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2014 P85 Depreciation?

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65k miles I paid $800 for 4 year maintenance
At that time they diagnosed an issue with primary charger options were $300 to swap it to slave or $2200 replace. Chose $300 car charges at 72 amps instead of 80amps.
Year later TPMS computer fails disabling the car due to flooding the CanBus. $600

$700 in parts for rotors and all new pads including parking brake, labor was DIY.

$1260 front suspension repairs.

$400 pack heater replacement, this failure disabled the car.

$220 12volt replacement, Ranger did this at my home.
$40 for a washer pump DIY labor.

Recalls on steering bolt's and airbag.

Charge port lights have gone crappy but doesn't affect function, sounds like this is $400 to fix.
One of the doorhandles LEDs is out sounds like they would want to do the whole handle $$$.

Car started out in the southwest has not been in WI the whole time.

This is all between 65-93k miles and a little over 2 years.

I have owned cars over 200k that I didn't have this much trouble with this quickly.

I wonder how many of the "nothing to fail" crowd own cars under 2yo.
This is the exact reason i would never own a car like this out of warranty
 
While I don't disagree and I'm personally a fan of unique specimens, I think you and others should temper just how much you think this will help. By this I mean that outside of like a few dozen people on this forum and maybe one or two other groups... nobody really knows. I've got a P85D+ but I really didn't seek one out, I just got lucky. I'm also not putting a ton of weight in how much it will help the resale value. I think it's a better approach to assume it will basically be sold for about the same as other similar cars that are non "+" but that it will sell faster. If you go out thinking you'll get thousands more than comparable vehicles w/o the "+" I think you may be disappointed with how long it takes to sell since it just looks like an overpriced car to the average buyer.

Also, your comparison on plays out on a prepped track in ideal conditions. On a cooler day when the tires aren't super sticky or on a public roadway where there's debris or even rain the traction limitation will be a drastic difference between those two cars. Only under perfect conditions will the P85+ come even remotely close to keeping up with a P100DL.



Whoever says EVs have zero repairs is smoking some good stuff. While it's tough to argue that they don't have known issues I think you'd be hard pressed to find ANY car that has zero issues. Even the most reliable cars to this point have known problems and Tesla is no different. When I said EVs will be more reliable long-term I meant that it's tough to argue that hundreds of moving parts doesn't present more potential failure points than dozens of moving parts. I wasn't trying to say that EVs are flawless but I think that long-term the fear of battery packs failing at 100k or even 200k will be a distant memory once these things consistently go 500k mor more miles.

You're 100% about your comment about the CPO program being a distant memory and Tesla selling "used cars" now because they should be purchased as such. Treat them like any other used car purchase with the added bonus of a Tesla warranty on mechanical defects and you'll be good to go. You still need to examine them fully prior to purchase because any cosmetic defects you accept are now yours to deal with. The sooner we get people to stop calling them CPO cars the sooner potential buyers will treat them with the same skepticism as any other used car and the happier the buyers will be.

Carfax and other background check options on the market: take these with a grain of salt. It's best to assume ALL cars have been in an accident even if the Carfax comes back "clean" because all that means is that if a shop did repairs they didn't report them to Carfax which is becoming increasingly common. There's no benefit for repair shops to make that extra effort report damage so more and more don't bother these days. All a Carfax should tell you is where to examine closer to verify proper repair if something comes back. You should still examine the rest of the car as if you never pulled a Carfax and if you do this you'll be able to spot any repairs that were done and if you can't after scrutinizing closely... well... the repairs were done well enough that you can't tell which is a good thing. Just never assume that if it looks clean or a Carfax comes back clean that nothing was ever done to it.

Also, Tesla recently starting adding a note to used cars that says if it has no reported accidents in it's history or, if it does, that it was repaired to Tesla's specifications. This is kind of nice but I would still see the previous paragraph and assume that all used cars have had work done. The nice thing is if you screen grab that photo and issues arise down the road due to repairs that Tesla said met their specifications you may have some legal recourse if things get that bad. Do your due diligence on the front end and you won't have to worry about that ugly path though.

All P85D’s have held their value not just the P85D+. Assuming it has been in an accident etc is one thing but having a car with a clean Carfax is another regardless if it was in an accident or not. 99% of buyers will only care what the Carfax shows when selling the car. So it is extremely important to have one with a clean Carfax if you want to be able to recoup as much money as possible when selling it. From someone who buys and sells cars frequently having a car even with a minor accident since Carfax goes into a lot more depth than they use too. i.e. did the car have to towed or was it able to drive after, did the airbags deploy, was their structural damage etc. Even most of these things won’t matter to the next buyer. Most buyers will only buy a car with no accidents showing on the Carfax/autocheck. Otherwise be prepared to take a hit on the value if the car doesn’t have a clean Carfax. This is just the reality.

