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2013 S 29k/63,794 miles Pitfalls and Possibilities?

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So, I think a conventional, premium ICE car with a price like this would be really good if one was in the market for such a ride. Just over 10k a year is low mileage per year!

What are the Pitfalls and Possibilities of buying a 2013 60D? I'm not really looking for 'I'd rather it be a P100D' comments but more along lines of good questions to ask the dealer who probably doesn't know as much as they think they do.
Or even things like, "this year can't run the latest Autopilot because of software/hardware limits." Concerns on battery life etc.
Things to look for etc.

From what I can see it looks pretty clean but on a Deep Dive with you experts on here who know more than I do... what questions spring to mind right away both good and bad?

Let me know if the link works or not.... I think it should.

Teach people, teach!

Mark
 
battery degredation, door handles, tpms sensors, MCU failure, drive unit issues

There is no autopilot at all.

This is the year where tech package was optional. You can tell if you have it by what color your headlights are (lol) or if you have actual turn by turn navigation, not just google maps on the screen.
 
battery degredation, door handles, tpms sensors, MCU failure, drive unit issues

There is no autopilot at all.

This is the year where tech package was optional. You can tell if you have it by what color your headlights are (lol) or if you have actual turn by turn navigation, not just google maps on the screen.
I believe the OP is asking in comparison to a standard ICE car of this value and the short answer is: It blows everything out of the water even if it doesn't drive itself. Nothing else in this price range will either so I don't know why people always bring that up.
 
Well kinda... I absolutely believe that this Model S blows comparable cars of any kind out of the water, I guess I am looking more for some tips on pros and cons to an S of this era and a Buyer's Guide type check list of things to look out for, like demundus listed.
 
That's a very early VIN which will have a few more kinks that should / could have been worked out with proper maintenance. Personally, I would look for VIN in 25,000 + range, unless you can review actual Tesla service records to see the "upgrades." FYI, the early 2013s do not have parking sensors or folding mirrors, regardless of tech package status.
 
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After 6 years, most of the problems noted above should have already arisen and been fixed. Not to say things like door handles won't break again.

Degradation can be found by charging to 90%, and comparing the displayed rated miles to 90% of EPA for that model.

Options and price history of similar cars can be found on EV CPO Hunter.

Do your research. Most everything is here and searchable, including prebuy checklists. One exception is the Tesla tap page, and the owner's manual there.
 
I have an S60 in the 10,000-15,000 vin range. I've had some minor issues in the last 20,000 miles, currently at 78,000. Nothing major, door hinge replaced, window adjustment, steering bolt recall, tail light condensation, rear axle nuts replaced, I get 189 rated miles at 100%. Real world is about 170 which has been enough for about 95% of my daily driving. If it has chrome trim near the front vents in the bumper and rear lower diffuser it has the tech package. No fog lights but I don't miss them. Mine has the premium lighting package and upgraded audio and it's a pleasure to drive. Supercharging follows the vin if activated.
 
I have a 85k mile 2014 P85, in the last 20months 20k miles it has a charger fault that has reduced the secondary charger capacity to 32amp so I get 72 instead of 80. If the car were single charger this would have cost $2200 because I would have had to fix it.
$6-700 on brakes parts only labor was mine, in places where rust is a thing it is hard on brakes, they need at least annual teardown, cleaning and lubrication, TPMS module died $628 including update to the new system and new in tire sensors, pack heater which is as I hear it $400 but Tesla comped.this because it was hours after I got the car back from the TPMS failure.
Car has a suspension rattles I need to dig into, hopefully something cheapish like swaybar bushings.

Here near Green Bay it is cold, my spring fall 7mile drive to work I average 270wh/m gets cold that will go over 500 if I fail to preheat and it is sub-zero it can go over 700wh/mile. Supercharging is slow with a cold pack.

IMO a 60 in PA would be treated as a city car in winter, I would not try to take any 100+mile trips.