The original lug nuts in 2012 did not have covers and the top end was a plastic material that warped when torqued. Most folks have probably had them exchanged it by now for the newer traditional ones with a lug nut cover.
Folks in California will tell you that the trunk is very easily accessed by thieves. Based on what the criminals are doing here, the frunk is a good place to hide stuff
There’s a signature red model s for sale in Colorado with only 11.5k miles! I’m so tempted to buy it!
I wish Tesla had a battery replacement cost available, would give me more peace of mind knowing what it would cost in case of battery failure.
Hmm, I still don’t have a clue. The article is from 2013 and it says an 85 pack was 44k+ with trade in value for the 60 pack it was brought down considerably. But who knows how much they are now and how much credit you’d get for the 8 year old pack.@AMPd This may give you a clue:
Life With Tesla Model S: Battery Upgrade From 60 kWh To 85 kWh
Yes you can. There is a removable section of the nose cone to the left "drivers side" of the "T" emblem on the nose cone. It can be popped out and snaps back in easily to allow access.
I think the parking brake solenoid is sticking - not disengaging completely. Out of driving 6k miles in two months, I had this happen about a dozen times. I was about to remove the wheel and check it out myself when I found out the lug nuts are weird as well. So, I bought a replacement set that came in today.
So far, these are the unique differences found in 2012 MS:
12v jump port
12v battery location
charge port w/o manual release
?? any more I should know about?
That pic is def. the Gen 2 nosecone. I believe there is even a service bulletin about how to replace the Sig version with the newer nose cones if ever needed replacing (due to accident, etc). Sounds like I need to keep a plastic pry tool in the glove box if I ever need to remove it ... oh wait .. I can't get to the box if there is no power, lol.
But if the 12v is what is keeping the contactors engaged, won't removing the jumper then lower the small battery back down below 12v which then disengages the HV contactors? It's my understanding that the 12v is what runs the electrics on the car (minus drive units, of course) while the HV batt simply keeps it topped off. Let me know if I have that wrong so I don't unintentionally spread false info.