As far as the performance of a P85D and P100DL it doesn’t matter the conditions. I’ve owned the fastest P90DL that was faster than most P100DL’s and my P85D can do almost exactly the same time 0-30mph. In fact it actually faster than most P100DL’s 0-30mph. I have never taken either one to a track, all times have been on public roads.
As far as a P85D+ and P85D there will be no gain really when selling. Now a P85 and P85+ you can expect to get a couple thousand more. Not enough people even know that the P85D+ exists but if they do you might be able to get a little extra. As far as personal enjoyment the P85D+ is significantly better at handling than the P85D. However some don’t like the stiffer suspension and would opt for one without the + suspension. But if you actually like to have fun in it and push it around corners etc the car will handle better than any other Tesla besides the new Ravens which have upgraded their suspension. Also if you like to lower your car the + suspension being stiffer will allow you to get away with it being lower.

The 3rd set of numbers down is 0-30mph. 4th is 0-60mph 1ft.
P85D 0-30 mph
8D218147-15B0-494A-95EF-400DE9249014.jpeg

P100DL 0-30 mph
752A45D9-08F2-4B21-ABAF-F46D50EC38FB.jpeg
 
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65k miles I paid $800 for 4 year maintenance
At that time they diagnosed an issue with primary charger options were $300 to swap it to slave or $2200 replace. Chose $300 car charges at 72 amps instead of 80amps.
Year later TPMS computer fails disabling the car due to flooding the CanBus. $600

$700 in parts for rotors and all new pads including parking brake, labor was DIY.

$1260 front suspension repairs.

$400 pack heater replacement, this failure disabled the car.

$220 12volt replacement, Ranger did this at my home.
$40 for a washer pump DIY labor.

Recalls on steering bolt's and airbag.

Charge port lights have gone crappy but doesn't affect function, sounds like this is $400 to fix.
One of the doorhandles LEDs is out sounds like they would want to do the whole handle $$$.

Car started out in the southwest has not been in WI the whole time.

This is all between 65-93k miles and a little over 2 years.

I have owned cars over 200k that I didn't have this much trouble with this quickly.

I wonder how many of the "nothing to fail" crowd own cars under 2yo.

Geez... I don’t like seeing this.
 
65k miles I paid $800 for 4 year maintenance
At that time they diagnosed an issue with primary charger options were $300 to swap it to slave or $2200 replace. Chose $300 car charges at 72 amps instead of 80amps.
Year later TPMS computer fails disabling the car due to flooding the CanBus. $600

$700 in parts for rotors and all new pads including parking brake, labor was DIY.

$1260 front suspension repairs.

$400 pack heater replacement, this failure disabled the car.

$220 12volt replacement, Ranger did this at my home.
$40 for a washer pump DIY labor.

Recalls on steering bolt's and airbag.

Charge port lights have gone crappy but doesn't affect function, sounds like this is $400 to fix.
One of the doorhandles LEDs is out sounds like they would want to do the whole handle $$$.

Car started out in the southwest has not been in WI the whole time.

This is all between 65-93k miles and a little over 2 years.

I have owned cars over 200k that I didn't have this much trouble with this quickly.

I wonder how many of the "nothing to fail" crowd own cars under 2yo.


what year is yours
 
FWIW:

Our fully loaded March 2015 P85 with 90k mikes was valued at about $46k by a third party valuation company after a hail damage incident. Your $44k price seems a good deal.

That said, our P85 has had the following repairs:
  • Motor replaced at about 25k miles due to whine
  • MCU replaced at 50k miles due to complete failure
  • Onboard charger replaced at about 80k miles
  • High voltage battery replaced at about 90k miles due to complete failure
  • High voltage battery replaced again at about 98k miles due to complete failure
  • Three of four door handles replaced/rebuilt
 
FWIW:

Our fully loaded March 2015 P85 with 90k mikes was valued at about $46k by a third party valuation company after a hail damage incident. Your $44k price seems a good deal.

That said, our P85 has had the following repairs:
  • Motor replaced at about 25k miles due to whine
  • MCU replaced at 50k miles due to complete failure
  • Onboard charger replaced at about 80k miles
  • High voltage battery replaced at about 90k miles due to complete failure
  • High voltage battery replaced again at about 98k miles due to complete failure
  • Three of four door handles replaced/rebuilt


I don't understand how so many people have "repeat" issues like this. Its like if your battery went bad.. you will repeatedly come back in for the same issue. Same with the motor.
 
