2013 Model S started throwing multiple errors

[brantse]

The other day, my 2013 Model S began displaying a number of errors and typically disables traction control, sometimes doesn't allow regen and even once had no power steering. I've checked both grounding bolts in the frunk and they are solid, without any signs of issues. The 12v battery hasn't been replaced since 2015, and it's currently reading 12.5 v.

Here's a picture of the current alerts it's displaying. Anyone have any suggestions?

 

[zoomer0056]

Easy to change the 12v battery. Eight years is along time for a lead acid battery. It may have the volts but maybe not the current.

 

[Gtech]

The other day, my 2013 Model S began displaying a number of errors and typically disables traction control, sometimes doesn't allow regen and even once had no power steering. I've checked both grounding bolts in the frunk and they are solid, without any signs of issues. The 12v battery hasn't been replaced since 2015, and it's currently reading 12.5 v.

Here's a picture of the current alerts it's displaying. Anyone have any suggestions?

THC errors are not important, almost looks like ESP errors are triggered by the EPAS error, (steering angle/torq is important for ESP)

My best guess is if grounds are 100% maybe water intrusion in steering rack motor connectors

 

[brantse]

THC errors are not important, almost looks like ESP errors are triggered by the EPAS error, (steering angle/torq is important for ESP)

My best guess is if grounds are 100% maybe water intrusion in steering rack motor connectors

Thanks. I've checked the connectors on the steering rack and nothing appears out of order or corroded.

It's also been throwing errors about the parking brakes. I've had issues a few years ago with the parking brakes when water got in them and replaced both. I took one apart today and it seems to be fine. Is it likely the EPB's or brake controller could be causing it, or more likely of a 12v or grounding issue?

 

[brantse]

Here's the list of alerts I'm seeing at the moment.

 

[kg7jo-]

Easy to change the 12v battery. Eight years is along time for a lead acid battery. It may have the volts but maybe not the current.

It's not lead acid.

 

[brantse]

It's not lead acid.

This is a 2013. It's definitely a lead acid, and it's a real pain to replace, but that's my next step. I ordered a LIFPO3 to replace it with.

 

[maximizese]

It ought to be an AGM battery and yes, it does not look easy to replace. A Tesla mobile technician just replaced mine after 3yr/35K miles and there's not much clearance and leverage to lift the small but heavy battery out of its "cave." The 12V replacement warning on the IC appeared well over 1yr/14K miles ago but I was always getting 12.9-13.4V from the center console 12V outlet. I had the left headlamp cut out twice before the 12V battery was replaced; it would come back on after toggling the headlights on and off from the MCU menu. Haven't had that issue occur again with the new 12V battery.

 

[brantse]

Well, I replaced the 12v and that didn't fix the errors. They were happening on about 50% of drives, now have been happening all the time for the past few days.

I requested a service appointment this morning and service is looking to charge a $200 remote diagnostic fee. It's been really frustrating, considering the intermittent issues and that it's likely something relatively minor. I guess I'll have to approve the remote diagnostic fee and see if service can figure it out, as I'm running out of thoughts.

 

[zoomer0056]

Well, I replaced the 12v and that didn't fix the errors. They were happening on about 50% of drives, now have been happening all the time for the past few days.

I requested a service appointment this morning and service is looking to charge a $200 remote diagnostic fee. It's been really frustrating, considering the intermittent issues and that it's likely something relatively minor. I guess I'll have to approve the remote diagnostic fee and see if service can figure it out, as I'm running out of thoughts.

I was hoping a battery swap would do it. The remote diagnostic ability is pretty cool. Keep us informed.

 

[brantse]

Now my Model S is throwing a HV isolation fault. Anyone have any suggestions on where to start? I've attempted measuring the isolation of the battery heater, cabin heater and compressor, but not sure my $50 multimeter does this job. All read fully open.

 

[Gtech]

Now my Model S is throwing a HV isolation fault. Anyone have any suggestions on where to start? I've attempted measuring the isolation of the battery heater, cabin heater and compressor, but not sure my $50 multimeter does this job. All read fully open.

