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2013 P85 Defective Rear Toe Link

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I've been waiting since Aug 10th for a parts warranty replacement toe link from Tesla SC Langley. Now they have me booked in for Sept 23rd and there seems to be a lot of play in the rear toe link. All four of my tires have extreme inner wear. Tesla admits they installed a defective part or improperly installed it but will not replace my tires. They will also not book me in any sooner. Currently commuting 150km daily and every uneven surface on the highway forces my car to wander all over. I also started to hear my half shafts clicking as of recently, and dealing with some roof leakage ugh. Tesla SC tells me my car is safe to drive.

Next time my toe links wear out should I just get aftermarket adjustable rear toe links installed? This is very frustrating because I previously had to purchase tires due to a sloppy alignment not holding up.

Is one bad toe link enough to chew all tires on the inner? I have been complaining to Tesla SC about this highway wandering for some time. Before we discovered the torn toe link bushings they told me that the "tram-lining" I experience is normal with these heavy cars.


APRIL 13th
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AUGUST 10th
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I have a 2014 85. I found the 80NM torque was not enough to clamp the toe link bolt, allowing slight movement. I continued to tighten the nut, around an 1/8 of a turn, until it felt tight. This cured the wandering feeling.
 
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HELP! I am taking my 2014 Model S (single motor) in a few weeks. I am not driving It in the meantime....again. This is fifth time I have had the same problem: SEVERE SWERVING on acceleration or deceleration. It starts with a slight creaking sound from the left rear on acceleration. This grows louder over a period of about three weeks, then suddenly the vehicle begins lurching to the left on acceleration and then to the right on deceleration. Each time I take the car in, the Service Writer states that they have never heard of such a thing. They do a rear suspension alignment and everything works well for maybe 10K miles. This is very dangerous. Anyone else have similar issues?

Since I first wrote this comment, I have attached a GoPro to the fender to look down at the amount of movement on the wheel during acceleration and deceleration. Here is an analysis of the movements by comparing several frames from the GoPro:
 

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Do BOTH rear wheels move forward under acceleration and backward under deceleration? Or just one? The fact that one is moving *forward* under acceleration makes me think both are actually moving (in opposite directions) due to torque/twist.....

Are there any noises associated with this movement?

Movement like that definitely means you have a bad suspension component. Have you lifted a wheel of the ground to see if you can move it around? That might help you see what the movement is coming from.
 
I had the tire wear alignment issue on my 2012 MS P85. I was told that when replacing the camber arms, I should also replace the toe arms, as on an older car the bushings can wear out. Also the adjustment on the stock toe arms may not be enough range. I went with the N2itive aftermarket alignment kit 2 (Alignment Kit 2 - Inner Tire Wear - Tesla Model S/X 2012 - 2020) and so far am very happy with it. Seems this would help with any other rear alignment issues as well.
 
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I had the tire wear alignment issue on my 2012 MS P85. I was told that when replacing the camber arms, I should also replace the toe arms, as on an older car the bushings can wear out. Also the adjustment on the stock toe arms may not be enough range. I went with the N2itive aftermarket alignment kit 2 (Alignment Kit 2 - Inner Tire Wear - Tesla Model S/X 2012 - 2020) and so far am very happy with it. Seems this would help with any other rear alignment issues as well.
Wow....that's quite a kit!
 
HELP! I am taking my 2014 Model S (single motor) in a few weeks. I am not driving It in the meantime....again. This is fifth time I have had the same problem: SEVERE SWERVING on acceleration or deceleration. It starts with a slight creaking sound from the left rear on acceleration. This grows louder over a period of about three weeks, then suddenly the vehicle begins lurching to the left on acceleration and then to the right on deceleration. Each time I take the car in, the Service Writer states that they have never heard of such a thing. They do a rear suspension alignment and everything works well for maybe 10K miles. This is very dangerous. Anyone else have similar issues?

Since I first wrote this comment, I have attached a GoPro to the fender to look down at the amount of movement on the wheel during acceleration and deceleration. Here is an analysis of the movements by comparing several frames from the GoPro:
Yup- same thing on my 2014 Model S 85. At highway speeds, my car felt like it was fishtailing (major swaying left to right all over the lane) - especially during acceleration / deceleration. Took it in to Tesla for evaluation and they are installing new Toe Links. $1750 estimate to fix.
 
Yup- same thing on my 2014 Model S 85. At highway speeds, my car felt like it was fishtailing (major swaying left to right all over the lane) - especially during acceleration / deceleration. Took it in to Tesla for evaluation and they are installing new Toe Links. $1750 estimate to fix.

That's an insane cost. There are a bunch of threads on here that will show you how to do it yourself in an hour or so per side, plus the cost of parts.
 

Here's a good thread with pictures and installation instructions.

There's a a catch in replacing the toe links. They are installed so that replacing them requires dropping either the rear subframe or HV battery. That might explain the high price quote. However there is an easier way, you can cut the bolts with a saw or a bult cutter, then install new bolts the other way around.
 

Here's a good thread with pictures and installation instructions.

There's a a catch in replacing the toe links. They are installed so that replacing them requires dropping either the rear subframe or HV battery. That might explain the high price quote. However there is an easier way, you can cut the bolts with a saw or a bult cutter, then install new bolts the other way around.

I actually talked to some mobile techs about this. They no longer drop the battery - they just cut the bolt. The number of hours in the standard BOM sheet does not offer enough time for them to comfortably drop the battery.
 
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I actually talked to some mobile techs about this. They no longer drop the battery - they just cut the bolt. The number of hours in the standard BOM sheet does not offer enough time for them to comfortably drop the battery.
My son and I have just replaced the rear suspension arms in his 2015 S70D, including the toe links. We were planing to cut the bolts, but didn't need to do so. They simply came off after wiggling them a bit. Saved us a lot of time.
 
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