I do not understand why 72A. Each charger is 40A. If the defective master was disabled and the slave is the master then the max should be 40A. Can you elaborate what the repair was? Thank you.

One of the chargers is "down a phase" according to the tech, not completely failed. Damaged one was the primary and I got an error every time I charged, they swapped it to the secondary position and it only delivers 32amps due to whatever failure has occured inside.

The newer version of the high-speed charger is 72A rather than the previous 40A x 2 array.

But my my car is dual 40 equipped.

what year is yours

2014 P85 VIN is 42,XXX

Tesla wouldn't give me a full history but did mention all 4 handles were done before I got it.
 
I don't understand how so many people have "repeat" issues like this. Its like if your battery went bad.. you will repeatedly come back in for the same issue. Same with the motor.


I'm not sure why the battery they gave us at 90k miles went bad at about 8k miles later. I guess there was a problem with the refurb they gave us. (I have no doubt it was a refurbished battery. I don't see them giving factory new batteries for warranty replacement at 90k miles.)
 
One of the chargers is "down a phase" according to the tech, not completely failed. Damaged one was the primary and I got an error every time I charged, they swapped it to the secondary position and it only delivers 32amps due to whatever failure has occurred inside.

Thank you. That makes sense. Likely there are 5x8A modules inside each 40A charger. I recall seeing a picture of the HVJB and there were a bunch of smaller wires going to each charger. Interesting that the charger can work with one of the 5 modules down.
 
This is the exact reason i would never own a car like this out of warranty
I used to think that as well, at first.

Let's be pessimistic and assume everything SSedan listed (plus the MCU) is going to fail, even if it doesn't.

0. Keep my P85: $0
1. Replace primary charger: ($2200)
2. Replace TPMS computer: ($600)
3. Replace brake rotors and pads: ($700)
4. Front suspension repairs: ($1260)
5. Pack heater replacement: ($400)
6. 12V replacement: ($220)
7. Washer pump, no labor: ($40)
8. Replace charge port: ($400)
9. Replace 4 door handles: ($1600)
10. Replace MCU: ($3500)
Total spent: $10,920

Now compare the alternative:

0. Sell my P85: +$40,000
1. Buy equivalent Model S (100D): $119,000
Total spent: $79,000

The equation changes slightly once the 8 year drive train warranty is up, but it's still cheaper to replace the main battery pack and DU than to replace the car. Also, there are several things I continue to appreciate about my P85 which Tesla no longer offers:

1. Rear-wheel drive performance option. (This is a personal preference; most owners would likely choose all-wheel drive.)
2. Larger frunk storage space, partly due to #1.
3. Pano roof that opens.

Just some thoughts after 5+ years of ownership. I may reconsider later after I get to drive a Model Y or a Cybertruck. ;)
 
I used to think that as well, at first.

Let's be pessimistic and assume everything SSedan listed (plus the MCU) is going to fail, even if it doesn't.

0. Keep my P85: $0
1. Replace primary charger: ($2200)
2. Replace TPMS computer: ($600)
3. Replace brake rotors and pads: ($700)
4. Front suspension repairs: ($1260)
5. Pack heater replacement: ($400)
6. 12V replacement: ($220)
7. Washer pump, no labor: ($40)
8. Replace charge port: ($400)
9. Replace 4 door handles: ($1600)
10. Replace MCU: ($3500)
Total spent: $10,920

Now compare the alternative:

0. Sell my P85: +$40,000
1. Buy equivalent Model S (100D): $119,000
Total spent: $79,000

The equation changes slightly once the 8 year drive train warranty is up, but it's still cheaper to replace the main battery pack and DU than to replace the car. Also, there are several things I continue to appreciate about my P85 which Tesla no longer offers:

1. Rear-wheel drive performance option. (This is a personal preference; most owners would likely choose all-wheel drive.)
2. Larger frunk storage space, partly due to #1.
3. Pano roof that opens.

Just some thoughts after 5+ years of ownership. I may reconsider later after I get to drive a Model Y or a Cybertruck. ;)
A P85 is more equivalent to a 75D now. Which you can now buy used, from Tesla, with a full warranty for $45k. Makes it a much better deal than repairing an out of warranty P85 (spending $10K)

i still plan to go with the used P85 from tesla though
 
A P85 is more equivalent to a 75D now. Which you can now buy used, from Tesla, with a full warranty for $45k. Makes it a much better deal than repairing an out of warranty P85 (spending $10K)
Yeah, I did have some second thoughts about using the word "equivalent" since Tesla doesn't offer the same model anymore. Is it price, range, performance, features, or some combination? I don't see a 75D as being equivalent in range (my P85 still has over 260 miles at 100%), but more equivalent in performance. P90D seems closer to equivalent on range and slightly better on performance, and it's $60K used.

