2014 Model S P85 buying advice

[crazy150]

Hey all. I’ve found a higher mileage (78k) P85 that a local dealer took on trade and has it listed incorrectly as a 60kwh so I don’t think they are getting the traffic they expected. Seems to be a good price and they’ve had it a while so can probably get them down even more.

I drove it the other day and seemed good, but it wasn’t on full charge so didn’t get the chance to check the battery. MCU seemed fine but didn’t check to see if it was replaced or not.

I’m thinking of making an offer once I confirm the battery and the McU, but is there anyway to tell if the drive unit was replaced? I didn’t hear any noise coming from it fwiw.

Also was considering the 3rd party warranty, but need to consider replacing that drive unit if I have to. What’s about the battery—Tesla warranty is over (or about to be). What price should I prepare for for these big ticket items if I need to down the road a bit.

Anything other than range on full charge and mcu that I should look out for? Sunroof was working, door handles presenting, don’t see any water in the head lamps or floors.

 

[goodbadboys9]

Check if it still under warrenty.

For the battery,we can easily check if it was replaced by checking sticker behind front passenger tire.

When it comes to replacement costs for Battery we have couple of options
1:Wk057 or EV-cell who are active members in this forum.It will cost you 5-7k but I believe they have wait time of atleast 4-6 months.
2:Getting it replaced from Tesla for 12-15k

For the DU I believe ev-cell can fix it but not sure on the pricing

common issue are leaky air suspension/Blown fuse in DC-DC converter/Door handles

What is there asking price?

 

[KJD]

There is a thread that talks about all the options for drive unit repair and or replacement.

Out of Warranty Drive Unit Replacement and Cost

Worth the time to read all of it before you purchase a used Model S.

I would urge caution on purchasing a Tesla that is soon to be out of warranty. The parts are expensive and the shop rates at the Tesla service centers are also expensive. There may or may not be a 3rd party repair shop in your area.

If you are unlucky and end up replacing the battery and the drive unit and the MCU, you will be into the car about the same as a NEW base Model 3. Something to think about.

 

[crazy150]

Check if it still under warrenty.

For the battery,we can easily check if it was replaced by checking sticker behind front passenger tire.

When it comes to replacement costs for Battery we have couple of options
1:Wk057 or EV-cell who are active members in this forum.It will cost you 5-7k but I believe they have wait time of atleast 4-6 months.
2:Getting it replaced from Tesla for 12-15k

For the DU I believe ev-cell can fix it but not sure on the pricing

common issue are leaky air suspension/Blown fuse in DC-DC converter/Door handles

What is there asking price?

Thanks so much. The asking price is 29k. I’m assuming the free SC has been removed but is there anyway to check that as well? Carfax says two owners. One has it two years and then the second owner has it the rest.

 

[crazy150]

There is a thread that talks about all the options for drive unit repair and or replacement.

Out of Warranty Drive Unit Replacement and Cost

Worth the time to read all of it before you purchase a used Model S.

I would urge caution on purchasing a Tesla that is soon to be out of warranty. The parts are expensive and the shop rates at the Tesla service centers are also expensive. There may or may not be a 3rd party repair shop in your area.

If you are unlucky and end up replacing the battery and the drive unit and the MCU, you will be into the car about the same as a NEW base Model 3. Something to think about.

Thanks. I’ll give it a good read. This will be a 3rd car for my family and I wanted something “fun” or “interesting”. I have a 40k ish budget so thinking I could stomach some repairs if otherwise it was a good deal. I probably won’t put too many miles on it tbh. I was about to pay 15k for a golf cart and thought that was dumb when I can get an old Tesla for 30k.

 

[WallysRide]

Thanks. I’ll give it a good read. This will be a 3rd car for my family and I wanted something “fun” or “interesting”. I have a 40k ish budget so thinking I could stomach some repairs if otherwise it was a good deal. I probably won’t put too many miles on it tbh. I was about to pay 15k for a golf cart and thought that was dumb when I can get an old Tesla for 30k.

If you want to minimize the risk of needing to replace a drive unit in the future, go for an AWD, non-performance model - these use the smaller drive units in front and back, and these are supposed to be much more reliable.

 

[crazy150]

If you want to minimize the risk of needing to replace a drive unit in the future, go for an AWD, non-performance model - these use the smaller drive units in front and back, and these are supposed to be much more reliable.

Okay, thanks. I know there are threads on this very topic but what years would you consider optimal in the pre-2018 region?

 

[WallysRide]

Okay, thanks. I know there are threads on this very topic but what years would you consider optimal in the pre-2018 region?

Looking for your own personal "best used S" seems to depend on the specific features you prioritize.