Think you have to search it in your HV battery

BMS_f123_SW_Internal_Isolation
This alert points to a high voltage (HV) battery internal isolation breakdown detected. This condition is concerning and should be should be addressed rapidly and thoroughly.

Thresholds:

• BMS_a123 will trip if the isolation is below 500 Ohm/Volt or 192 Kohms at 385V and the contactors are open.
• The alert will clear if the isolation goes over 1000 ohm/volt and the contactors are open.

 

[brantse]

I heard back from the service center with the bad news. Water got into the battery and they want $15k to replace it. This is really frustrating. I'm sure tesla has enough cases of this to know to proactively recommend replacing the seal.

 

[brantse]

Update... and wow, it's been a soap opera. I placed an order for a Model Y this morning and was beginning to take the steps to start getting ready to schedule delivery. I got a call from service and they said they've been working on my battery, have replaced the pyrofuse and cover and assuming it passes a pressure test tomorrow, should be good to go back in!!

I may end up losing out on my $250 order fee and have no idea what they'll charge for the repair, but feel like it's a huge win nonetheless.

 

[Nissanman]

Update... and wow, it's been a soap opera. I placed an order for a Model Y this morning and was beginning to take the steps to start getting ready to schedule delivery. I got a call from service and they said they've been working on my battery, have replaced the pyrofuse and cover and assuming it passes a pressure test tomorrow, should be good to go back in!!

I may end up losing out on my $250 order fee and have no idea what they'll charge for the repair, but feel like it's a huge win nonetheless.

Wow! happy for you... that's awesome. I'm driving an older "S" as well, and hope to keep it going as long as possible!!! love the car.

 

[brantse]

My car is back and now it's having regular 12v system related errors. I'm so frustrated trying to figure out what the issue is. So far I've checked and reconnected every ground wire, except for the grounds behind the dash. I've removed my TPMS sensors, as I read that has occasionally caused canbus interference. None of these have changed a thing.

I'm beside myself. I really don't know where to go from here to try to diagnose the issue. I have a OBD adapter and the scanmyTesla app, but not aware of any way to use it to diagnose the issue. Anyone have any suggestions?

Here's the current errors.

 

[brantse]

Update on the troubleshooting. All the errors are now gone. Turns out that the issues were caused by a loose ABS speed sensor wire. The connector was attached, but the wire wasn't being supported by the clips, so was dangling. There were no abrasions to the wire and I didn't replace the sensor, but just disconnected, reconnected and attached it to the clips.

 

[Gtech]

Update on the troubleshooting. All the errors are now gone. Turns out that the issues were caused by a loose ABS speed sensor wire. The connector was attached, but the wire wasn't being supported by the clips, so was dangling. There were no abrasions to the wire and I didn't replace the sensor, but just disconnected, reconnected and attached it to the clips.

Did you lost your power steering with the above errors? Did you found the loose connector yourself?

 

[brantse]

Yes, I would lose power steering when those errors were present. I don't think any of the connectors were loose, but rather that the wires weren't supported.

I drove the car 4 hours yesterday to trade it in on a new Y. Strangely, the issue reappeared for a short leg of my trip. Now the issue is no longer mine to worry about/diagnose.

 

[teslick2]

Update... and wow, it's been a soap opera. I placed an order for a Model Y this morning and was beginning to take the steps to start getting ready to schedule delivery. I got a call from service and they said they've been working on my battery, have replaced the pyrofuse and cover and assuming it passes a pressure test tomorrow, should be good to go back in!!

I may end up losing out on my $250 order fee and have no idea what they'll charge for the repair, but feel like it's a huge win nonetheless.

I had a similar situation with my 2013 model S, and they were able to drop the HV battery, let it dry out for a bunch of days, and then replace a bunch of seals and parts. It's working fine again, but the whole process took 2 weeks and cost ~$2,000. They gave me a loaner the entire time, and honestly, $2,000 is much better than $15,000, so I was happy with the result.