The $119,000 figure I quoted for a new 100D was actually from a year ago (I was lazy and googled it rather than going through the design studio), so it may well be down to $110,000 now (and without a pano roof). Buying used is always a bit of a crap shoot, especially ones that have "previously repaired" in their description or are over 4 years old/50K miles which is only a 2-year warranty. I usually want to keep my cars for longer periods of time.

Your plan was to resell the P85 at the end of one year and get into a 100D. The cheapest used 100D on Tesla's site right now is $78,600. If you were to sell today and get your $45K back, the difference is still $33,600.

i still plan to go with the used P85 from tesla though
I fully endorse your choice. :D
 
Whoever says EVs have zero repairs is smoking some good stuff.
Is this the guy you're talking about?;)
ElonPot.jpg


While it's tough to argue that they don't have known issues I think you'd be hard pressed to find ANY car that has zero issues. Even the most reliable cars to this point have known problems and Tesla is no different. When I said EVs will be more reliable long-term I meant that it's tough to argue that hundreds of moving parts doesn't present more potential failure points than dozens of moving parts. I wasn't trying to say that EVs are flawless but I think that long-term the fear of battery packs failing at 100k or even 200k will be a distant memory once these things consistently go 500k mor more miles.
I think a more accurate statement would be that EV's have the potential to require less maintenance and repairs. That is definitely not true today, including (or maybe especially) Tesla vehicles. I think once EV's mature as a product, and produced by a company experienced in making reliable cars (hint, don't change the production parts every 2 weeks, something Elon is proud of), they will be more reliable. The other aspect of this is the vehicle complexity. As that increases, the reliability will suffer. In the old day's there wasn't much that would make you stranded with an ICE vehicle. Most of the time it was something which roadside assistance could fix for you (change your 12V battery, fill you up with gasoline, change fuel filter), at least so you could find a shop to fix it permanently. Today, especially with Tesla, the car dies, you have no remedy but to get in line at the service center, everything is computerized, cryptographically protected, etc, etc.. Just like carburetor ICE engines were easier to fix than fuel injected ones, EV's add a whole new level of complexity, so things like this can happen:
Our Tesla Model 3 Suffered a Catastrophic Failure While Parked

Some day, when EV's as a product have been perfected and manufactured with 20 year lifespan in mind (Elon, according to a recent tweet, only recently realized that cars last a lot longer than phones, so building a cell phone with wheels is a bad idea - as evidenced by all the MCU1 failures, and it's slowness due to having to run software written for newer cars), EV's will be more reliable than ICE cars. Those probably won't be Teslas, as Elon will always want to sell Beta cars, but there will be EV's which will be lower maintenance than ICE cars.
 
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The $119,000 figure I quoted for a new 100D was actually from a year ago (I was lazy and googled it rather than going through the design studio), so it may well be down to $110,000 now (and without a pano roof).
The base Long Range starts at $80k now and includes almost everything that use to be options except paint color, wheel options, interior color and full self driving. It also has 373 miles of range and does 0-60 in 3.7s.
 
The base Long Range starts at $80k now and includes almost everything that use to be options except paint color, wheel options, interior color and full self driving. It also has 373 miles of range and does 0-60 in 3.7s.
Both my car and the one @flynnstone bought have most of the available options, including Autopilot. For a new Model S, you now have to buy the FSD package in order to get "convenience features" including traffic-aware cruise control, which adds $7,000 to the price.

I went through the Tesla design studio just now to see what it would cost to replace my car with a (feature-wise) equivalent long-range non-performance or performance Model S. Note this doesn't have a pano roof, which I'm told can be ordered off-menu somehow if you know how (I don't.)

long range (100D) base 79,990
midnight silver metallic 1,500
19" slipstream wheels 1,500
black interior, light seats 1,500
FSD 7,000
total 91,490

performance (P100D) base 99,990
midnight silver metallic 1,500
19" slipstream wheels 1,500
black interior, light seats 1,500
FSD 7,000
total 111,490

So, going back to the comparison where I keep driving my out-of-warranty P85 for the next 2 years and potentially spend up to $10K on repairs: I'd spend either $51,490 or $71,490 to trade it in. I'd get extra range, but I'd be giving up the front trunk storage and probably the pano roof. (The new Model S has full unlimited supercharging again, so that part remains equal.)
 
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