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2014 Model S 12V battery will not hold charge, also receiving external_isolation and other errors

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Sometimes performing the coolant bypass on an LDU will allow the stator to dry and the isolation improves. They probably want to replace your rear harness because it was damaged by coolant.
that's interesting. I was wondering if removing any coolant (assuming leaking coolant is the cause of isolation loss) and installing the coolant delete would resolve the issue without having to completely replace the LDU? How can I determine whether the damage is permanent or can be remedied by coolant delete?

regarding the harness are you talking about the rear subframe harness? or the HV cable between the LDU and RJB? I just had the rear subframe harness replaced several months ago due to HVIL error. I have the old harness - where would I check for coolant/corrosion damage?
 
I picked up the repaired Model S this weekend. All back to normal charging, driving, no issues

$7200 total bill, including 2 hours for HV circuit diag, which included some technician time to move the limping car into the the service bay, .5 hour to fix a stripped screw under the back seat created ostensibly by the PO.

I did receive the bad LDU back and will be opening it up this weekend to assess damage. My hope is that I can repair it and sell for $2k to recover some of the repair cost. The technician told me he suspected an electrical issue not coolant leak because the connectors were not corroded. He said that when they see bad LDUs from coolant issue the connectors are corroded badly.

$275 for an alignment, easily the most expensive alignment I've ever had.
Plus another .5 hour labor for post-install drive testing.
 
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I picked up the repaired Model S this weekend. All back to normal charging, driving, no issues

$7200 total bill, including 2 hours for HV circuit diag, which included some technician time to move the limping car into the the service bay, .5 hour to fix a stripped screw under the back seat created ostensibly by the PO.

I did receive the bad LDU back and will be opening it up this weekend to assess damage. My hope is that I can repair it and sell for $2k to recover some of the repair cost. The technician told me he suspected an electrical issue not coolant leak because the connectors were not corroded. He said that when they see bad LDUs from coolant issue the connectors are corroded badly.

$275 for an alignment, easily the most expensive alignment I've ever had.
Plus another .5 hour labor for post-install drive testing.
And they did not break anything or damage anything in the process?

You won the Tesla SvC lottery in my book!
 
And they did not break anything or damage anything in the process?

You won the Tesla SvC lottery in my book!
not as far as I can tell. they did get gum on the drivers window frame. I have no idea how, but the drivers window lowered after I dropped off a completely dead car with the tow truck. They said they were going to bring a battery out, jump it so that it turned on so they could raise the window, but apparently taping plastic was easier/faster?

the car drives fine now. I have noticed any difference in charging or driving even after putting 500+ miles on it since pickup.

I did receive the old LDU back and it's sitting in the crate in my garage. Need to get it onto my bench and open it up to see what's wrong.

I did notice that the old engine is a "-Q" model number.

Any idea what these are worth to a refurber? I guess it depends on what's wrong with it?
 
not as far as I can tell. they did get gum on the drivers window frame. I have no idea how, but the drivers window lowered after I dropped off a completely dead car with the tow truck. They said they were going to bring a battery out, jump it so that it turned on so they could raise the window, but apparently taping plastic was easier/faster?

the car drives fine now. I have noticed any difference in charging or driving even after putting 500+ miles on it since pickup.

I did receive the old LDU back and it's sitting in the crate in my garage. Need to get it onto my bench and open it up to see what's wrong.

I did notice that the old engine is a "-Q" model number.

Any idea what these are worth to a refurber? I guess it depends on what's wrong with it?
Just finished watching a couple of vids of an LDU rebuild, link was posted on TMC somewhere.

You could reach out to the rebuilder, in the PNW.