Here are various things that different folks seem to prioritize:
-- Battery size and current max range
-- Free supercharging
-- RWD vs. AWD
-- Performance vs. non-performance
-- Sunroof
-- Late 2016 facelift (no nosecone)
-- Autopilot/FSD capabilities
-- MCU2 already done
-- Supercharging speeds (so trying to avoid older 85 batteries that have been "nerfed" by Tesla)
-- Finding a car that has a newer HV battery and/or drive unit (already replaced under warranty)

So I suggest trying to figure out the features that are most important to you, and that will narrow down years and models for you.

 

[brainhouston]

Okay, thanks. I know there are threads on this very topic but what years would you consider optimal in the pre-2018 region?

i keep hearing members here say 2015+ when lots of things got fix/re-designed
personally i'd got for 2016 facelift +
also, now that i got AP1 MX, i'd def choose AP2+ just cause of the upgradable AP hardware...

 

[howardc64]

All RWD will suffer drive unit coolant leak problems every few years ($7k+ replacement at Tesla). If wasn't just replaced on the car you are looking at, expect failure within 1-2 years. So Dual motor is preferable but of course more $. More gory details in my signature links if interested.

 

[Xenoilphobe]

All RWD will suffer drive unit coolant leak problems every few years ($7k+ replacement at Tesla). If wasn't just replaced on the car you are looking at, expect failure within 1-2 years. So Dual motor is preferable but of course more $. More gory details in my signature links if interested.

Weird, I had a 2013, (Sept build) 50K+ miles and have a 2014 P85+ (March build) with 150K miles and a 2016 90D (Sept build) with 100K+ miles and never had this happen. Still getting 250 mIles of range on the 2014 with original DU, battery and brakes and getting 274 miles of range on the 90D. Things I have had to do, tires, windshield wipers, a windshield X4 , windshield washer pump($29), 12 volt battery 6 times in 3 cars (using LiPo4) cabin filter 4 times, all the door handles (did it myself with a $50 it per door kit), one rear air shock ($1200 installed by Tesla), one lower control arm ($300) installed myself.

Replaced the MCU's in both the 2014 and 2016. Tesla lied their ass off, and didn't cover the $2500 cost (X2), new MCU's have been bullet proof.

Things I changed or added, rear adjustable camber links, (tires now last over 30K), dumped the crappy 21 wheels (38 lbs each) on all 3 cars after numerous cracked wheels and damaged side walls, and dropped half the weight going to 19 inch fully forged wheels. (Titan7's - 20 lbs each), added aftermarket speakers, sub, and amp (Light Harmonic), after a accident (daughter) added the new refresh bumper and a new hood, 2 inch tow hitch X2 and 1 1/4 hitch X1 cars , tint (four times) Huber Optic and another one (can't remember), added USB C X 4, per car and added 1200 watt clean sine wave DC to AC power inverter in frunk, added 4 12 volt cigarette plugs, (frunk, truck, rear seat column, added better cup holders front and rear. Added wireless charger in the new cup holders system I modified. Added Blackview cloud cameras front, rear and side in every car.

Occasionally the car will have error codes, one has to do the the air suspension pump, I found out the at the main fuse wasn't seated well, removed it from the fuse box cleaned it up, added dielectric grease, no further issues. (BTW the 4 fuse boxes are a pain in the ass. They use those micro fuses that you have to pull with a 90 degree tiny needle nose pliers. 3 fuse boxes in the FRUNK below the windshield shelf, and one inside by the accelerator kick panel)

Get the S, I have 300K of free supercharging, and never been stranded by this car. Just throw $14K in the bank in case the battery goes and drive the crap out of it. Very few cars will even keep up with an 8 year old P85... just other Teslas and a couple of gear heads that know how to drive their ICE cars. These things are tanks and will be the road for a long time. I plan to get a CyberTruck next, if they ever build the GD thing.

 

[howardc64]

Weird, I have 2014 P85+ (March build) with 150K miles and never had this happen. Still getting 250 mIles of range and on the original DU, Battery and Brakes.

Yes, there are lots of variables. One possible guess is early drive units seems to use a better seal (later ones seems to have higher failure rates) that lasted longer. But most early drive units got swapped out under warranty from milling noise (non ceramic bearing) and clunking (probably excessive gear lash) I believe most early RWD cars are on >= 3 drive units. Later DUs seems to use poorer seal from the info we've collected.

Seal performance also depends on shaft surface. Yours is new original. Tesla DU warranty replacements included many rebuilds and would depend on rebuild quality. How well did the rebuilder prepare the shaft surface for the seal? Its unknown. Whats likely is multiple global locations are contracted out to do DU rebuilds.

