thread was actually very helpful. I'm selling a 2.5 Sport, I was told by a friend that anyone who approached me with possible intent to purchase would know more about the car than I did, and this thread confirms the wisdom of his advice. Having owned "only" the Sport, I lack the basis for comparison - particularly on the specifics - that I was able to glean from this thread. So, good luck with your purchase, and may your Roadster - whichever one you choose - bring you much pleasure. Suzie

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And last question to those who are clearly more knowledgeable than I am about realistic Roadster pricing ... give me some suggestions on what I should be asking for a pristine car, new battery, 2.5 Sport? I have a quote from Shift for $65K - I think that's low. But I'd like to get the car sold within a reasonable period of time, and the wrong price will clearly not help to facilitate that outcome. Help me out here - a range would be good?
 
Thanks guys. This thread was actually very helpful. I'm selling a 2.5 Sport, I was told by a friend that anyone who approached me with possible intent to purchase would know more about the car than I did, and this thread confirms the wisdom of his advice. Having owned "only" the Sport, I lack the basis for comparison - particularly on the specifics - that I was able to glean from this thread. So, good luck with your purchase, and may your Roadster - whichever one you choose - bring you much pleasure. Suzie

- - - Updated - - -

And last question to those who are clearly more knowledgeable than I am about realistic Roadster pricing ... give me some suggestions on what I should be asking for a pristine car, new battery, 2.5 Sport? I have a quote from Shift for $65K - I think that's low. But I'd like to get the car sold within a reasonable period of time, and the wrong price will clearly not help to facilitate that outcome. Help me out here - a range would be good?

One yard stick - I purchased a 2.5 sport with ~12k miles and 2 years on the original warranty in Feb 2013 for $80k (the car was an early 2.5 sport used by Tesla for test drives, then sold new with ~8k miles in Feb 2012ish). That was very close to the bottom of the market (that winter and spring, maybe into that summer seemed to be when there was a glut of Roadsters for sale). I felt then, and feel now, that I got an excellent deal. Were I interested in selling today, I don't know if I could get all $80k back, but I don't think the car has gone down much from there.

I figure at $65k, they're figuring they can flip the car almost instantly at $75k and make some decent money for little effort. That's what my 2-2.5 year old knowledge of the used Roadster market tells me (based on the limited information about your Roadster).
 
Thanks guys. This thread was actually very helpful. I'm selling a 2.5 Sport, I was told by a friend that anyone who approached me with possible intent to purchase would know more about the car than I did, and this thread confirms the wisdom of his advice. Having owned "only" the Sport, I lack the basis for comparison - particularly on the specifics - that I was able to glean from this thread. So, good luck with your purchase, and may your Roadster - whichever one you choose - bring you much pleasure. Suzie

- - - Updated - - -

And last question to those who are clearly more knowledgeable than I am about realistic Roadster pricing ... give me some suggestions on what I should be asking for a pristine car, new battery, 2.5 Sport? I have a quote from Shift for $65K - I think that's low. But I'd like to get the car sold within a reasonable period of time, and the wrong price will clearly not help to facilitate that outcome. Help me out here - a range would be good?

How many miles?