2013 Model S Error Codes

[ShortDriverr]

Hi everybody,

So my girlfriend’s 2013 Model S (82k miles) has not had working AC since she has had it. So she decided to get into the DC DC converter and replace the fuse that powers the AC Compressor. Well the fuse was definitively dead, so at least she had a reason to get in there. But now she is getting the following error codes:

Does anybody here have any ideas as to what might be making these error codes populate? I’m thinking she didn’t connect one of the harnesses/connectors back to her DC DC converter correctly/properly, but maybe you guys can be more insightful.

Please ask me if you need any additional information. I own a Miata so I’m not sure what information you guys would need.

Thanks in advance.

 

[ucmndd]

Do you hear the HV contactors close when the car wakes up?

I’d start with basic 12v system troubleshooting. Are you sure the 12v is healthy?

 

[NewbyMaybe]

Did you disconnect the 12v battery and fireman's loop and then reconnect them?

 

[KalJoMoS]

According to the error codes it seems there is still something not right at the DC-DC converter and as noted 12V battery might be low at charge or not OEM type. I would ask the mechanic to open the converter again and make sure all the HV connection are good.

 

[ShortDriverr]

Do you hear the HV contactors close when the car wakes up?

I’d start with basic 12v system troubleshooting. Are you sure the 12v is healthy?

Using a multimeter, the battery reads 12v and we didn’t have any issues with it prior.

 

[ShortDriverr]

According to the error codes it seems there is still something not right at the DC-DC converter and as noted 12V battery might be low at charge or not OEM type. I would ask the mechanic to open the converter again and make sure all the HV connection are good.

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Would it actually be in the DC DC converter or the wiring harnesses connected to it that I should be looking at? We noticed this morning that one of the harnesses wasn’t plugged in flush, but are also having a difficult time getting it to plug in because the gasket on it keeps pushing it back out. The harness leading to a connector labeled “Signal”.

 

[ShortDriverr]

According to the error codes it seems there is still something not right at the DC-DC converter and as noted 12V battery might be low at charge or not OEM type. I would ask the mechanic to open the converter again and make sure all the HV connection are good.

View attachment 932876
View attachment 932877
View attachment 932878

According to the error codes it seems there is still something not right at the DC-DC converter and as noted 12V battery might be low at charge or not OEM type. I would ask the mechanic to open the converter again and make sure all the HV connectio

According to the error codes it seems there is still something not right at the DC-DC converter and as noted 12V battery might be low at charge or not OEM type. I would ask the mechanic to open the converter again and make sure all the HV connection are good.

View attachment 932876
View attachment 932877
View attachment 932878

Looks like it could also be the LV and Ground terminals at the DC DC converter?

 

[ucmndd]

Using a multimeter, the battery reads 12v and we didn’t have any issues with it prior.

That’s not any sort of guarantee. A fully charged and healthy lead acid battery should actually read closer to 14 volts. How long was the car torn apart (i.e. how long was the battery disconnected)?

These cars do all sorts of weird things when the 12v system is weak. Rule out the simple stuff first.

The question stands about the contactors.

 

[ShortDriverr]

That’s not any sort of guarantee. A fully charged and healthy lead acid battery should actually read closer to 14 volts. How long was the car torn apart (i.e. how long was the battery disconnected)?

These cars do all sorts of weird things when the 12v system is weak. Rule out the simple stuff first.

The question stands about the contactors.

We have it on a battery charger right now. Total the battery was disconnected for about 6-8 hours yesterday as they worked on it. As of this morning the battery read at 12.9V and we are gonna charge it to 14v, but we doubt this will change anything.

Also when starting the car up we hear HV connectors click a few times. What type of noise should it be making?

 

[Gumball]

Start with replacing the 12 volt, do yourself the favor, rule out the simple (and cheap) stuff first.
Contactors should close with one big click sound.

 

[MSJack]

According to the error codes it seems there is still something not right at the DC-DC converter and as noted 12V battery might be low at charge or not OEM type. I would ask the mechanic to open the converter again and make sure all the HV connection are good.

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How do you have accsess to all those error codes?

 

[KalJoMoS]

There was working web page back in spring containing a list of service codes but unfortunately it’s no longer available or I have not found substitute one.

 

[MSJack]

There was working web page back in spring containing a list of service codes but unfortunately it’s no longer available or I have not found substitute one.

Was it a Tesla source?

 

[KalJoMoS]

No, not Tesla source.