Leakage failure also doesn't seem to correlate to mileage. Lower mile cars seems to also fail at high rates (or maybe even high rates) It seems more related to time than miles. But no one really know the actual leakage mechanism. From studying seals, I know need to consider static leak (car parked, nothing turning) and dynamic leak (car under rotation)

Anyway, lots of variables. You could pull the speed sensor to make sure not leaking. Earliest leakage shows on the sensor while giving no other signs until enough leak accumulates and cause collateral damage (washout bearing grease, short out motor and inverter)

 

[crazy150]

Looking for your own personal "best used S" seems to depend on the specific features you prioritize.

Here are various things that different folks seem to prioritize:
-- Battery size and current max range
-- Free supercharging
-- RWD vs. AWD
-- Performance vs. non-performance
-- Sunroof
-- Late 2016 facelift (no nosecone)
-- Autopilot/FSD capabilities
-- MCU2 already done
-- Supercharging speeds (so trying to avoid older 85 batteries that have been "nerfed" by Tesla)
-- Finding a car that has a newer HV battery and/or drive unit (already replaced under warranty)

So I suggest trying to figure out the features that

Weird, I had a 2013, (Sept build) 50K+ miles and have a 2014 P85+ (March build) with 150K miles and a 2016 90D (Sept build) with 100K+ miles and never had this happen. Still getting 250 mIles of range on the 2014 with original DU, battery and brakes and getting 274 miles of range on the 90D. Things I have had to do, tires, windshield wipers, a windshield X4 , windshield washer pump($29), 12 volt battery 6 times in 3 cars (using LiPo4) cabin filter 4 times, all the door handles (did it myself with a $50 it per door kit), one rear air shock ($1200 installed by Tesla), one lower control arm ($300) installed myself.

Replaced the MCU's in both the 2014 and 2016. Tesla lied their ass off, and didn't cover the $2500 cost (X2), new MCU's have been bullet proof.

Things I changed or added, rear adjustable camber links, (tires now last over 30K), dumped the crappy 21 wheels (38 lbs each) on all 3 cars after numerous cracked wheels and damaged side walls, and dropped half the weight going to 19 inch fully forged wheels. (Titan7's - 20 lbs each), added aftermarket speakers, sub, and amp (Light Harmonic), after a accident (daughter) added the new refresh bumper and a new hood, 2 inch tow hitch X2 and 1 1/4 hitch X1 cars , tint (four times) Huber Optic and another one (can't remember), added USB C X 4, per car and added 1200 watt clean sine wave DC to AC power inverter in frunk, added 4 12 volt cigarette plugs, (frunk, truck, rear seat column, added better cup holders front and rear. Added wireless charger in the new cup holders system I modified. Added Blackview cloud cameras front, rear and side in every car.

Occasionally the car will have error codes, one has to do the the air suspension pump, I found out the at the main fuse wasn't seated well, removed it from the fuse box cleaned it up, added dielectric grease, no further issues. (BTW the 4 fuse boxes are a pain in the ass. They use those micro fuses that you have to pull with a 90 degree tiny needle nose pliers. 3 fuse boxes in the FRUNK below the windshield shelf, and one inside by the accelerator kick panel)

Get the S, I have 300K of free supercharging, and never been stranded by this car. Just throw $14K in the bank in case the battery goes and drive the crap out of it. Very few cars will even keep up with an 8 year old P85... just other Teslas and a couple of gear heads that know how to drive their ICE cars. These things are tanks and will be the road for a long time. I plan to get a CyberTruck next, if they ever build the GD thing.

Thanks. This is refreshing. Every time I come to this place when I’m thinking of a used Tesla while I wait for my CT I get cold feet from all the horror stories.

 

[crazy150]

Weird, I had a 2013, (Sept build) 50K+ miles and have a 2014 P85+ (March build) with 150K miles and a 2016 90D (Sept build) with 100K+ miles and never had this happen. Still getting 250 mIles of range on the 2014 with original DU, battery and brakes and getting 274 miles of range on the 90D. Things I have had to do, tires, windshield wipers, a windshield X4 , windshield washer pump($29), 12 volt battery 6 times in 3 cars (using LiPo4) cabin filter 4 times, all the door handles (did it myself with a $50 it per door kit), one rear air shock ($1200 installed by Tesla), one lower control arm ($300) installed myself.

Replaced the MCU's in both the 2014 and 2016. Tesla lied their ass off, and didn't cover the $2500 cost (X2), new MCU's have been bullet proof.

