2013 S 85 multiple codes and won’t drive

[chattS]

Tues morning it was raining, and I was driving my 2013 S 85. I worked a 10 hour shift (no longer raining), and came out to the car. My door handles didn’t come out immediately, so I had to click my fob to unlock. The door handles came out, and I got in the car. I noticed my interior temp hadn’t activated to my set point and time. I got these multiple codes:
DI_u014 Unable to drive
BMS_f123 service is required
GTW_w157 power reduced
BMS_w123 vehicle may not restart
GTW_w108 electrical system power reduced
GTW_w107 electrical system power reduced
Eventually I lost all power. Screens won’t come on, handles won’t come out, nothing works. I did use jumper cables to hook up my truck to the posts behind the nose cone. At that point I was able to get in the car, screens came on, etc but the car still showing codes and won’t move.
The display shows 155 miles range.
What should I do? Change the 12v battery? Check fuses?

 

[brainhouston]

search is ur friend...
u got internal isolation error for HV pack so most likely water got inside

 

[chattS]

search is ur friend...
u got internal isolation error for HV pack so most likely water got inside

I did use search. I got a thread where a user had pretty much exact codes. He said a 12v battery fixed his car. I think someone else linked to another thread having to do with water.
Which error is one for isolation error for HV pack?

 

[brainhouston]

i don't know why ppl keep suggesting useless 12v replacements, that will never fix anything...
f123 is isolation code (if u search this error u will find my thread n many others...)
go into service mode, it has more details for each code

 

[chattS]

i don't know why ppl keep suggesting useless 12v replacements, that will never fix anything...
f123 is isolation code (if u search this error u will find my thread n many others...)
go into service mode, it has more details for each code

Can you please maybe link me some threads? There’s so much info I don’t know where to start. I have tools and a fluke meter, but the car is stuck in a parking lot 40 miles from my house. Is the f123 code the main thing to start with?

 

[danielk04]

Well, since you have some tools and a fluke meter, I have a multi-step process guaranteed to solve your car issue.
1) Contact Tesla service and or Recell battery repair.
2) Get out a personal check.
3) Fill the check out for 13,000 to 22 thousand dollars.

In two to ten years, rinse and repeat. Now, wasn't that easy?

 

[maximizese]

If your 12V battery is more than 3 years old then replacing it with a new one is a semi-reasonable place to start. The theory is that Tesla many sensors and systems don't work well when the 12V system is finicky. However, it does sound like you have an isolation fault and the fact that you mentioned rain makes it sound like you have issues beyond the 12V battery. I would get a diagnosis from Tesla Service and would also recommend contacting Recell to get their opinion as well. Good luck.

 

[brainhouston]

Can you please maybe link me some threads? There’s so much info I don’t know where to start. I have tools and a fluke meter, but the car is stuck in a parking lot 40 miles from my house. Is the f123 code the main thing to start with?

yes f123 is the cause of all the other codes
u will need to remove HV pack from the car, then open it to dry it (water most likely got in thru rusted fuse cover on top)
its not an easy job
u need to do a lot of research before u start.

2014 P85d High Voltage Failure

Unfortunately, I ended up with a HV battery failure last night – 2014 P85D. There were buckets of errors on the screen mostly related to a dead 12v which I hoped was the issue so I replace it. When the car came back on, the errors persisted. ScanMyTesla shows Cell 46 down over a volt and Cell 47...

teslamotorsclub.com

Car died. BMS errors f123, w123, w073, w035, w142, w158

Unfortunately my 2016 MX 90D decided to surprise me with these errors :confused: We had a few days of cold/snow days and the car did fine. Last couple of days its been above freezing and everything already melted. I drove the car in the morning, then parked on driveway. Few hours later, started...

teslamotorsclub.com

check out fb u029/u018 group, they have lots of 3rd parties listed there that work on HV packs
f123 is an easy error to fix since no actual hardware probably failed but the labor involved is pretty much the same due to opening the pack
there's some ideas been floating around about running hot air thru umbrella valves to dry like shoe dryer but i don't know if anyone got successful that way...

 

[chattS]

I put the car in service mode and checked faults again.

 

[Lasttoy]

My 12v battery died all of a sudden. Nothing worked. Finally got in. Bought one at SC. Took two hours to replace. The old cares are pure hell to get to, and lift out. My 2017 has it's original battery. I have new one in trunk waiting to see how long it will last. Oh I have 10mm wrench with it.
Seems when they die everyone gets different errors. I mean a lot different.

 

[chattS]

yes f123 is the cause of all the other codes
u will need to remove HV pack from the car, then open it to dry it (water most likely got in thru rusted fuse cover on top)
its not an easy job
u need to do a lot of research before u start.

2014 P85d High Voltage Failure

Unfortunately, I ended up with a HV battery failure last night – 2014 P85D. There were buckets of errors on the screen mostly related to a dead 12v which I hoped was the issue so I replace it. When the car came back on, the errors persisted. ScanMyTesla shows Cell 46 down over a volt and Cell 47...

teslamotorsclub.com

Car died. BMS errors f123, w123, w073, w035, w142, w158

Unfortunately my 2016 MX 90D decided to surprise me with these errors :confused: We had a few days of cold/snow days and the car did fine. Last couple of days its been above freezing and everything already melted. I drove the car in the morning, then parked on driveway. Few hours later, started...

teslamotorsclub.com

check out fb u029/u018 group, they have lots of 3rd parties listed there that work on HV packs
f123 is an easy error to fix since no actual hardware probably failed but the labor involved is pretty much the same due to opening the pack
there's some ideas been floating around about running hot air thru umbrella valves to dry like shoe dryer but i don't know if anyone got successful that way...

I saw on your thread about testing hv resistances in a junction box. Is there a thread or video on where to do this and what the values should be? Wouldn’t that data be a definitive indicator?

 

[chattS]

My 12v battery died all of a sudden. Nothing worked. Finally got in. Bought one at SC. Took two hours to replace. The old cares are pure hell to get to, and lift out. My 2017 has it's original battery. I have new one in trunk waiting to see how long it will last. Oh I have 10mm wrench with it.
Seems when they die everyone gets different errors. I mean a lot different.

So you’re thinking to change the 12v battery? The car is completely bricked unless you hook up a 12v source behind the nose cone.
As a side question, can you charge the 12v from those posts, or does it have to be at the actual battery?

 

[Brass Guy]

12v battery is probably not your original problem; though it now has been deep cycled which is a stress on it.
If the HV contacts won't close to power the car (as is your case with those errors), the 12v battery will completely drain in a matter of hours. That is why you need to keep jumping the 12v system to bring it back to life.

 

[brainhouston]

Seems when they die everyone gets different errors. I mean a lot different.

but u won't get internal isolation error...
any BMS error will prevent contactors from closing which will prevent 12v from charging n die pretty quick due to all other systems running off of it
if u don't re-charge it right away then yes its possibly won't hold charge anymore, just how lead acid ones work...

 

[Electric700]

ChattS, did the 12 V fix it? That is the cheapest possible solution to try first since a new one can be purchased for usually less than $200.

 

[chattS]

I bought a 12v from SC, but I didn’t install it yet. SC looked at my codes and went straight to wanting to replace the hv battery. I reached out to ReCell in Texas, and they also looked at my codes and quoted me for replacing the hv battery. I sent all the info to Electrified Garage in FL, and they said hv battery needs repair or replacement. So far, none of the supposed experts have said to try a fresh 12v battery.
I just got the car home yesterday, so now I have access to my 12v battery charger. I could also replace it to see if it does anything…

ChattS, did the 12 V fix it? That is the cheapest possible solution to try first since a new one can be purchased for usually less than $200.

 

[brainhouston]

I saw on your thread about testing hv resistances in a junction box. Is there a thread or video on where to do this and what the values should be? Wouldn’t that data be a definitive indicator?

not sure what u referring to? link?

u asked for help, u got it, u need to fix f123
not sure what else ur looking for...

 

[chattS]

not sure what u referring to? link?

u asked for help, u got it, u need to fix f123
not sure what else ur looking for...

I found the info in the service manual.
On your thread, recell and mk commented that they wouldn’t allow their guys to open a battery with f123. Am I understanding them correctly that they’re saying the actual battery case can be energized in this situation?
I’m thinking about pulling the battery myself (if I can find a lift to borrow), but I need to be sure I understand what parts have the potential to be energized and when.

 

[brainhouston]

...
On your thread, recell and mk commented that they wouldn’t allow their guys to open a battery with f123. Am I understanding them correctly that they’re saying the actual battery case can be energized in this situation?
...

yes but everyone seem to freak out about it for no reason.
its not like u have direct short to case all the time, unless u have like an inch of standing water in ur pack
think of it as a string of Christmas lights, full potential is only when u touch both ends..
plus, for electricity to flow (ie shock you) u need a complete path, even if one HV side is shorted to ground u still need to touch another end to complete the circuit
yes, do be careful around HV in general n wear gloves but its not as scary as everyone makes it sound
also, since both sides of contactors are directly plugged into BMS you'll see some voltage at pyro fuse (~170v in my case) so don't be alarmed, thats normal