Things I changed or added, rear adjustable camber links, (tires now last over 30K), dumped the crappy 21 wheels (38 lbs each) on all 3 cars after numerous cracked wheels and damaged side walls, and dropped half the weight going to 19 inch fully forged wheels. (Titan7's - 20 lbs each), added aftermarket speakers, sub, and amp (Light Harmonic), after a accident (daughter) added the new refresh bumper and a new hood, 2 inch tow hitch X2 and 1 1/4 hitch X1 cars , tint (four times) Huber Optic and another one (can't remember), added USB C X 4, per car and added 1200 watt clean sine wave DC to AC power inverter in frunk, added 4 12 volt cigarette plugs, (frunk, truck, rear seat column, added better cup holders front and rear. Added wireless charger in the new cup holders system I modified. Added Blackview cloud cameras front, rear and side in every car.

Occasionally the car will have error codes, one has to do the the air suspension pump, I found out the at the main fuse wasn't seated well, removed it from the fuse box cleaned it up, added dielectric grease, no further issues. (BTW the 4 fuse boxes are a pain in the ass. They use those micro fuses that you have to pull with a 90 degree tiny needle nose pliers. 3 fuse boxes in the FRUNK below the windshield shelf, and one inside by the accelerator kick panel)

Get the S, I have 300K of free supercharging, and never been stranded by this car. Just throw $14K in the bank in case the battery goes and drive the crap out of it. Very few cars will even keep up with an 8 year old P85... just other Teslas and a couple of gear heads that know how to drive their ICE cars. These things are tanks and will be the road for a long time. I plan to get a CyberTruck next, if they ever build the GD thing.

The sales guy didn’t seem to know anything about the free supercharging. I’m working on the assumption it doesn’t have it. But is there a way to find out? On the screen it said something like “add payment information” or something so I assume that means no or am I wrong?

 

[henderrj]

The sales guy didn’t seem to know anything about the free supercharging. I’m working on the assumption it doesn’t have it. But is there a way to find out? On the screen it said something like “add payment information” or something so I assume that means no or am I wrong?

Since you need to test drive it anyway, just get in it, tap the screen, push the lightning bolt icon and then find a charger near you. The one two and three dots at the top? Just have the three only highlighted and then go to it and see if it'll plug in! It'll also tell you then whether or not you have to pay for those charges.

I've got over 260,000 miles on my December 2014 build 85. It has the large motor but not the performance electronics. That last drive unit, my third, was replaced at just over 60,000 mi, if I remember correctly. No problem since. I have the wk057 tech extended battery warranty, although I've had no need for it. Still on the original battery. I do love my car!

 

[crazy150]

Since you need to test drive it anyway, just get in it, tap the screen, push the lightning bolt icon and then find a charger near you. The one two and three dots at the top? Just have the three only highlighted and then go to it and see if it'll plug in! It'll also tell you then whether or not you have to pay for those charges.

I've got over 260,000 miles on my December 2014 build 85. It has the large motor but not the performance electronics. That last drive unit, my third, was replaced at just over 60,000 mi, if I remember correctly. No problem since. I have the wk057 tech extended battery warranty, although I've had no need for it. Still on the original battery. I do love my car!

Okay, thanks. I did drive it. Didn’t notice any sound from the drive unit but I have to go check some things I missed looking at (battery pack, MCU, etc) so I’ll see if they will let me take it to the SC.

There’s no easy way to tell if the DU has been replaced is there?

Edit: after doing some digging on the VIN, it looks like it was sold sued by Tesla and therefore likely has the lifetime connectivity and SC removed.

 

[henderrj]

Okay, thanks. I did drive it. Didn’t notice any sound from the drive unit but I have to go check some things I missed looking at (battery pack, MCU, etc) so I’ll see if they will let me take it to the SC.

There’s no easy way to tell if the DU has been replaced is there?

Edit: after doing some digging on the VIN, it looks like it was sold sued by Tesla and therefore likely has the lifetime connectivity and SC removed.

Unless you take the car on road trips, charging costs never come into play. It's just so convenient (and cheap here in OK) to charge at home (if possible for you) that I never use our local superchargers. On the other hand, this is a fun road trip car!

 

[crazy150]

Unless you take the car on road trips, charging costs never come into play. It's just so convenient (and cheap here in OK) to charge at home (if possible for you) that I never use our local superchargers. On the other hand, this is a fun road trip car!

Ya, not a huge deal but nice and seems to help resell value so being sure it’s not available should help in negotiation.

 

[crazy150]

Is there anyway to tell the warranty info? Looks like it was sold by Tesla as used in 2020 with 40k miles on it. Did they have a 4 year 100k warranty on used back then?

 

[Xenoilphobe]

The sales guy didn’t seem to know anything about the free supercharging. I’m working on the assumption it doesn’t have it. But is there a way to find out? On the screen it said something like “add payment information” or something so I assume that means no or am I wrong?

download the Tesla APP or have the owner show you the specs and warranty section at the bottom of your mobile app. also you can go into the screen and look up the specs.